GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Water Temperature Sensor Location?

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:02 PM
  #21  
anthony05gt's Avatar
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When I installed my Whipple kit the crossover was removed and replaced with Whipple's new aluminum crossover and it has no large plug like the stocker has. It just has a small bleeder fitting. I filled the bone dry block and complete system through the reservoir cap, then bled it at the new crossover which netted a very small pocket of air after the thermostat opened.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #22  
89Trooper's Avatar
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by anthony05gt
then bled it at the new crossover which netted a very small pocket of air after the thermostat opened.
Which I'm 100% positive would have worked it's way out on it's own.

On my '89, it has an overflow tank (one you can take the cap off). After filling up the block and radiator, I would run the engine and watch air bubbles work their way over from the radiator (I have a clear tube).
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:15 PM
  #23  
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Maybe I'm missing something, but why not use the autometer recommended location in the block? Right below the last freeze plug on the driver's side of the block there is a 16mm x 1.5mm threaded plug (it has a recessed hex head). For an electric sender, use autometer adapter #2268. Screw the sender into the adapter, then screw the adapter into the block. Done.

I used this spot and my temps are dead on and very reactive to temperature changes. Maybe this spot doesn't work for the mechanical sender, or there is no convenient autometer adapter for the mechanical sender?

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:20 PM
  #24  
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by Import-Slaya
Maybe I'm missing something, but why not use the autometer recommended location in the block? Right below the last freeze plug on the driver's side of the block there is a 16mm x 1.5mm threaded plug (it has a recessed hex head). For an electric sender, use autometer adapter #2268. Screw the sender into the adapter, then screw the adapter into the block. Done.

I used this spot and my temps are dead on and very reactive to temperature changes. Maybe this spot doesn't work for the mechanical sender, or there is no convenient autometer adapter for the mechanical sender?
I never saw where Autometer recommended this location. A mechanical sensor would need a 16mm to 1/2" NPT adapter, so that may not exist.

Maybe I should just settle on an electrical gauge? I guess it would still be tons more accurate than the stock gauge?

Do you have to drain all the coolant to replace that fitting?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:23 PM
  #25  
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From: St. Louis Area
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Makes sense...

So, if I wanted the gauge to show a problem (fan failure for example)... would that location be ok?

Then I would know it's not accurate during warm up, but then I would see the needle rise when the T-Stat opened.

I would know where a "good" reading would be (taking into account A/C on, hotter days, etc.) and would know a problem existed if it got much higher.

I hear the stock gauge will point pretty much straight up even if the temp is higher than normal.
If all you wanted was a gauge to show you if there is a problem, the stock gauge does that very nicely.

From the trusty owners manual:

If the engine begins to overheat
• The engine coolant temperature
gauge will move to the red (hot)area.
• The “engine coolant temperature” indicator will illuminate.
• The Service engine soon indicator light will illuminate.
If the engine reaches a preset over-temperature condition, the engine will automatically switch to alternating cylinder operation. Each disabled cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine.
When this occurs the vehicle will still operate. However:
• The engine power will be limited.
• The air conditioning system will be disabled.
Continued operation will increase the engine temperature:
• The engine will completely shut down.
• Steering and braking effort will increase

Once the engine temps get over a certain point, the gauge will start to move to the right. From around 180-230ish, the gauge reads the same...right in the middle. after 230ish, the gauge will move right. Once it gets to the red zone, all the rest of the lights and warnings start happening. If you have the IUP, the gauge will turn red if the headlights are on.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #26  
89Trooper's Avatar
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by theedge67
If all you wanted was a gauge to show you if there is a problem, the stock gauge does that very nicely.

From the trusty owners manual:

If the engine begins to overheat
• The engine coolant temperature
gauge will move to the red (hot)area.
• The “engine coolant temperature” indicator will illuminate.
• The Service engine soon indicator light will illuminate.
If the engine reaches a preset over-temperature condition, the engine will automatically switch to alternating cylinder operation. Each disabled cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine.
When this occurs the vehicle will still operate. However:
• The engine power will be limited.
• The air conditioning system will be disabled.
Continued operation will increase the engine temperature:
• The engine will completely shut down.
• Steering and braking effort will increase
Forgot about all that! So, I guess if I have power, I'm good to go!
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 04:31 AM
  #27  
Kenny Hardy's Avatar
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what wire on the obd port was this
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