What Mod's NOT to do if you were to run a S/C in the future!
11/28/09, 01:42 AM
#1
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What Mod's NOT to do if you were to run a S/C in the future!
I hope there isn't a similar topic but rather than to look for posts here and there this is good to gather everyones feedback in one thread for future S/Ced Stangers!
11/28/09, 02:49 AM
#2
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From what i have seen, Underdrive pullies and CMCV delete plates (or plugs for 08+) are useless for supercharged cars but there are some exceptions. If you are running a roush TVS supercharger and you want to keep low boost numbers then keep the pullies but Delete plates are removed when the new supercharger is installed unless you run a vortech, paxton, or procharger. Also cold air intakes are not used unless you run a saleen supercharger that has the throttle body in almost stock location.
Last edited by RedDragon777; 11/28/09 at 02:51 AM.
11/28/09, 04:34 AM
#3
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Lot depends upon how you intend to use vehicle.....most folk have horsepower goals when they slap on forced induction, then there is the minority that have ET goals. HP goals are easier to achieve and way cheaper. How do you imagine using your new empowered mustang?
It's great if you can set out goals and a plan for your car. So many of us mod and then have to unmod just to remod, as goals change.
It's great if you can set out goals and a plan for your car. So many of us mod and then have to unmod just to remod, as goals change.
Last edited by forensicsteve; 11/28/09 at 05:01 AM.
11/28/09, 06:10 AM
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I had no use for my CAI, tuner & tunes, strut tower brace, and aftermarket hood. If you want an supercharger, I think it is best to save up and go that route first and do other mods later. The CAI is obvious. A tuner is included with your new supercharger and typcially they will not give you a credit for it. I bought a Whipple, so the strut brace no longer fit. These parts were not a big deal for me. My dad has a GT as well and I sent the parts to him. My big disappointment was the hood. I had seen the hood with a Whipple, but did not realize that Mustang had lowered motor mounts and K member. A used aftermarket hood isn't worth much, so I ended up hanging mine on the garage wall. It looks good there, but not as good as it did on my Mustang........
11/28/09, 09:39 AM
#6
Legacy Supercharged Tms Member
All of the advice so far has been excellent and I think you should take it to heart. Just to expand on each, here's my experience: RedDragon's points regarding the underdrive pullies and CMCV delete's are right on target. I learned to sell and buy on eBay because of these exact installs. Forensicsteve speaks from experience for sure. I've read his posts on other boards and there's no way on God's green earth could I afford the mods and makeover's he's done to his beast! Between Forensicsteve and Modaddict, I've gotten quite an education. Goals do, in fact, change. My takeaway from his experience is that I would first determine whether my goal today was street/strip, drag or autocross. Buy the right suspension for that activity or you'll be back to revisit that almost immediately - all that power is useless if you can't put it to the ground. Then move to the driveline and replace the driveshaft if your goal is street/strip or drag. Now you're ready to tackle the powertrain. And that's where all the fun (and real costs) start. Like Pike2244, I'm just generalizing from my own experience. Good luck.
11/28/09, 04:15 PM
#8
Depends on if you are talking about a Centri (Paxton, Vortech), a Twin Screw (Saleen, etc.) or the newer ones like the Roush TVS, Edelbrock, etc.
Personally early on I knew I would be going with the Saleen and new that I would not be doing delete plates or underdrive pulleys as I would have to undo them in the future. These aren't big ticket items, but I saw no reason to do the work twice.
I wasn't as lucky with teh CAI. But those are easy to sell here. I got a C&L Racer with a Xcal2 and tunes from Brenspeed and when it came time to tune my Saleen SC on the dyno, I needed a different CAI, but I was able to keep my Xcal2 as my tuner. I sold C&L for a decent price and all was good.
So from personal experience the way I did it was...CAI and tune, 4.10 gears (which because I already had the Xcal2 meant I could change the parameters and get my speedo to work correctly), then I went with an axle back mufflers, the LT headers and x-pipe, I upgraded my radiator and I went with HTO spark plugs knowing that I would shortly be getting the Saleen SC. I didn't have to undo any of these items when I installed the blower.
It's fairly standard that most of the superchargers need the underdrive pulleys removed. The Roush TVS can work with the underdrive when setup that way, but I have since seen a thread from someone in England that is running the Roush TVS without the underdrive pulleys and instead had a custom machined blower pulley made to reduce the boost.
With the centris you can keep the CMCV delete plates or plugs. As a matter of fact the butterfly valves will be turned off in the tune anyway, so you need to remove them if IIRC.
I do remember now that I could no longer use my strut tower brace with my Saleen. So I did by that and could no longer use it. That was a bummer.
Personally early on I knew I would be going with the Saleen and new that I would not be doing delete plates or underdrive pulleys as I would have to undo them in the future. These aren't big ticket items, but I saw no reason to do the work twice.
I wasn't as lucky with teh CAI. But those are easy to sell here. I got a C&L Racer with a Xcal2 and tunes from Brenspeed and when it came time to tune my Saleen SC on the dyno, I needed a different CAI, but I was able to keep my Xcal2 as my tuner. I sold C&L for a decent price and all was good.
So from personal experience the way I did it was...CAI and tune, 4.10 gears (which because I already had the Xcal2 meant I could change the parameters and get my speedo to work correctly), then I went with an axle back mufflers, the LT headers and x-pipe, I upgraded my radiator and I went with HTO spark plugs knowing that I would shortly be getting the Saleen SC. I didn't have to undo any of these items when I installed the blower.
It's fairly standard that most of the superchargers need the underdrive pulleys removed. The Roush TVS can work with the underdrive when setup that way, but I have since seen a thread from someone in England that is running the Roush TVS without the underdrive pulleys and instead had a custom machined blower pulley made to reduce the boost.
With the centris you can keep the CMCV delete plates or plugs. As a matter of fact the butterfly valves will be turned off in the tune anyway, so you need to remove them if IIRC.
I do remember now that I could no longer use my strut tower brace with my Saleen. So I did by that and could no longer use it. That was a bummer.
11/28/09, 05:24 PM
#9
Depends on if you are talking about a Centri (Paxton, Vortech), a Twin Screw (Saleen, etc.) or the newer ones like the Roush TVS, Edelbrock, etc.
Personally early on I knew I would be going with the Saleen and new that I would not be doing delete plates or underdrive pulleys as I would have to undo them in the future. These aren't big ticket items, but I saw no reason to do the work twice.
I wasn't as lucky with teh CAI. But those are easy to sell here. I got a C&L Racer with a Xcal2 and tunes from Brenspeed and when it came time to tune my Saleen SC on the dyno, I needed a different CAI, but I was able to keep my Xcal2 as my tuner. I sold C&L for a decent price and all was good.
So from personal experience the way I did it was...CAI and tune, 4.10 gears (which because I already had the Xcal2 meant I could change the parameters and get my speedo to work correctly), then I went with an axle back mufflers, the LT headers and x-pipe, I upgraded my radiator and I went with HTO spark plugs knowing that I would shortly be getting the Saleen SC. I didn't have to undo any of these items when I installed the blower.
It's fairly standard that most of the superchargers need the underdrive pulleys removed. The Roush TVS can work with the underdrive when setup that way, but I have since seen a thread from someone in England that is running the Roush TVS without the underdrive pulleys and instead had a custom machined blower pulley made to reduce the boost.
With the centris you can keep the CMCV delete plates or plugs. As a matter of fact the butterfly valves will be turned off in the tune anyway, so you need to remove them if IIRC.
I do remember now that I could no longer use my strut tower brace with my Saleen. So I did by that and could no longer use it. That was a bummer.
Personally early on I knew I would be going with the Saleen and new that I would not be doing delete plates or underdrive pulleys as I would have to undo them in the future. These aren't big ticket items, but I saw no reason to do the work twice.
I wasn't as lucky with teh CAI. But those are easy to sell here. I got a C&L Racer with a Xcal2 and tunes from Brenspeed and when it came time to tune my Saleen SC on the dyno, I needed a different CAI, but I was able to keep my Xcal2 as my tuner. I sold C&L for a decent price and all was good.
So from personal experience the way I did it was...CAI and tune, 4.10 gears (which because I already had the Xcal2 meant I could change the parameters and get my speedo to work correctly), then I went with an axle back mufflers, the LT headers and x-pipe, I upgraded my radiator and I went with HTO spark plugs knowing that I would shortly be getting the Saleen SC. I didn't have to undo any of these items when I installed the blower.
It's fairly standard that most of the superchargers need the underdrive pulleys removed. The Roush TVS can work with the underdrive when setup that way, but I have since seen a thread from someone in England that is running the Roush TVS without the underdrive pulleys and instead had a custom machined blower pulley made to reduce the boost.
With the centris you can keep the CMCV delete plates or plugs. As a matter of fact the butterfly valves will be turned off in the tune anyway, so you need to remove them if IIRC.
I do remember now that I could no longer use my strut tower brace with my Saleen. So I did by that and could no longer use it. That was a bummer.
11/28/09, 05:43 PM
#10
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maybe it was mentioned and i overlooked but how about cams? shouldnt you wait to see if you go with a s/c so you can pick the proper grind that will work well with the supercharger.
11/28/09, 05:56 PM
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On the high end of things, if you build an engine with forged internals (which is recommended over 450 rwhp), the compression ratio you choose to build into it will depend on whether you plan to be naturally aspirated or will use forced induction. NA, you want a high CR. FI, you want a low CR. Mine is 9.1:1 with my 15 psi Vortech setup.
11/29/09, 02:17 AM
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Goals do, in fact, change. My takeaway from his experience is that I would first determine whether my goal today was street/strip, drag or autocross. Buy the right suspension for that activity or you'll be back to revisit that almost immediately - all that power is useless if you can't put it to the ground. Then move to the driveline and replace the driveshaft if your goal is street/strip or drag. Now you're ready to tackle the powertrain. And that's where all the fun (and real costs) start. Like Pike2244, I'm just generalizing from my own experience. Good luck.
Final Question which is better Steeda BMR or Billet?
Last edited by anteyeiabazele; 11/29/09 at 02:19 AM.
11/29/09, 10:11 AM
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The OP really has not come across yet with how far he wants to take modding. Mate of mine running high 11s with a KB had lowered his stang by 1.5 inches maybe. Looked really good....nice aggressive stance. Then decided to go for 10s. First thing he did was raise it back up.
Not everybody wants a 10s ride and for good reason. It's expensive to get there, cost even more to keep it there, and there's definitely a trade-off between 1/4 mile times and street driveability, comfort etc. We put an unholy and unnatural amount of strain/stress on our car and a good day at the track is when you can drive the thing back onto the trailer without having to use the winch.
Not everybody wants a 10s ride and for good reason. It's expensive to get there, cost even more to keep it there, and there's definitely a trade-off between 1/4 mile times and street driveability, comfort etc. We put an unholy and unnatural amount of strain/stress on our car and a good day at the track is when you can drive the thing back onto the trailer without having to use the winch.
11/30/09, 05:50 AM
#18
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Just wondering for good suspension if i should get both UCA & LCA double adjusted! Where i drive roads can get very bumpy and car fishtails!
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