Suggestions for a mild suspension tune up?
#1
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Suggestions for a mild suspension tune up?
I'm generally pretty happy with the way my '05 handles with the stock suspension, but it might benefit from a little tune up. Maybe FRPP or Shelby anti-sway bars front and back? I think I went a little too far with my '96. The handling was good, but the ride was really rough. Suggestions for a few tweaks would be welcome.
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I'm generally pretty happy with the way my '05 handles with the stock suspension, but it might benefit from a little tune up. Maybe FRPP or Shelby anti-sway bars front and back? I think I went a little too far with my '96. The handling was good, but the ride was really rough. Suggestions for a few tweaks would be welcome.
I don't know alot about suspension, but if I were to do it all over again, I would assess my desires and what I feel are the shortcomings, and then go from there based on what recommendations I get to meet those desires.
If you just want a general tighter feel and a little drop in the ride height, I would say a set of springs and struts.
Last edited by Error404; 1/5/10 at 11:19 PM.
#3
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BMR rear sway bar with billet end links, shown here next to the stock piece:
It definitely tightens up the rear end and a big decrease in body roll in the rear. Also, here's a short vid they did with my car http://stangtv.com/forum/bmr-s197-le...kage-6271.html and the still pics http://stangtv.com/photos/showgaller...cat/534/page/1
It definitely tightens up the rear end and a big decrease in body roll in the rear. Also, here's a short vid they did with my car http://stangtv.com/forum/bmr-s197-le...kage-6271.html and the still pics http://stangtv.com/photos/showgaller...cat/534/page/1
Last edited by MTAS; 1/6/10 at 12:55 AM.
#4
Guess the first question is what you want to do. I have always heard the better the handling, the rougher of the ride.
If you are looking for just some basic handling, I agree maybe new sway bars, or a cheaper deal is the replacement of the bushings with the new composite stuff (can't recall the name, but they are red).
I tried to do a balance approach over all but have a stiffer ride. I lowered it, New LCA (and relocation brackets due to the lowering and no more wheel hop), Front tower brace and crotch brace below, and new panhard bar.
I would like to mod the sway bars at a later date but it is way down on the list, since it is more for bragging rights not that I autocross.
If you are looking for just some basic handling, I agree maybe new sway bars, or a cheaper deal is the replacement of the bushings with the new composite stuff (can't recall the name, but they are red).
I tried to do a balance approach over all but have a stiffer ride. I lowered it, New LCA (and relocation brackets due to the lowering and no more wheel hop), Front tower brace and crotch brace below, and new panhard bar.
I would like to mod the sway bars at a later date but it is way down on the list, since it is more for bragging rights not that I autocross.
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The trick for me is not to go too far
Somebody said "You never know what is enough until you know what is too much". True, but with cars it's kind of difficult to undo stuff you may have spent a thousand dollars on. Just yanking it out will cost a bunch in time and or money. And, I would be kicking myself for years.
Stiffer urethane bushings along with thicker anti sway bars might do the trick for me and my '05.
The '96 had Cobra anti-sway bars, urethane bushings, was lowered, and had Bilsteins at all four corners. Don't think I want to go that far this time. This is my top down boulevard cruiser. No road courses, or drags.
Stiffer urethane bushings along with thicker anti sway bars might do the trick for me and my '05.
The '96 had Cobra anti-sway bars, urethane bushings, was lowered, and had Bilsteins at all four corners. Don't think I want to go that far this time. This is my top down boulevard cruiser. No road courses, or drags.
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I really can't make a recommendation with what little you've given to go on. Most glaring is how/what you'd like to change about how the car feels/works. Never throw parts at what you can't identify--that's how you "go too far".
I recommend shocks and bars more than anything for those that do not wish to lower the car. The stock shocks aren't super well damped and tend to let the car move around too much, as well as cause the rear to jitter around over bumps, and overall tend to give more impact harshness than a premium replacement shock like a Koni STR.T (not adjustable).
The bars make the balance better, assuming they are well matched and cut roll. I got fed up with the "norm" and ended up having my own bars made and did so because I wanted a combination of things that was (and is) not available elsewhere. My bars are 35/22 and many are, including Eibach/FRPP and Steeda which I also carry. What makes what I did different is that I made *both* bars hollow, and *both* bars 3 way adjustable, and the rear bar to fit with a Fays2/Steeda style Watts link also. Only one catch--my rear bar does not work on a convertible..... Coupe only. In the end my bars are lighter, proven on overall balance but tweakable by the owner to dial the car in around his/her specific needs or wants. Say you have bigger rear tires, or more nose weight those things change the balance of a car and with non-adjustable bars, or less adjustable bars you have little or no options for dialing the set-up in to your liking.
I recommend shocks and bars more than anything for those that do not wish to lower the car. The stock shocks aren't super well damped and tend to let the car move around too much, as well as cause the rear to jitter around over bumps, and overall tend to give more impact harshness than a premium replacement shock like a Koni STR.T (not adjustable).
The bars make the balance better, assuming they are well matched and cut roll. I got fed up with the "norm" and ended up having my own bars made and did so because I wanted a combination of things that was (and is) not available elsewhere. My bars are 35/22 and many are, including Eibach/FRPP and Steeda which I also carry. What makes what I did different is that I made *both* bars hollow, and *both* bars 3 way adjustable, and the rear bar to fit with a Fays2/Steeda style Watts link also. Only one catch--my rear bar does not work on a convertible..... Coupe only. In the end my bars are lighter, proven on overall balance but tweakable by the owner to dial the car in around his/her specific needs or wants. Say you have bigger rear tires, or more nose weight those things change the balance of a car and with non-adjustable bars, or less adjustable bars you have little or no options for dialing the set-up in to your liking.
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Joe,
I just put some Koni STR.Ts on that I got from Sam along with a UMI double adjustable panhard(because I lowered it) and the Steeda HD upper mounts. I would highly recommend you pick up a set of either STR.T's or the Koni Sports from Sam. They are awesome feeling and keep the a$$ end well planted in a bumpy corner. That was my biggest complaint about the handling of my car and it has almost completely eliminated it. You will love them, take it from me. When I get sway bars I'm going to get a set of Sam's for the front and rear.
I just put some Koni STR.Ts on that I got from Sam along with a UMI double adjustable panhard(because I lowered it) and the Steeda HD upper mounts. I would highly recommend you pick up a set of either STR.T's or the Koni Sports from Sam. They are awesome feeling and keep the a$$ end well planted in a bumpy corner. That was my biggest complaint about the handling of my car and it has almost completely eliminated it. You will love them, take it from me. When I get sway bars I'm going to get a set of Sam's for the front and rear.
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I have the full FRPP kit. Its a rough ride if you have rough roads and big construction seams will beat the **** out of you, but the handling is awesome and it looks 150% better
#9
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Which brand are the best shocks out there?
I've seen anything from Konis Tociko Eiback to Frpp's
Can you put on these shocks for stock height?
I've seen anything from Konis Tociko Eiback to Frpp's
Can you put on these shocks for stock height?
Last edited by anteyeiabazele; 1/9/10 at 03:05 AM.
#10
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I would offer that after determining what your goals are and you have decided what components to change out, that you start with the shocks and struts as a few on here have mentioned. I kept the stock springs but went to Tokico D-specs and they were a significant improvement. If someone asked me what one suspension mod to do if you had to, it would be that. I have never tried any of the Koni sets, either the sports or STR.Ts, but my understanding is that they are probably the best on the market and you should get those if you have the cash. Also, I added BMR front and rear sway bars with poly bushings, and those were great as well. Just a note on poly bushings - They do get dirty and if you live in a dusty environment such as the desert southwest, you can expect to have to clean them a couple of times a year as they cause loud moaning sounds with the suspension when they are get dirty. Hope this helps.
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Koni's are highly recommended. I went with the STR.Ts because I didn't want to spend the extra cash for the adjustability. I don't autox either so I am really really happy with those. Determining your goals is first off. I wanted mine lower first then I wanted it to ride better and handle better. I first with with Steeda Ultralite springs. I could feel the stock shocks wearing out after a few months of being lowered. So about 10 months later I went with the Koni's, the HD upper mounts because I didn't want to have the pop and have to take the struts and springs out again, and the PHB. Good luck!
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Your goal is what everyone wants. Do everything great, and for cheap.
STR.T's are the best value for the bucks around in a non-adjustable sporting damper. And frankly they ride way better than stock, even more so when you have a car that's lowered as well.
Tokico quality and warranty suck in comparison. Bilstein are very well built, but hundreds more for a non-adjustable that doesn't offer any better control IMO. "FRPP" shocks ride like steel rods (good control if the roads are smooth but crushing ride and no lifetime warranty either). Eibach dampers just suck in terms of control.
FWIW, I can get all those brands. I don't 'sell' FRPP or Eibach dampers because I hate them, so they are not on the website, but I can get them. The fact I carry all the brands means I have no reason to tell you A over B because I don't have B.
STR.T's are the best value for the bucks around in a non-adjustable sporting damper. And frankly they ride way better than stock, even more so when you have a car that's lowered as well.
Tokico quality and warranty suck in comparison. Bilstein are very well built, but hundreds more for a non-adjustable that doesn't offer any better control IMO. "FRPP" shocks ride like steel rods (good control if the roads are smooth but crushing ride and no lifetime warranty either). Eibach dampers just suck in terms of control.
FWIW, I can get all those brands. I don't 'sell' FRPP or Eibach dampers because I hate them, so they are not on the website, but I can get them. The fact I carry all the brands means I have no reason to tell you A over B because I don't have B.
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Agree with the Koni STR.Ts. They improved both the handling and ride on my 2006 GT. I also had the Eibach Pro-kits changed to the Steeda Sport springs which are not quite as low. I bought them from Sam based on his sound advice.
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+1 on the Koni STR.T setup and Strano Performance. Just installed them this weekend. Firmer but not harsh at all. They actually ride better than my worn out 35k mile stockers.
https://themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=479901
https://themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=479901
#18
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I don't mean to hijack this thread but I've been on the fence about what to do next. I talked to strano earlier in the fall about if I should get shocks or sway bars first. I autocross my mustang and drive it on weekends for fun. I get a good bit of understeer when I enter corners and the rear skips around when I exit. We thought rear swaybar would help the understeer and konis would help the rear skip.
I decide to call Steeda on the matter and since I have Steeda ultralites Gus suggested the X5 balljoints and a bumpsteer kit first. Now I'm really not sure what to think. I really want to go one mod at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod and so I won't go broke.
I decide to call Steeda on the matter and since I have Steeda ultralites Gus suggested the X5 balljoints and a bumpsteer kit first. Now I'm really not sure what to think. I really want to go one mod at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod and so I won't go broke.
Last edited by ryan1112; 1/19/10 at 06:07 PM.
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Ryan, I have ultras too and I wanted to take care of the skipping you are referring to. The Str.t help that 1000%. It will keep the a$$ end more planted because the rear shocks will be doing what they are supposed to do unlike the stockers. I'd go with what sam says. I doubt you need the stuff gus said. YOu may eventually need it, but probably not now.
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I don't mean to hijack this thread but I've been on the fence about what to do next. I talked to strano earlier in the fall about if I should get shocks or sway bars first. I autocross my mustang and drive it on weekends for fun. I get a good bit of understeer when I enter corners and the rear skips around when I exit. We thought rear swaybar would help the understeer and konis would help the rear skip.
I decide to call Steeda on the matter and since I have Steeda ultralites Gus suggested the X5 balljoints and a bumpsteer kit first. Now I'm really not sure what to think. I really want to go one mod at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod and so I won't go broke.
I decide to call Steeda on the matter and since I have Steeda ultralites Gus suggested the X5 balljoints and a bumpsteer kit first. Now I'm really not sure what to think. I really want to go one mod at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod and so I won't go broke.
I'm actually an autocrosser, and I'm a Steeda wholesale distributor as well. If I felt you needed a Steeda part to help you most, I'd tell you that. What you need are better shocks and better bars (particularly the rear one) to help balance the car.
I can't say much more than this. I don't have a bumpsteer kit or X5 balljoints and I win.... A LOT. In fact I'm 20 for 22 @ SCCA National events over the last 3 years, including 3 straight Nationals Championships, and 3 straight ProSolo Titles (and the overall series title) all in S197's.