What tunes should I order with cai?
#21
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Originally Posted by Agent MOO
I picked up a TB because I found it for a great deal used, I don't think I gained any power but the improved response is fun. I don't know what the emissions testing is like in your area, but going with an offroad midpipe will get you some quick & cheap gains. Just don't snap those exhaust manifold bolts getting it on if you DIY
4.10 gears are a great mod too but you definitely have to take that to a pro.
I guess ill skip on the TB as well. Also I know this varies from region to region, and shop to shop. But how much did you guys pay for your gears to be installed? Just a ballpark number so I can get a feel.
#22
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Originally Posted by tu3218
I live in Baltimore Maryland. Ill have to look it up but yeah, the midpipe will also give some better sound right?
I guess ill skip on the TB as well. Also I know this varies from region to region, and shop to shop. But how much did you guys pay for your gears to be installed? Just a ballpark number so I can get a feel.
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Originally Posted by muscledom
Yea you'll def get more sound. As far as the gears go, depending on what you have done (ie full rebuild, ring and pinion only) it can cost up to like $750. Thats about what I paid to have everything done except rebuilding the trac lok
#24
It was mixed in with other work so I'm not sure how much was specifically for the rear end, but I think about $500. I didn't rebuild the trak lok, and then when that went kablooey I had to do the work over again.
#25
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Originally Posted by tu3218
Woahhh lol more then I thought. That'll in a year for that after I graduate an get a good job. Any other ideas or is everything expensive from here? Haha
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Cheapest next step, since you now have a tuner, would be to go to jegs.com and buy their off road h pipe. I think it's like $160 and you could probably do it your self with some jack stands. You'll gain hp, throttle response, and sound. But basically everything that's good ain't cheap. You can **** away a bunch of money on **** that's gonna be a waste and do basically nothing for you. Another good buy would be a pro 5.0 shifter, which is frequently recommended by experts in FF&MM magazine. A good set of mufflers would be nice. Don't really do anything besides sound cool. Lots of people get pulleys, I've heard mixed reviews. From here on out you're gonna find out that big buys that give good power (besides blowers) reduce low end and gain high end. If you just wanna do rolling burnouts you probably won't like most mods for for staying NA. If you go to the track then you'll love em. My advice would be to pin down what you want out of your car and start creating a build list. That way you don't end up throwing away money.
#27
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Originally Posted by tu3218
yeah good points. I have a pypes bomb axle back exhaust and it gives my stang soo much better sound. So yeah, I'm thinking a mid pipe sounds down my alley. Especially if it gives a little bit of everything. But does that affect emissions?
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Originally Posted by muscledom
Yea you won't have cats anymore lol. If you have to pass tests then you're ****ed. It's gonna be pretty ****in loud. You'll basically have straight pipes haha
#29
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Originally Posted by tu3218
Oh **** haha. Nvm then on that. Though that sounds amazing an would love to hear that sound. I'll probably just get a Hurst shifter next.
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#31
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Originally Posted by Agent MOO
I have the Hurst shifter and I love it, but it did still have the 2>3 miss issue until I put in stiffer engine mounts
#32
No doubt. Don't get me wrong, hurst makes a great shifter. It looks great too. But as far as performance goes, pro 5.0 is probably the most recommended shifter that I'm aware of. Every time I open a mustang mag and find an article about building a standard trans they recommend using a pro 5.0. I mean if you wanted too you could run a hurst stick and ball. I hammer the **** out of it and she never says no.
Oh and look what showed up in the mail today
#33
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Originally Posted by Agent MOO
Yeah the looks are half of why I like the sifter so much and that's something that you can change on any shifter. I'd recommend going with something else if you've got the money since the hurst won't solve all the shifting issues. I went with it because it fit my budget when I had to pull the tranny out to do the clutch.
Oh and look what showed up in the mail today
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Originally Posted by muscledom
No doubt. Don't get me wrong, hurst makes a great shifter. It looks great too. But as far as performance goes, pro 5.0 is probably the most recommended shifter that I'm aware of. Every time I open a mustang mag and find an article about building a standard trans they recommend using a pro 5.0. I mean if you wanted too you could run a hurst stick and ball. I hammer the **** out of it and she never says no.
#35
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Originally Posted by tu3218
What do you mean run a Hurst stick and ball? I ask because my dad has a Hurst shifter in his car and I Dont remember him spending $200+ on it. So is it just the look of the Hurst shifter? I don't know, I probably sound dumb but yeah lol But his definitely has quicker an shorter shifts so maybe it is the real deal.
#36
What do you mean run a Hurst stick and ball? I ask because my dad has a Hurst shifter in his car and I Dont remember him spending $200+ on it. So is it just the look of the Hurst shifter? I don't know, I probably sound dumb but yeah lol But his definitely has quicker an shorter shifts so maybe it is the real deal.
Anyways a lot of the shifters have the two bolt connections on the base that can accept handles like this:
Last edited by Agent MOO; 9/13/12 at 06:50 PM.
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You can change the stick and ball out on lots of shifters. The pro 5.0 is no different but it's set up to run the stock **** out of the box. I have a pistol grip. But its more about the shifter than the stick and ball. Just look up a pro 5.0 on eBay. You'll see all the different parts and how the stick is separate from the shifter. You can get all kinds of different ****. You can't change the stick on a stock shifter so your dads is real. Look up a bunch of aftermarket shifters, you'll see what I mean. Mainly the billet aluminum shifters
I bought the competition plus ($190 at AM) and my shifts are much quicker/shorter than stock. If you're racing it though or just shifting high you can get locked out of third, same as stock because the transmission rotates with torque so that the remotely mounted shifter misses the gate. I don't know all the mechanical details, but I believe the design of the 5.0 addresses this in its design.
Anyways a lot of the shifters have the two bolt connections on the base that can accept handles like this:
Anyways a lot of the shifters have the two bolt connections on the base that can accept handles like this:
That's why I wasn't sure about my dad's because I don't remember him having anything that extravagant. But maybe I just don't remember right.
#38
yeah I'll have to look them up. The difference though when I drive my dad's car is insane though. So much easier to chirp the tires going from 1st to 2nd.
yeah, that's exactly how my dad's look. Like when I look at them on AM, I see larger kits such as this http://www.americanmuscle.com/hurst-shifter-0509gt.html.
That's why I wasn't sure about my dad's because I don't remember him having anything that extravagant. But maybe I just don't remember right.
yeah, that's exactly how my dad's look. Like when I look at them on AM, I see larger kits such as this http://www.americanmuscle.com/hurst-shifter-0509gt.html.
That's why I wasn't sure about my dad's because I don't remember him having anything that extravagant. But maybe I just don't remember right.
#39
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Originally Posted by tu3218
yeah I'll have to look them up. The difference though when I drive my dad's car is insane though. So much easier to chirp the tires going from 1st to 2nd.