Who Knows Motor Mounts????
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From: Arvada, CO
Speaking of Steeda, any reason their mounts weren't mentioned??
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ine_mounts.php
And here's their radiator support that allows the AR bar use:
http://www.steeda.com/products/light...pport_s197.php
BMR K member:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ine_mounts.php
And here's their radiator support that allows the AR bar use:
http://www.steeda.com/products/light...pport_s197.php
BMR K member:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
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The only reason why I didn't mention the Steeda Motor Mounts is B/C you can find the same mounts CHEAPER other places!!!! But for the Radiator support; that is a great piece (It seems)....
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IMHO the k-member is an awesome thing to put on and the price isnt too bad. But if you keep the stock lower control arms think twice. I personally would buy the k-member and lower control amrs with urathane bushings.
Should stiffen up the front end quite a bit, reduce weight and you can get the k-member with motor mounts already on it that drop the engine 1/2 inch. Now if I could find a radiator support that has the front sway bar mounts on it that would be sweet.
But as my budget allows, my next mods right now will be uca right away then koni yellow shocks and sway bars. I just need to find a set of springs that work with what I want to do. I dont want to drop the front at all, the rear drop would be max 1/2 inch. I dont want necesarily harder springs, as I feel the spring rate of the stockers is nice, but slightly harder would not be bad.
In any case, give sam a call.
Should stiffen up the front end quite a bit, reduce weight and you can get the k-member with motor mounts already on it that drop the engine 1/2 inch. Now if I could find a radiator support that has the front sway bar mounts on it that would be sweet.
But as my budget allows, my next mods right now will be uca right away then koni yellow shocks and sway bars. I just need to find a set of springs that work with what I want to do. I dont want to drop the front at all, the rear drop would be max 1/2 inch. I dont want necesarily harder springs, as I feel the spring rate of the stockers is nice, but slightly harder would not be bad.
In any case, give sam a call.
Also why do you think it is necessary (maybe not necessary, but RECOMMENDED) that I replace the A-arms at the same time????
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
Joined: September 23, 2008
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From: Memphis
I know BMR has had issues with the poly bushing staying together on the A-arms in anything more than a drag race application so I would not really consider that a necessity!
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From: Arvada, CO
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I COMPLETELY AGREE... I mean if it is made out of the same material; how is it not the same??? I mean maybe STEEDA's is made w/ LOVE!!!! HAHAHAHAHA
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Bullitt Member
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From: NY
When I do the k-member, I will do the lower a-arms....Sorry about the confusion... I was a bit sleepy, been doing 16hour stints at work, with the ot maybe ill have enough cash for some mods.
Reasoning is simple though, the lower a-arms go through allot of flex, and im sure bmr figured out the issues by now, they have been around for ages. The lower a-arms also weigh a bunch, with tubular ones you reduce partial unsprung weight as well as sprung weight. Not to mention the added stiffness and control.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
Reasoning is simple though, the lower a-arms go through allot of flex, and im sure bmr figured out the issues by now, they have been around for ages. The lower a-arms also weigh a bunch, with tubular ones you reduce partial unsprung weight as well as sprung weight. Not to mention the added stiffness and control.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
Last edited by jaguarking11; Dec 16, 2009 at 04:27 AM.
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When I do the k-member, I will do the lower a-arms....Sorry about the confusion... I was a bit sleepy, been doing 16hour stints at work, with the ot maybe ill have enough cash for some mods.
Reasoning is simple though, the lower a-arms go through allot of flex, and im sure bmr figured out the issues by now, they have been around for ages. The lower a-arms also weigh a bunch, with tubular ones you reduce partial unsprung weight as well as sprung weight. Not to mention the added stiffness and control.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
Reasoning is simple though, the lower a-arms go through allot of flex, and im sure bmr figured out the issues by now, they have been around for ages. The lower a-arms also weigh a bunch, with tubular ones you reduce partial unsprung weight as well as sprung weight. Not to mention the added stiffness and control.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
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From: Brew City
And in case you are serious about the BMR arms, here is a great deal on a new set... $299 shipped
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25780
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25780
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And in case you are serious about the BMR arms, here is a great deal on a new set... $299 shipped
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25780
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25780
Mach 1 Member
Joined: October 12, 2004
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Reasoning is simple though, the lower a-arms go through allot of flex, and im sure bmr figured out the issues by now, they have been around for ages. The lower a-arms also weigh a bunch, with tubular ones you reduce partial unsprung weight as well as sprung weight. Not to mention the added stiffness and control.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
As for BMR having issues with the lower a-arms I saw a thread somewhere about that. Seems they redesigned the bushings or something, but dont quote me on this. In either case, stamped a-arms is not exactly my idea of high performance. With the rad support and kmember and a-arms, the whole thing should drop around 60lb+ off the nose of this thing.
The stock arms are a good design, reasonably light, and very durable. There's a reason why the reputable *engineering* companies for road racing suspension parts haven't rushed to produce replacement arms for the S197, and the K-members are just starting to trickle into the market.
Just another opinion...
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From: Arvada, CO
We all know it was those stock A arms on your car that caused the flip and roll, right? 
Just kidding ... I wouldn't do the aftermarket K or LCAs, personally, maybe the Steeda radiator piece would be fine for a bit of weight savings, but considering the weight and G forces these pieces endure, the more mass and beefiness the better, I say. Just replace the bushings, or go all out with the Griggs SLA coil over conversion system.
http://www.griggsracing.com/index.ph...4309_4320_3060
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I don't know what I am going to do???? I guess every time I lean one way I start thinking it would be better to go the other way... MAN I AM SO TORN.....
And I don't wanna replace the Radiator support w/ the Steeda one b/c I wanna keep my Front Sway....
And I don't wanna replace the Radiator support w/ the Steeda one b/c I wanna keep my Front Sway....
Last edited by PIKE2244; Dec 17, 2009 at 09:10 AM.
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From: Brew City
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
Joined: September 23, 2008
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From: Memphis
A lot of people are running them, I have one of those sitting on the shelf as well! Steeda is a reputable company what would they stand to gain from false advertising?
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So I guess I should rephrase my question: Is it ok to run the Replacement radiator support every day??? My car is a DD so I need it to hold up to everyday abuse!!!!!
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From: San Diego
Trust me when I say "I know 1st hand Steeda products are top notch", every single piece of Suspension components on my car are Steeda...
So I guess I should rephrase my question: Is it ok to run the Replacement radiator support every day??? My car is a DD so I need it to hold up to everyday abuse!!!!!
So I guess I should rephrase my question: Is it ok to run the Replacement radiator support every day??? My car is a DD so I need it to hold up to everyday abuse!!!!!