So everyone is very familiar with the upper strut tower brace concept. I actually installed the FRPP one to test, courtesy of a guy who was looking to sell his. I ended up not buying it as for me it didn't seem to make any difference. I don't autocross, but enjoy spirited driving from time to time.

I've also seen the lower bracing that locks in the bottom part of the strut dealybobber (highly technical term that I looked up on Wikipedia). So question is, has anyone gone from nothing to just the top to both the top and bottom braces? Significant change in feel, stability, handling, etc?

In my mind, adding a lower brace would complete the bracing to make the front suspension a box vs. just connecting the tops of the strut towers. It really makes sense that adding the lower piece would make a significant change, but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone...

 

I'm running both, GMS stb and a Steeda G trac brace I have ran them both and separately and the differences are subtle but noticeable! Front is tighter for me this is the most obvious on irregular roads!

 

Based on the feedback on TMS, the lower A-arm brace (the bar that connects the two parts of the lower engine crossmember) makes the biggest difference and that the upper strut tower brace is merely for decorative purposes.

 

Think it is more than just "decoration". The top is suppose to offer some stress relief from flex. Both top and bottom should be used if you autocross, or just a fun hard drive on back and twisting roads.

 

The 2 point braces aren't going to reduce flex (if there is any) on the top of the strut towers. A triangulated setup is needed, but so far from what I have heard, even autocrossers and road racers don't bother with a STB on the S197.

 

Would anyone mind providing feedback about what a K-Member brace is, and if it's recommended

 

A triangular set up would not work on the S197's. There's nothing on the firewall solid to bolt to. Also if you're into hardcore drag racing, trust me, it will flex at launch.

 

So there isn't a single person in this forum, who can answer my question about the K-member brace ehh

 

K-Member brace = A-Arm Brace. Yes, it is HIGHLY recommended.

 

Edelbrock has a triangulated STB for the S197. I am not about to drill into the firewall to install what could be a decorative piece.

Do you have any evidence there is flex at the strut towers during hardcore drag racing and that any of the aftermarket STB's will reduce/prevent this flex?

 

I assume you are talking about chassis twist due to engine torque at launch? I hope so because the front wheels shouldn't be exerting ANY force on the car during a proper drag launch.

Hopefully, they are an inch or so in the air...

 

Ahem...

 

Plus, when I removed it to do my CMCV deletes, the front end did not move. There was no tightness on the brace at all. I believe it is for looks only, also.

 

RRR: Yes, chassis twist is what I meant
FB55: Did you see what you bolted that to. According to any cut away view I've seen, there is no stress point there at all. Also, I do not believe that just adding one part anywhere will have volumous effect. On suspension you need to do it all, for it all to do the work it is intended to do. Otherwise, I agree, it's just fluff.

 

I've got the K member brace with the torque limiters and have picked up some NVH between 60-67 MPH, both on acceleration and deceleration. I think I'm going to take off the torque limiters to see if that solves the problem but hope to keep the K member brace on.

 

Thanks for coming through for me Charlie. I just wasn't sure if they were different braces, or one in the same.

Needless to say. I'll either be selecting the CHE Performance 4-point K-member brace w/o engine torque limiters for $89.23-104.23..Or the FRPP A-arm brace from John Bleakley Ford for $58.00

 

I'll have my factory A-arm brace up for sale as soon as my CHE one comes in.

 

My perception of the CHE is that albeit it appears to be a solid design, utilizing both the OEM mounting points and the bushing mount, it adds unnecessary weight. The OEM A-Arm isn't very heavy and gets the job done. The GT500s do not have any problems with strut bearings, so it seems like it's a safe way to go.

 

Jason ! any particular reason for switching your factory A-arm brace, in favor of the CHE K-member brace or are you also getting the CHE torque limiters with it ?

 

FYI:
I've seen some people claim the factory A-Arm brace flexes, but I have not heard of any GT500 owners complain about strut bearing issues. The GT500s have the same factory A-Arm brace. Also, the factory brace feels very stout. It is a tube that is flattened at both ends with 4 studs for mounting onto the factory K-member flanges.