<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TURBO 05 @ March 5, 2006, 12:49 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>To each thier own though so enjoy what ever choice you make and remember as long as you can smoke them Chevys its all good [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img][/b][/quote]
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/werd.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Granatelli @ March 4, 2006, 4:03 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>


The turbo will make more power down low. For some reason a few of you think the turbo is bad becuase it will go over 450hp. But that is not the case. Just because you car will run 155 does not meen you need to drive it that way. If all you want is 450hp then leave the kit at 8psi and you can go 200,000 miles trouble free. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
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I am trying to decide between the two as well so I have a few questions. With your kit is that cats? Do you need to run cats with a turbo? You can only run short tube headers right? Does your kit replace the stock headers? Does one need to use a turbo timer and does the car run after you turn it off. How long does it run if it does?

Thanks a lot [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

 

Any of you guys heard of Hellion? They are in R & D for an 05 GT turbo system as well...just thought I'd throw that out there

http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/

 

I am trying to decide between the two as well so I have a few questions. With your kit is that cats? Do you need to run cats with a turbo? You can only run short tube headers right? Does your kit replace the stock headers? Does one need to use a turbo timer and does the car run after you turn it off. How long does it run if it does?

Thanks a lot [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img][/quote]


You do not need to run cats - it is your choice
You are correct the turbo will not over boost magically - as delivered it will make 8 psi and that will not blow up the engine
You do not need a turbo timer either. Those are the old days. Todays turbos don't need a cool down period

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...tang/turbo.htm

 

Granatelli, glad to see you are back. Two months and no posts, I was afraid we had lost you.

What changed in the modern turbos so they do not need a turbo timer or cool down period?

 

For some reason my email notification thingy turned off so this site fell off my radar. I do my best to cram 14 hours into my 12-hour workdays so sorry I disappeared.

In the old days the idle was to allow the engine oil to circulate through he turbo have hard driving to allow the oil to cool the bearing and seals in the Turbo. That is where the turbo timers concept came from. It allows the vehicle operator to turn the ignition off and basically walk away from the car but the engine will keep running for a predetermined amount of time to allow the “cool� oil to continue to cool the turbo bearing off.

Today’s turbos have far more advanced seals and bearings that can withstand this stuff. Furthermore, the advent of the ball bearing turbo all but eliminates that issue all together. That is not to say you need a ball bearing turbo but it goes to show the advancements. In the older days we as an industry did not have the material we do today to manufacture the seals that capture and keep the oil in the engine and for that matter the turbo.

I hope that give a surface explanation

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...tang/turbo.htm

 

I had a 95 5.0 5sp that I first s/c with a vortech centrifical. It was noisy at idle (a problem later corrected by Vortech) and produced 10# of boost at 6,000 rpm's. That was OK for 2 years, then I wanted more power and less noise. I sold the Vortech and bought an Incon Twin turbo w/intercooler set up. No noise, no drag on the engine like a belt driven s/c, and 10# of boost at 2,800 rpm's. I had a lot more fun and power with the twins than with the vortech.

The turbos was a much more difficult install than the Vortech, and the resulting plumbing made it more difficult to service. I also ran into problems blowing head gaskets with the turbos even with a custom tune. Part of the head gasket probem was that I/we couldn't get the wastegates to open soon enough to reduce the boost to under 10#. New actuators would have had been purchased and installed for that. After 2 years with the turbos and twice replacing the head gaskets, I removed and sold the turbo kit, installed 3.73's and drove it stock.

My experience taught me that I may have been happier with a Whipple or Kenne Bell for no noise and great torque at low rpm's, or the smaller turbos offered by Incon at the time - running with 6-7# of boost. BTW, I believe Incon went out of business a year or so after I made my purchase.

We now have an 06 GT, but being that I share this car with my wife, I don't see any forced induction for this pony.

Just my .02 worth on this thread.

 

Interesting thread. It's good to know that you don't need turbo timers anymore. Also interesting that 90's technology is "old school" now. I had a '95 Mustang 5.0 with a Kenne Bell. Probably the most reliable, least maintenance configuration you could possibly own. I had to learn how to tune it and get it running just right though. I sold the KB a few years after owning it and drove it naturally aspirated for over a year before I bought my '06 and sold the '95. I think I enjoyed it just as much after I pulled off the KB. The reason??? I didn't have to worry about detonation from bad gas, or some other fluke. Also, I had gobs of torque with the KB, but couldn't get traction and didn't want to throw DRs or slicks on the thing.

Just think about what you are going to use the car for and take your time deciding. Talk to others who have done it and have owned their kits for over a year. Everyone thinks "their" setup is the BEST when they first get it.

My other 2 cents...I had over 130,000 miles on my '95 and it never burned/used oil and the supercharger never hurt it. With a street supercharger, I wouldn't worry about "crank side loading" or the HP it takes to turn one. You are not hurting the engine while cruising down the road. I don't think you can beat a supercharger for a street car due to it's simplicity.

All that being said, the 4.6 is lacking some power that I am used to from my 5.0 and I may still consider something in the next year or two.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by principalpony

I had a 95 5.0 5sp that I first s/c with a vortech centrifugal. It was noisy at idle (a problem later corrected by Vortech) and produced 10# of boost at 6,000 rpm's. That was OK for 2 years, then I wanted more power and less noise. I sold the Vortech and bought an Incon Twin turbo w/intercooler set up. No noise, no drag on the engine like a belt driven s/c, and 10# of boost at 2,800 rpm's. I had a lot more fun and power with the twins than with the vortech.

As soon as you said Incon I knew all the Turbo guys were goners . Incon gave the turbo industry a bad name. They were more interested in taking your money then selling and supporting their parts. I do agree calibration issues ensued with the Incon kit. But all due respect you are talking about 11 years ago and a ton has changed since then. You also state you went from a single Vortech to a twin turbo. Why not a simple single turbo? Incon was known for being a sparkplug wire eater .

Rather then speak for the rest please allow me to say that Granatelli owned Paxton Superchargers from 1957 to 1998 so we know all about the pros and cons. The Novi-2000 was quiet so even in 1995 there were “quiet� choices to be had in the centrifugal world – but that is here nor there now. There is no question that lbs for lbs a turbo makes a considerable more amount of torque and hp under the curve of the centrifugal. Also if a person has a 10psi centrifugal that means they only get the 10psi at the point where they shift. As you stated a 10psi kit from a turbo typically makes full boost as low as 2500rpm so the difference in power and torque is considerable.

This in turn does put more load on the engine which could have lead to your calibration issues you speak of.

Typically a turbo at 7psi will do the same as a centrifugal at 10psi. When Granatelli ships a kit for a new 2005/06 Mustang we explicitly tell the customer keep it at 8psi. After that you are on your own. At 8psi our turbo kit will produce about 50hp and 80ft/lbs more then a centrifugal at 10psi and it puts the same amount of load (strain) on the engine.

 

You will also note that our 05/06 kit packages in the engine compartment very well. It is not a plumbing nightmare like a few other kits out there and best of all it is less cluttered then a centrifugal install
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...507_smallb.jpg

 

Granatelli, I've pretty much been sold on the turbo for awhile and yours was one of the ones I've been looking at. What can one generally expect for the kit installed and do you have distributors in the Northeast.

 

Plain and simple....?........?

Just put the kit on and don't mess around with it it will make 400hp and 440ft/lbs and live happily ever after.



This kit is priced at $5500.00 complete or $5000.00 for a tuner kit which is complete less injectors and a tuner. The kit can be installed by the average do it yourselfer. Or you can go to your local speed shop - where exactly do you live?

 

Its seems that if you go unde 450hp theseblocks should hold up. I figure I cant go wrong either way butwant the turbo to be diff and because the sounds rocks. I aint taking no risk on the install so I will have it istalled by a shop. Figure if he breaks something in the install he pays. I live in NY area and am interested in findin someone nearby. Also been keeping track of turbo installs on other forums and read something about a 3" downpipe. What is it and what does it do?

 

There is no need for a 3" downpipe. Your engine will be happy with our kit at 8psi.

Call Turbo People of New York
282 Farragut Parkway
Hastings-On-Hudson, NY 10706
(914) 478-1727 Phone
(914) 478-7318 Fax

Ask for Job Sr. and tell him you want a Granatelli turbo kit.

 

Does anyone know how much a shop charges to install a turbo kit like this?

 

What about the additional gauges needed for an install. A couple friends who put superchargers on thier 05's spent almost 800 bucks on gauges. What gauges would be need for the turbo. Also I was told with a s/c you have to permanently disable traction control, do you have to have the t/c off with the turbo?

 

it is a 14 hour job so at $55.00 figure $770 to $800.00

 

The Granatelli turbo kit works with the factory traction control. You need no gauges but everyone like to have a boost gauge