Tuning is required for the so called tuneless intakes
Sorry, but I'm with Martimus on the
for it being "required".
Why? Ask Doug himself. He did a shootout of most of these "no-tune" required intakes (not GMS) on his own dyno over a year ago and never found any of them to be in the 15.0 range with the stock tune. In fact he thought the MRT to be one of the better one's of the bunch at the time.
"Required" -- NO
"Beneficial" -- You bet
"Dangerous" without a tune -- NO (depending on which one you're talking about anyway)
for it being "required".Why? Ask Doug himself. He did a shootout of most of these "no-tune" required intakes (not GMS) on his own dyno over a year ago and never found any of them to be in the 15.0 range with the stock tune. In fact he thought the MRT to be one of the better one's of the bunch at the time.
"Required" -- NO
"Beneficial" -- You bet
"Dangerous" without a tune -- NO (depending on which one you're talking about anyway)

Is it stock? -- NO

Therefore it requires a tune or the correct air transfer function. Doing otherwise is just gambling on how lean it can run and if it will harm your catalytic converters or engine.
Here is a link from the first post in case you missed it. http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=56231
As SixtySix said further down in this thread, Doug tested many of these CAI's and didn't find the results you claim. Are Dougs initial tests conclusive? NO! Are the Missouri tests conclusive? NO!
We're all welcome to believe what we want, right or wrong! I got a quarter in my pocket that says you've got a 50-50 shot of being right amigo!!
This is what I don't understand, my a/f clearly shows an increase towards lean upon initial WOT, and then settles down to 12.5. So how is this not correcting the air transfer function as you call it?
I have A question has anybody seen dyno results from a GT with the Ford racing performance tune and CAI on it ! I think it would be interesting to see how the Ford racing tune stacks up!.....
Did you do more then one dynorun on your car? What were the other runs?
Do you have the dynojet files for your runs? If not would you mind calling the shop and having them email them to you? Then you can compare them with out runs as I can send you the 2 I did before the dynoday and when I get the St. Louis dynoday files I can send you those too.
Thanks, Doug.
yup
i can go to the track and run high 13's by now and i only have pulley's,exhuast,intake spacer and a k&n drop in filter. so why would i want to get a tune??? for a half a sec. drop in time?? i dont think so. i'm fine where i'm at.
I was at the St. Louis dyno day with the MRT intake. I've been running Doug's tune for a while because my car runs so lean with the MRT CAI that my check engine light comes on. Each car is different and no two are alike. All of these "no tune required" CAIs lean out the a/f on most cars (they aim for the mid 13s). Now I'm not saying dangerously lean, but leaner than they should be. So, if your car is a little different, then the CAI may cause you to be too lean. Yes where you live also plays a factor due to the air quality. So, the suggestion I would make to everyone is to dyno test your car to make sure your af is safe. For those of us in St. Louis, the "no tune required" were dangerously lean on the day of tuning so we needed to get our cars down to a proper af. I would just recommend that you get your car dyno tested to be sure that a certain CAI on your car and in your city doesn't cause you to be too lean.
Cobra R Member



Joined: July 9, 2006
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 3
From: Hillsboro MO, just south of St. Louis
Sure hope people post their dyno graphs... I'm getting very confused.
What I would like to see are the baseline runs (no changes) and then the afters.
Did Doug say that he replaced all the GMS sensors (after first sesion) with the OEM ones to do his tunes?
Posting the before/after charts sure would be helpful here people.
What I would like to see are the baseline runs (no changes) and then the afters.
Did Doug say that he replaced all the GMS sensors (after first sesion) with the OEM ones to do his tunes?
Posting the before/after charts sure would be helpful here people.
Doug904 is Doug from Bamatunes he tunes cars and does a great job.
When I have time to get my dynos scaned I will post Major difference in A/f ratios before and after tunes. From what I understand Doug904's tunes are programed to adjust for temp and humidity with the internal computer, ( more technical stuff that I understand). It took 5 pulls to get the a/f corrected and the tune I wanted.
I thought I was happy with the setup I had on the car when I showed up at the dyno day, thinking just a few tweeks here and there. as we got working with the car I realized that it needed more than just a " tweek".
As I drive it I may find some more minor adjustments I would like, such as a bit higher or lower shift points, harder or softer shifting, longer or shorter shift ranges. these are options you have with an auto, with a manual these are yours to do with as you please.
As for a recommendation to someone to get a tune or not?
I recommend a tune for anybody who has done any intake or exhaust mods on their car, why? It performs better. How? better acceleration, better gas mileage, better shifting, and better for the engine by not running too rich or too lean.
As for a " no tune CAI" yea, it may run better from the stock intake, but after I saw the results from a tune, its the only way to go. You spend how much on mods, a tune is a cheap mod that has greater benefits than not having one.
You will see what I mean after I post my dynos.
The other Doug.
P.S. Doug904, if you want to, and if you have my dyno sheets, I give you permission to post them.
Dougxox
saleen underdrive pulleys?
Who was it at the dyno day that had saleen underdrive pulleys. I remember speaking with someone there that had those pulleys. wondering how many pulleys came with your kit? What color were they? any info on the kit would be great. I found a kit but they are selling only two of them I think its the crank and the water pump pulley, I didnt see the small one in the picture which I am guessing that one is the alternator pulley normally, I see some kits selling two some selling 3, I am wondering what the gain differences are between the two pulley and the 3 kit. thanks for any info. Sorry I forgot who I spoke with that had them.
I was at the St. Louis dyno day with the MRT intake. I've been running Doug's tune for a while because my car runs so lean with the MRT CAI that my check engine light comes on. Each car is different and no two are alike. All of these "no tune required" CAIs lean out the a/f on most cars (they aim for the mid 13s). Now I'm not saying dangerously lean, but leaner than they should be. So, if your car is a little different, then the CAI may cause you to be too lean. Yes where you live also plays a factor due to the air quality. So, the suggestion I would make to everyone is to dyno test your car to make sure your af is safe. For those of us in St. Louis, the "no tune required" were dangerously lean on the day of tuning so we needed to get our cars down to a proper af. I would just recommend that you get your car dyno tested to be sure that a certain CAI on your car and in your city doesn't cause you to be too lean.
So for someone to come here and make a post saying that tuning is "required" for all of the "no tune required" intakes, and that they saw it with their own eyes is just
I do agree that if you have any doubts about your cars performance, than get it dynod, but that applies to ANY CAI. This thread as well as many others, try to make blanket statements about certain products, and frankly it is getting old. This forum is becoming such a chore, people come here to try and get facts and tips, and if they're smart enough they should be able to get about 10% valuable information, the rest is just filler.
So for someone to come here and make a post saying that tuning is "required" for all of the "no tune required" intakes, and that they saw it with their own eyes is just
I do agree that if you have any doubts about your cars performance, than get it dynod, but this thread as well as many others, try to make blanket statements about certain products, and frankly it is getting old. This forum is becoming such a chore, people come here to try and get facts and tips, and if they're smart enough they should be able to get about 10% valuable information, the rest is just filler.
I do agree that if you have any doubts about your cars performance, than get it dynod, but this thread as well as many others, try to make blanket statements about certain products, and frankly it is getting old. This forum is becoming such a chore, people come here to try and get facts and tips, and if they're smart enough they should be able to get about 10% valuable information, the rest is just filler.
The internet is so stressful...
Ok, everyone is saying that a car running a GMS\MAF should get a dyno test done. I am just curious if and where these test can be done. I live in NJ and I search the net and was not able to find anyone that does this. Any suggestions?
Does anyone know what the factory PCM parameters are set for the a/f?
I uderstand that optimum is 12.5 but there is + or - range acceptable that is fine for normal driving. So with an aftermarket CAI and no tune a bit of flucuation will be the norm right? Otherwise, if you are out of the PCM a/f acceptable range you will trigger the CEL. So whats the big deal here, unless your racing or really drive your car hard all the time a little lean or rich within parameters will not damage your engine. I've had my car 2 years and only once held it to the floor and had to let up pretty quick beacuse I was going triple the speed limit, and it was to quick for the conditions. My point is under normal driving conditions I don't believe a little fluctuation in the a/f ratio should be a concern.
I uderstand that optimum is 12.5 but there is + or - range acceptable that is fine for normal driving. So with an aftermarket CAI and no tune a bit of flucuation will be the norm right? Otherwise, if you are out of the PCM a/f acceptable range you will trigger the CEL. So whats the big deal here, unless your racing or really drive your car hard all the time a little lean or rich within parameters will not damage your engine. I've had my car 2 years and only once held it to the floor and had to let up pretty quick beacuse I was going triple the speed limit, and it was to quick for the conditions. My point is under normal driving conditions I don't believe a little fluctuation in the a/f ratio should be a concern.
Cobra R Member



Joined: July 9, 2006
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 3
From: Hillsboro MO, just south of St. Louis
Here are two dyno runs, one was done Sept 15 at a local dyno. This was for a base run, come to find out the operator had it set on STD and not SAE, so there will be some differences there.
The 2ed one is the tune with Doug from Bamatunes on November 11th in St. Louis.
Currently the issue is with air flow, you can see the changes Doug made with the tune. also note the HP difference, took out the torque converter problem and smoothed out the roughness.
I am happy with what he did, well worth the money spent.
Which dyno would you like your car to be?
The 2ed one is the tune with Doug from Bamatunes on November 11th in St. Louis.
Currently the issue is with air flow, you can see the changes Doug made with the tune. also note the HP difference, took out the torque converter problem and smoothed out the roughness.
I am happy with what he did, well worth the money spent.
Which dyno would you like your car to be?


