You may want to try using a breaker bar with a little penetrant/lubricant first......and leave the impact wrench as a last resort. It sounds like if you have the car in 4th and the E brake on.....the crank pulley should break loose with the above method.

 

How hard is it to re-route the belt after?

 

Easy, take a picture of the engine before you remove the belt
listen, get out there and install the **** pulleys already!

 

If you use an impact wrench you will need to remove the fan and shroud. Do take a pic of your belts first. I forgot to do that and spent 20 minutes figuring out the routing.

 

OK finally got out to start the job. I have to say the crank pulley bolt came off pretty easy with a breaker bar. I sprayed some Moovit lubricant on it and just leaned into the breaker bar and it started to slowly loosen.

With the water pump pulley bolts, I sprayed Moovit on it as well. Then I used a wrench on one bolt to hold the pulley in place and then used a rachet to loosen the bolts one by one. When I came down to the last pulley bolt, I had to re-tighten lightly one of the other bolts first and then removed the bolt by the same method.

Went to the dealership to pick up a new crank bolt and local parts store to pick up a 3 jaw pulley puller. Will continue on tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the update Peter. I might do this install in the spring as well. I was originally planning on going straight to FI, but might try the NA route for another year to save some cash and if so, this will be one of the mods I'll be doing.

 

Just save your stock pullys.

 

Good point. Thanks Matt. I'll have to make sure I do that.

 

It sounds like if a supercharger is installed, one needs to go back to the stock pulley setup?? If so, I might as well try getting the crank pulley powder coated since I am going to be doing my valve covers.

Gonna see if I can finish off the pulley install tonite.

 

Depends on the blower. The Roush TVS you NEED the UDPs to spin it slower so less boost. Many of the others you want the stockers to get the proper boost. So just keep them all unless you already know which route you're going.

 

OK took the crankshaft pulley off today with a Chrysler 3 jaw pulley puller. It was very easy to do once you have the 3 jaws set in as shown in TacoBill's write-up.

However torquing the crankshaft pulley was a bit of a challenge....especially with step 4 of the torquing steps in TacoBill's write-up.

How precise should you be with this 90 degree turn? How important is this? I am not sure if I did a little more or a little less.

 

As long as you got in the ball park you will be good to go.

 

Gonna look it over that last torquing step on Sunday again. I guess I could probably loosen the bolt and re-do it?

The Steeda instructions say you can re-use the crank bolt up to two times. In TacoBill's write up, it indicates you should replace the factory crank bolt with a new one.

Has anyone re-used their crank bolt?? I put a new one on, but if I loosen it.....I guess I may need to go buy another one??

Thanks for everyone's input thus far. Hopefully, I can get it right soon....I like to be cautious and make sure I do the job right.

 

Unless you will be drag racing and really putting a lot of stress on the crank beyound the occasional hit of spirited driving you are most likely fine with what you've done. I consern myself with being that cautious with internal specs rather than pully bolts. Just make sure that you don't have a wobble and that it's not loose. There are torque specs for lug nuts, tire stores don't usually even bother with. It is kind of like that to a point. That extra 90 degree turn is for bolt stretch and that's why you will be fine. If you reused your bolt then you are def ok the bolt shouldn't have any stretch left.

 

Thanks Matthew for the info. I am going to re-route the belt today and check to make sure everything is aligned. Wont be able to start car until I get the valve covers powder coated.

So it sounds like the crank bolt can be used a 2nd time if necessary. I do not drag race the car.....though I do like your term of "spirited" driving which I do occasionally

 

Ok got the belt re-routed....was very easy to do. Just make sure you have a picture of what it looked liked originally.

However, I ended up breaking one of the bolts on the water pump pulley. It is the first time I have used a torque wrench for a light application....and I got a little overzealous and did not hear/feel the click and torqued the bolt right off the pulley. Me bad!

Luckily I was able to order a new bolt from Ford and the damaged one came out with a little WD40.

 

I know this is off topic but I noticed in your sig you have the Pypes with the OR H and flowmaster how does that sound? Been trying to find a sound clip on YouTube of that set up but never found an exact match. Looking at getting the Pypes with the OR X pipe though.

Also plan on getting the Steeda UDPs hopefully before the end of the year.

 

It sounds really wicked.....a little reminiscent of the foxbody 5.0 sound. I am planning on doing either JBA or BBK headers in the summer. I found some nice clips on YouTube awhile ago with the JBA headers, Pypes offroad H and the older Flowmaster axlebacks......and it sounded very much like the old 5.0 rumble.

If you go to the Brenspeed website, they have a clip of the Pypes offroad H with original Flowies on the S197.

 

Oh ok I'll take a look at there site, thanks. That's the sound I was going for, my 96 explorer has the 5.0 with flowmasters and I hate to say it but it sounds better then my mustang.

 

Glad you are happy with the pulleys!

An yes, the factory crank bolt can be used several times.