Wow, what a difference. Installed the steeda lower control arms today and if you are looking to cure wheel hop, do it

After installing the arms, my takeoffs were as smooth as silk, not even a small bit of hop.

Installation was *extremely* easy, took me all of 30 minutes or so, and I am not an experienced mechanic in any way, I am learning as I go. If you want to cure your wheel hop, get some lower control arms, they are well worth the money!

 

I just installed mine too and they really helped~!..great mod

 

I told you so, I told you so . . . . . . . . .

The Boss Hog

 

Hey guys, I have the lowers on the way now. I am tired of the wheel hop. How does the e-brake cable un-hook,do you need any special tools. thanks Driver

 

No special tools. I used needle nose pliers just to grab the retainer clip. The clip comes off real easy. Then you just unhook the cable. Easier than you could be thinking.

 

I told you so, I told you so . . . . . . . . .

The Boss Hog
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I told you so, I told you so . . . . . . . . .

The Boss Hog
[/b][/quote]


Yes, yes you did

 

Hey guys, I am planning on getting control arms as well. Did you get the billet or the steel arms. Thanks

 

I purchased part # 555-4416 Steeda street & race lower trailing arms

 

Is there any change at all in the handling or ride, other than getting rid of the wheel hop?

 

What about the road noise with these and are they worth the money to you?

 

There's no difference in ride or handling or road noise-atleast to me. To me, the only purpose was to remove the wheel hop and if you've felt the wheel hop, you would say that they were worth every penny!

 

I agree, no noticeable change in ride or noise. Worth every penny if you ask me, they completely removed all wheel hop, takeoffs are a smooth as silk now.

 

OK I am going to trust you in this and write the check. Do instructions tell the correct was to adjust them? Is there not something like penion angle an issue? Why not just replace the bushings in the stock arms? Did you also reflash to remove the torque control so you could light up the tires? Thanks for all !
I hope I ROLL ON

 

Any reason to get the adjustable ones versus the non-adjustable ones? I'm looking at the BMR fabrication ones for $120 a pair.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm

Is the adjustability necessary to dial out wheel hop if needed? I notice the pricey billet Steeda LCA's are not adjustable, either.

 

If you get the Billit ones, they are stock length. That's what I have and it removed all the wheel hop. I ran 5 times at the track tonight and not a drop of hop. I'm not exactly sure what the purpose would be to have adjustable ones in this application. I think that's why Steeda made their purdy one at stock length.

 

Hmmmm, I think I know what my next mod is.....

 

Why not just replace the bushongs in the ends of the stock ones?

 

You could probably do just that. It might be more laborsom to do so and I'm not sure if doing so will remove the hop 100%. If you climb under your car and look at the oem arm, it's not quite as heavy duty as any of the aftermarket arms. It would be much easier to replace them, I'm sure. I would hate to replace the bushings, and it not cure the issue.

 

I honestly have no idea why you would need adjustability in the arms, i'm not that versed in rear end geometry or suspension. As for the replacing of just the bushings, I think the stock arms have some flex in them as well, they just don't seem as sturdy as the upgraded ones, so I don't know if just replacing the bushings would cure the hop.

From everything I have read and heard, BMR and Steeda are both quality products and you wont go wrong with either choice.