Upper and Lower strut braces?
1/5/08, 09:10 PM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Upper and Lower strut braces?
So everyone is very familiar with the upper strut tower brace concept. I actually installed the FRPP one to test, courtesy of a guy who was looking to sell his. I ended up not buying it as for me it didn't seem to make any difference. I don't autocross, but enjoy spirited driving from time to time.
I've also seen the lower bracing that locks in the bottom part of the strut dealybobber (highly technical term that I looked up on Wikipedia). So question is, has anyone gone from nothing to just the top to both the top and bottom braces? Significant change in feel, stability, handling, etc?
In my mind, adding a lower brace would complete the bracing to make the front suspension a box vs. just connecting the tops of the strut towers. It really makes sense that adding the lower piece would make a significant change, but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone...
I've also seen the lower bracing that locks in the bottom part of the strut dealybobber (highly technical term that I looked up on Wikipedia). So question is, has anyone gone from nothing to just the top to both the top and bottom braces? Significant change in feel, stability, handling, etc?
In my mind, adding a lower brace would complete the bracing to make the front suspension a box vs. just connecting the tops of the strut towers. It really makes sense that adding the lower piece would make a significant change, but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone...
1/6/08, 07:27 AM
#2
Shelby GT500 Member
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So everyone is very familiar with the upper strut tower brace concept. I actually installed the FRPP one to test, courtesy of a guy who was looking to sell his. I ended up not buying it as for me it didn't seem to make any difference. I don't autocross, but enjoy spirited driving from time to time.
I've also seen the lower bracing that locks in the bottom part of the strut dealybobber (highly technical term that I looked up on Wikipedia). So question is, has anyone gone from nothing to just the top to both the top and bottom braces? Significant change in feel, stability, handling, etc?
In my mind, adding a lower brace would complete the bracing to make the front suspension a box vs. just connecting the tops of the strut towers. It really makes sense that adding the lower piece would make a significant change, but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone...
I've also seen the lower bracing that locks in the bottom part of the strut dealybobber (highly technical term that I looked up on Wikipedia). So question is, has anyone gone from nothing to just the top to both the top and bottom braces? Significant change in feel, stability, handling, etc?
In my mind, adding a lower brace would complete the bracing to make the front suspension a box vs. just connecting the tops of the strut towers. It really makes sense that adding the lower piece would make a significant change, but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone...
1/7/08, 12:26 PM
#3
Legacy TMS Member
Based on the feedback on TMS, the lower A-arm brace (the bar that connects the two parts of the lower engine crossmember) makes the biggest difference and that the upper strut tower brace is merely for decorative purposes.
1/7/08, 05:41 PM
#4
Team Mustang Source
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Think it is more than just "decoration". The top is suppose to offer some stress relief from flex. Both top and bottom should be used if you autocross, or just a fun hard drive on back and twisting roads.
1/7/08, 06:04 PM
#5
Legacy TMS Member
The 2 point braces aren't going to reduce flex (if there is any) on the top of the strut towers. A triangulated setup is needed, but so far from what I have heard, even autocrossers and road racers don't bother with a STB on the S197.
1/7/08, 08:35 PM
#6
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Would anyone mind providing feedback about what a K-Member brace is, and if it's recommended
1/7/08, 08:44 PM
#7
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A triangular set up would not work on the S197's. There's nothing on the firewall solid to bolt to. Also if you're into hardcore drag racing, trust me, it will flex at launch.
1/7/08, 09:44 PM
#8
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
So there isn't a single person in this forum, who can answer my question about the K-member brace ehh
1/8/08, 06:09 AM
#9
Legacy TMS Member
1/8/08, 06:11 AM
#10
Legacy TMS Member
Do you have any evidence there is flex at the strut towers during hardcore drag racing and that any of the aftermarket STB's will reduce/prevent this flex?
1/8/08, 09:04 AM
#11
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Hopefully, they are an inch or so in the air...
1/8/08, 09:56 AM
#12
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1/8/08, 01:51 PM
#14
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RRR: Yes, chassis twist is what I meant
FB55: Did you see what you bolted that to. According to any cut away view I've seen, there is no stress point there at all. Also, I do not believe that just adding one part anywhere will have volumous effect. On suspension you need to do it all, for it all to do the work it is intended to do. Otherwise, I agree, it's just fluff.
FB55: Did you see what you bolted that to. According to any cut away view I've seen, there is no stress point there at all. Also, I do not believe that just adding one part anywhere will have volumous effect. On suspension you need to do it all, for it all to do the work it is intended to do. Otherwise, I agree, it's just fluff.
1/8/08, 03:21 PM
#15
Bullitt Member
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I've got the K member brace with the torque limiters and have picked up some NVH between 60-67 MPH, both on acceleration and deceleration. I think I'm going to take off the torque limiters to see if that solves the problem but hope to keep the K member brace on.
1/8/08, 11:05 PM
#16
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Thanks for coming through for me Charlie. I just wasn't sure if they were different braces, or one in the same.
Needless to say. I'll either be selecting the CHE Performance 4-point K-member brace w/o engine torque limiters for $89.23-104.23..Or the FRPP A-arm brace from John Bleakley Ford for $58.00
Needless to say. I'll either be selecting the CHE Performance 4-point K-member brace w/o engine torque limiters for $89.23-104.23..Or the FRPP A-arm brace from John Bleakley Ford for $58.00
1/9/08, 08:19 AM
#18
Legacy TMS Member
My perception of the CHE is that albeit it appears to be a solid design, utilizing both the OEM mounting points and the bushing mount, it adds unnecessary weight. The OEM A-Arm isn't very heavy and gets the job done. The GT500s do not have any problems with strut bearings, so it seems like it's a safe way to go.
1/9/08, 04:01 PM
#19
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
1/9/08, 05:21 PM
#20
Legacy TMS Member
FYI:
I've seen some people claim the factory A-Arm brace flexes, but I have not heard of any GT500 owners complain about strut bearing issues. The GT500s have the same factory A-Arm brace. Also, the factory brace feels very stout. It is a tube that is flattened at both ends with 4 studs for mounting onto the factory K-member flanges.
I've seen some people claim the factory A-Arm brace flexes, but I have not heard of any GT500 owners complain about strut bearing issues. The GT500s have the same factory A-Arm brace. Also, the factory brace feels very stout. It is a tube that is flattened at both ends with 4 studs for mounting onto the factory K-member flanges.