I would say the safe limit is 450rwhp. Anything over that is "reckless" and the user better be ready to buy into a new engine.

-Dan

 

Wow - what a thread - sorry about the breakage - noticed that you said you have 30# injectors - wonder if fuel did play. I have noticed that JDM Engineering is using 39# injectors with the Saleen supercharger (lower boost & HP) and have been noticing that the Vortech HO folks are going even bigger. Best of luck with the rebuild.

 

O great C/T Gods, I believe "05 Motor Go Boom" is far to good to pass up!

 

Guys, I have decided NOT to open the engine. I am going to ship it to VT Engine in MI and have Jim and his group tear it down, determine the error, forge the bottom end, install new springs and port the heads and put it back together. Before I send it, I will decide if I get it stroked and maybe get some custom cams.

Any though guys - mainly on the stroking

-Bryan

 

Bryan,
Pro and cons to stroking (Your Engine).
I probably would not do it because you are already supercharged. I think doing both you are running the chance of stressing the engine block more then need be. If you want more power just up the boost level (this will probably be cheaper too). You have to consider connecting rod ratio's and what not....not worth the litte bit you would get out of it IMHO.

 

Fantastic Feedback! Thank you!

-Bryan

 

If you want extra displacement I would go with a larger bore. VT Engines has some pretty Nifty stuff when it comes to that too.

 

Freudian slip? hahaha

 

Ha Ha.....yeah I guess so.

 

I'm for stroking the motor as it usually improves torque output over the entire powerband along with added HP. Theres no substitute for cubic inches.

I will say that I have personally not stroked a mod motor yet so I would definitely check the rod ratios, however they would have to be very poor for ME personally not to do it. My experience with stroking motors is based off the 302. I built a 302 with twin turbos and slapped it in a Ranger pickup. It had excellent power of course, but I had to use 3.73 gears to offset the lack of torque. When I jumped to the 337 and twin's power and torque were off the charts. I had to go to 3.08's to make it streetable and it would still light the tires(drag radials) at 80 plus without problems. That experience taught me if you can add cubes and not cause any other problems then do it.

Raising boost levels also creates more stress as you will have higher cylinder pressures and heat. This will also make tuning far more important. The more boost you run the less chance of error you have. One bad tank of gas,etc.. and you're back to square one, plus at some point you will pass the limit for pump gas. If you stroke the motor you can make more HP/TQ with the same boost level, and you then have the choice of even more power(higher boost levels) because the stroker kit is already installed. As far as the block goes I wouldn't worry about it as much . I know it's aluminum and most people switch to iron, however plenty of people have made good power with the aluminum block. My worry would be the tranny.

Everyone has their own opinions so it's basically what you want. They should be able to tell you what will work and so forth. Again I haven't stroked a mod motor YET so.. You get the picture. I will do the 5.0 liter stroker kit when I get to that point.

Thanks Mike

 

Man, sorry to hear the news, I am really curious to see what the root of all this evil is, especially if you were only netting 14* of timing, and an a/f of 11.5.

You mentioned in the second or so post that the car was "shutting down" and that was the reason for the low MPH.
What did you mean by that? Failsafe? Or just flat out nosing over?

Not to boast or rub salt in your wounds but as you know I have been pulling gears on a gernade with the pin pulled (stock motor, clutch and trans) all season, and no indications of any issues.

I am really curious as to what they find.

I can tell you that Our car has about 25-30 passes at the 11.0@129ish, a couple 10.6-7@132, all with the same tune and the same 11.5 psi and alot more timing than you have indicated (104 octane) and a touch leaner.
Most of my shifts are executed around 5600rpm, a few of them were missed shift where I logged rpm in excess of 8000 :notnice:, But this thing still lives to see another day.

I would like to hear a bit more detail of the tune that is in your car, as well as the circumstances involved around the incident at hand.

FWIW, those are great e.t's from an auto. It is a shame, I would really hate to see anyones beast go down in flames.

 

Bryan,
I put a CHP stroker (351 -> 427) in a '93 F-150 and it worked great. BUT, that was in a 4x4 pickup where low end torque was king. With our high rpm, SOHC engines, I think I would leave stroke as is.

The Boss Hog . . . . .JMO

 

Any though guys - mainly on the stroking

-Bryan

I would not stroke the 4.6 for several reasons. Limits rpm potential due to increased piston speed (which reduces ring & piston life.) These engines already have nearly square bore and stroke dimensions with limited valve area ultimately limiting head flow. Big bore is the way to go for increased flow potential without limiting durability as much as a stroker. Centri blowers love to rev!

 

5.4 Ford GT engine block, bored out to 6L, ported your 3V head and match them to the bore which will unshroud the valves. Forged internals and put your blower back on.

Then wait for the tranny to blow.

 

On the test drive.

 

Hey Bryan,

Are you sometimes around Wilcrest and W. Belfort in Houston? I think I saw your car on Monday when I got behind a car much like yours to turn into a parking lot.

If it was, sweet car man. Sorry to hear of the carnage.

 

Hey Bryan,

Are you sometimes around Wilcrest and W. Belfort in Houston? I think I saw your car on Monday when I got behind a car much like yours to turn into a parking lot.

If it was, sweet car man. Sorry to hear of the carnage.

 

Update:

Does not look like detonation that caused the engine to blow. Per Steve at Houston Performance, he thinks the piston gave out, the rod snapped, and this torn the block to crap - all from too much heat from 9# of boost.

Teaser Pic


See pics here: http://www.mymustangpage.com/2005redgt/page32

-Bryan

 

whoa, for some reason that is a really cool picture!

 

grenade!