I have a couple of quick question's that I hope can be answered. I'm gonna be getting a supercharger sometime in the spring once I get my tax return. I've narrowed it down to the standard Whipple and Whipple H.O. My suspension is stock except for the Eibach Prokit springs. I also have 20x10 wheels in the rear with 275/35/20 Nitto 555 tires. My car's gonna stay on the street and I don't have any plans to take it on the track. Will my current setup hold up to the torque I'd be putting down? How much much wheel hop will I get?

I've heard on other forums that the H.O. kit is a ticking time bomb for the 3V, and that anything more than 415 RWHP is overkill for stock internals. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks, Nick.

 

The LCA itself and UCA bushes will interchange with the GT. These are stiffer than the GT and should provide better control than stock. Shourt of that you will have to spend even more money on a different set up all together.

I think time will tell if the 3V can standup to the 10 psi intercooled kit. Its at a deffinite disadvantage with non forgerd pistons, rods and crank.

I think you are better off though with the intercooler and lower boost, than w/o the intercooler as well if you want to keep it tuned down. It will be easier on the engine under load than non-intercooled only.

 

I've heard a lot about how the intercooled version is better. Other than more HP, why is the cooler needed? Is it because the screws are turning faster and heat builds up? Does it cool the internals?

 

Traction?? With a twin screw on street tires? Good luck.

 

i'm yet to find a definitive answer for this, as so far everyone i've asked from Whipple, to Ford Racing, and other vendors/installers/owners, seem to indicate that the H.O Whipple at 10PSI/475rwhp is just fine for the stock internals of a manual transmission GT..

i'm planning on getting the HO kit myself, but i'm seriously lost as to whether it will fry my engine and tranny shortly after

 

****. Now you guys got me worried! My car is in the shop having a HO Whipple kit with 10psi installed as we speak! Adam at ST Motorsports, who is doing the work, insists that it's safe with a conservative tune.

 

Relax, there are a lot of naysayers out there. Is it good for the motor? No, but you should have no problems as long as you don't go crazy with boost, or the tune. I put the HO Whipple on with no fear, but i am aware of the dangers. Oh, and about traction,

 

your motor will be safe with the conservative tune from ford racing! Don't listen to everyone else's woe's and worries!

 

OK cool, thanks guys. I don't mean to be paranoid, it's just that the Stang is my daily driver and I'd hate to blow something up. In any case, I'll report back after I pick 'er up tomorrow night! Woo hoo !!!

 

Yeah, yeah, I know. But seriously, what good will 475 RWHP be if I'm stuck at a light with my wheels spinning? Will I be able to launch without doing a 360?

 

The 475rwhp won't have much effect on you leaving a light... you'll only see that power level at 6000+ rpm. But, the 400+rwtq will prevent you from leaving hard from a light.

Personally, I've oftened wondered how many people actually realize the major traction issues they will have on the street once they get blown. Unless someone has bigazz sticky tires and has kept the 3.31 or 3.55 gears, it's going to be really tough to hook most (if not all) of the time. My 275/50-17 tires are basically worthless below 30mph if I stand on the throttle. I'll be switching to 325/45-17 M&H drag radials on the street real soon. Hopefully, those will work better than my Nittos do.

 

As for it being safe... the simple fact is these cars haven't been out long enough to know what kind of stress the stock rods will endure over the long haul.

Beleive me I've been doing nothing but research for the last six months about this very issue. The general consensus is you SHOULD be safe up to 450 rwhp on stock internals.

Most will tell you anything over 450 is starting to push into the danger zone on stock internals. But the fact is your motor could let go at 400 rwhp if for whatever reason you have a rod that isn't quite as strong as it should be because of manufacturing defects or you have a bad tune... etc. etc.

These motors will absolutely not forgive any detonation because the tolerances are too tight... but most of the stories of blown motors I've read had no signs whatsoever of detonation. But most of those motors were pushing past 450rwhp.

One guy (Don I believe right?) had his let go because the honeycomb from the catalytic converter collapsed while he was on the dyno and it fried the block. That happened at ST Motorsports... but obviously this wasn't a tune issue... just bad luck.

Basically if you want to use a blower you have to realize that it is very possible your motor will go.

Definate? No.

Probable? On a safe tune no.

Possible? Yes... like many have told me, "If you want to play be prepared to pay."

If I had the cash I'd build my motor with a forged assembly... and I still might at the end of the day... but I don't know.

Don't mean to scare you... just being as honest as I can be from all the information I've gathered.

 

No problem, man. I appreciate your candor. Do you have any idea what a motor build runs? Rods, crank, etc. ?

 

The major cost of building a motor is the labor.

From a couple quotes that I've gotten they're both around the same ballpark and I'm looking at at least 6k.

That's about $3,300 for forged cobra crank, Manley forged rods, Diamond or Manley forged pistons, file fit plasma moly ringset, ARP main studs, new oil pump and pick up, new rear seal plate, computerized balancing and assembly.

The rest is pulling the motor and putting it back in.

 

You'll be looking around $1800-$4000 for Forged rotating assy + labor... around $7K and you have something. Or DIY and save.

Your engine should be ok with the 10psi and safe tune... just be precise with your shifts. Good luck!

 

So I should be good with the 415 RWHP, 6psi model? I only want the power to mess around on the freeway and the once in awhile drag with a Vette.

 

Hey, no one's answered my intercooler question. Why are they needed?

 

I Don't know much about boost yet, but I'm pretty sure that cooler air produces more power. Compressing air would create heat (I assume that temperature rises with pressure?) so it would be a good idea to have the incoming air as cool as possible before the air gets compresed, for the best results. I don't really think the intercooler has much to do with anything else but making more power. It might make more aggressive tuning possible (less chance of detonation maybe?) but I'm not sure. Those are just my guesses anyway.

 

See my answer that you quoted... that's the most honest opinion I can give you from what I've gathered.

As for the intercooler Error is correct. A colder air charge allows you to increase timing and produce more HP. Also the colder air helps to prevent detonation and is easier on your engine... less heat... less stress.

An intercooler is always a good idea.

 

Hey you wannabe Supercharger guys,
Here is a little advise from an "older" motorhead about supercharging these "stock" 3V's. Always buy an intercoolered version. It is always the safest. If you say you can't afford it you probably should not do it. Intercooled is always the best and back off the boost and get a safe tune. You do not have to run 10 or 12 psi on an intercooled supercharger. 6 to 8 PSI will work just fine with the proper tune. It is pretty simple really. Seriously boosted car should have forged internals or "Pay your money and take your chances". I speak from experience. 9 lb non intercoolered on a 4V 96 Cobra without forged rods and pistons didn't work very long for me. Just don't push it and above all get a good tune.
Scott