what does meziere waterpump help with?
#1
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what does meziere waterpump help with?
is there a problem with the steeda pulleys that the pump goes out or something. i see alot of people getting the meziere waterpump. what does it help with. good to have whether you have aftermarket pulleys or not? any info would be appreciated. thanks!
#5
Super Boss Lawman Member
#6
any details you can share? isn't it good for 9-10hp, less load on the engine..? i was thinking about getting one when i do steeda's udp..
#7
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Well it reduces the parasitic losses off the crank shaft. If the drive motor burns up you are toast until you can replace it .... something you can't just buy at any dealer or parts house.
The car still has to generate electric energy to run it ... that comes from the alternator driven by the crank shaft ... more parasitic losses again.
Its a useful drag racing mod if the class rules allows it, because the battery can drive it for that 10 - 13 second run.
The car still has to generate electric energy to run it ... that comes from the alternator driven by the crank shaft ... more parasitic losses again.
Its a useful drag racing mod if the class rules allows it, because the battery can drive it for that 10 - 13 second run.
#8
With the pulley combination, it's only good for 3HP maybe 5 HP tops.
It WILL frey your alternator with this combo. I'm on my third one. That extra draw of 15 constant amps is taxing with you have UDPs on. I estimate this mod has cost me $1500 with all the damage it did. Oh and I overheated twice because the water pump relay failed, add up those tow truck bills. It doesn't keep your car much cooler, it does a little not much. Sure you can run the water pump at the track, but it will kill your stock battery, prepare to buy yourself a $200 optima battery.
This mod is only good if it is a track and/or weekend car. Not good for an everyday driver. If you have a S/C it might be worth it. For a daily driver N/A car, spend the cash on an Aluminum driveshaft. Not worth it for 3HP
It WILL frey your alternator with this combo. I'm on my third one. That extra draw of 15 constant amps is taxing with you have UDPs on. I estimate this mod has cost me $1500 with all the damage it did. Oh and I overheated twice because the water pump relay failed, add up those tow truck bills. It doesn't keep your car much cooler, it does a little not much. Sure you can run the water pump at the track, but it will kill your stock battery, prepare to buy yourself a $200 optima battery.
This mod is only good if it is a track and/or weekend car. Not good for an everyday driver. If you have a S/C it might be worth it. For a daily driver N/A car, spend the cash on an Aluminum driveshaft. Not worth it for 3HP
#9
dustindu4's had some issues but I think he's in the minority. I've had one on my normally aspirated daily driver since September 07 with the original Ford supplied battery AND alternator and have not had a lick of trouble.
Maybe dustin's daily drive is really short and that helped to destroy his alternators/batteries. Maybe he added a few other toys that are also draining the power. Maybe his only luck is getting out of traffic tickets and not with Mezier water pumps.
The power draw is minimal and the parasitic loss from creating the extra amps is over-shadowed by freeing up the belt driven parasitic loss. The result is a slightly snappier response to the throttle. Also, the electric pump flows the same rate constantly, irrespective of your engine RPMs. Great for sitting in traffic or in the staging lanes at the track.
I wired my pump to run with the key on (engine does not need to be running). At a September autocross event, I left the water pump running AND the interior heater fans on full blast to help cool my car down between sessions. The pump and interior heater fans ran for 20 to 30 minutes with out the engine running and my car started right up when I got back in and turned the key to start.
Could the pump motor fail, sure it could. So could a stock belt-driven water pump. The only benefits of a stock pump are that a stock replacement pump would be easier to find locally and when the belt driven pump fails it usually gives you some warning by leaking for a while before it finally gives up the ghost. You can always drop the stock pump back in if the electric pump fails just as easily as replacing the stock pump with a stock in the event a stock pump fails (Who's on first?).
Nothing against aluminum driveshafts because I want to get one of them as well but I've seen and read more issues related to aluminum driveshafts (vibration, breakage, contactwith floor/aftermarket shifters/other underbody parts on lowered cars, etc) than with electric water pumps and the waterpumps can be had a price cheaper that an aluminum driveshaft to the tune of 1/4 to 1/2 the cost, depending on manufacturer.
My install and results here...
http://www.nextgenmusclecars.com/for...ead.php?t=2424
Maybe dustin's daily drive is really short and that helped to destroy his alternators/batteries. Maybe he added a few other toys that are also draining the power. Maybe his only luck is getting out of traffic tickets and not with Mezier water pumps.
The power draw is minimal and the parasitic loss from creating the extra amps is over-shadowed by freeing up the belt driven parasitic loss. The result is a slightly snappier response to the throttle. Also, the electric pump flows the same rate constantly, irrespective of your engine RPMs. Great for sitting in traffic or in the staging lanes at the track.
I wired my pump to run with the key on (engine does not need to be running). At a September autocross event, I left the water pump running AND the interior heater fans on full blast to help cool my car down between sessions. The pump and interior heater fans ran for 20 to 30 minutes with out the engine running and my car started right up when I got back in and turned the key to start.
Could the pump motor fail, sure it could. So could a stock belt-driven water pump. The only benefits of a stock pump are that a stock replacement pump would be easier to find locally and when the belt driven pump fails it usually gives you some warning by leaking for a while before it finally gives up the ghost. You can always drop the stock pump back in if the electric pump fails just as easily as replacing the stock pump with a stock in the event a stock pump fails (Who's on first?).
Nothing against aluminum driveshafts because I want to get one of them as well but I've seen and read more issues related to aluminum driveshafts (vibration, breakage, contactwith floor/aftermarket shifters/other underbody parts on lowered cars, etc) than with electric water pumps and the waterpumps can be had a price cheaper that an aluminum driveshaft to the tune of 1/4 to 1/2 the cost, depending on manufacturer.
My install and results here...
http://www.nextgenmusclecars.com/for...ead.php?t=2424
#10
My alternator died like clockwork every 20k miles. If I'm putting 20k miles a year on my car then there's no short commutes. You have a utility for the water pump since you autocross, someone who doesnt race has no need for it
#11
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
dustindu4's had some issues but I think he's in the minority. I've had one on my normally aspirated daily driver since September 07 with the original Ford supplied battery AND alternator and have not had a lick of trouble.
Nothing against aluminum driveshafts because I want to get one of them as well but I've seen and read more issues related to aluminum driveshafts (vibration, breakage, contactwith floor/aftermarket shifters/other underbody parts on lowered cars, etc) than with electric water pumps and the waterpumps can be had a price cheaper that an aluminum driveshaft to the tune of 1/4 to 1/2 the cost, depending on manufacturer.
My install and results here...
http://www.nextgenmusclecars.com/for...ead.php?t=2424
Nothing against aluminum driveshafts because I want to get one of them as well but I've seen and read more issues related to aluminum driveshafts (vibration, breakage, contactwith floor/aftermarket shifters/other underbody parts on lowered cars, etc) than with electric water pumps and the waterpumps can be had a price cheaper that an aluminum driveshaft to the tune of 1/4 to 1/2 the cost, depending on manufacturer.
My install and results here...
http://www.nextgenmusclecars.com/for...ead.php?t=2424
Also, tons of people have aluminum or composite drive shafts compared to very few with electric water pumps. I would guess that percentage wise there are a lot fewer DS problems than electric water pumps.
#12
I was thinking about this mod. In addition to Dustin, everyone outside of the Mustang community I talked to thought I was nuts switching to an electric water pump.
Maybe I'll scratch it off my X-Mas list.
Maybe I'll scratch it off my X-Mas list.
#13
Cobra Member
#14
karman, well no, I don't expect my 2 months to trump 2 years but Dustin is nearly the only one I hear constantly chiming in to every e-H2O inquiry touting the alternator problem while running an e-H2O pump. Even with all of his problems, he's still running the e-H2O pump, at least according to his signature. If I had that many problems and believed it was the e-H2O pump's fault, I would have switched back to a stock-style belt driven pump long ago.
Mezier publishes an 11 - 12 amp draw under normal use and indicates a life expectancy of the pump for 3000 hours. They flow a constant 55 GPM.
I'm just trying to balance the comments with my 2cents.
The drive shaft is still a good choice, like I said, I'll add one of them to the pile-o-upgrades eventually as well.
Mezier publishes an 11 - 12 amp draw under normal use and indicates a life expectancy of the pump for 3000 hours. They flow a constant 55 GPM.
I'm just trying to balance the comments with my 2cents.
The drive shaft is still a good choice, like I said, I'll add one of them to the pile-o-upgrades eventually as well.
#15
Most people who use this mod aren't here on this forum anymore, hence why no other chime ins. In case you haven't noticed there are too many newbie discussions here
On another forum I am on there are several others with the same problem
I only kept the water pump installed because the last alternator I bought is an aftermarket 200 amp alternator which I hope will cure the problem. If I had to start over again I WOULD NOT go this route
On another forum I am on there are several others with the same problem
I only kept the water pump installed because the last alternator I bought is an aftermarket 200 amp alternator which I hope will cure the problem. If I had to start over again I WOULD NOT go this route
#16
Legacy TMS Member
I had one and it actually helped once. My serpetine belt snapped while driving. The pump kept going to keep things cool while I limped home.
But then, a wire leading to the pump got caught and cut the power to the pump and shut the pump off while driving. The temp shot up pretty quick. I figured that was a sign to not use the pump. I took mine out and it has been sitting on my shelf ever since.
But I have no long term experience with it. My car is a weekend / low mileage car.
But then, a wire leading to the pump got caught and cut the power to the pump and shut the pump off while driving. The temp shot up pretty quick. I figured that was a sign to not use the pump. I took mine out and it has been sitting on my shelf ever since.
But I have no long term experience with it. My car is a weekend / low mileage car.
#19
I have the elect. pump on how for about 6 months with no problem but I'm also have a Saleen SC on. I did break a belt before the elect pump and SC and overheated the engine in limp mode. So I'm happy with this mod. The belt driven pump is still on my shelf if needed.