Steeda Tri-ax installation
10/19/05, 10:00 PM
#1
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
With everybody on a shifter install kick lately I decided to go with the Steeda Tri-ax shifter. What attracted me to it was its reputation of being a good quality shifter with a minimal cost increase over the competition. I like how it has adjustable stop bolts which takes the beating instead of the stop bolts in the transmission. I ordered it from Brenspeed because of their reputation for good customer service.
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/shifter.html
I paid $289 with free ground shipping. Brent at Brenspeed got my order on Monday, they had it in stock and I had it in my greedy hands on Wednesday. Not bad.
This is what I got:
[attachmentid=36585]
The Steeda instructions say you need to disconnect the drive shaft. People online here say you don't have to. The steeda instructions don't go into a lot of detail and aren't as well written as the B&M instructions for example. The Steeda instructions don't even tell you how to properly reassemble the drive shaft, which I think is pretty important (torque to 76 lbs and don't reuse the bolts, get new ones). You can see in my photo above that there's a white Ford bag. I went to the local dealer and bought new drive train bolts. The part number is N800594-S100 and you need 4 of them. Cost be about $7 for the set. I don't plan on dropping the drive shaft unless I really have to and I picked up the bolts just in case.
The shifter itself seems to be really good quality. I will be putting it in this weekend. I will do a step by step to help others out. I did scan the instruction sheet in case anyone wants to see it. The files are large so provide me with an email address and I will email it.
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/shifter.html
I paid $289 with free ground shipping. Brent at Brenspeed got my order on Monday, they had it in stock and I had it in my greedy hands on Wednesday. Not bad.
This is what I got:
[attachmentid=36585]
The Steeda instructions say you need to disconnect the drive shaft. People online here say you don't have to. The steeda instructions don't go into a lot of detail and aren't as well written as the B&M instructions for example. The Steeda instructions don't even tell you how to properly reassemble the drive shaft, which I think is pretty important (torque to 76 lbs and don't reuse the bolts, get new ones). You can see in my photo above that there's a white Ford bag. I went to the local dealer and bought new drive train bolts. The part number is N800594-S100 and you need 4 of them. Cost be about $7 for the set. I don't plan on dropping the drive shaft unless I really have to and I picked up the bolts just in case.
The shifter itself seems to be really good quality. I will be putting it in this weekend. I will do a step by step to help others out. I did scan the instruction sheet in case anyone wants to see it. The files are large so provide me with an email address and I will email it.
10/19/05, 11:00 PM
#3
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: August 8, 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That looks almost exactly like my Pro 5.0 shifter, and I love it! I didn't need to drop the drive shaft to get mine in, took a little work, but eventually dropped right in from the top.
I would like to see the steeda instructions eliminatorxr7@hotmail.com if you could send them to me when you get a chance.
I think you are really going to like that shifter.
Scott
I would like to see the steeda instructions eliminatorxr7@hotmail.com if you could send them to me when you get a chance.
I think you are really going to like that shifter.
Scott
10/20/05, 06:26 AM
#4
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: July 20, 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Scott@October 20, 2005, 1:03 AM
That looks almost exactly like my Pro 5.0 shifter, and I love it! I didn't need to drop the drive shaft to get mine in, took a little work, but eventually dropped right in from the top.
I would like to see the steeda instructions eliminatorxr7@hotmail.com if you could send them to me when you get a chance.
I think you are really going to like that shifter.
Scott
That looks almost exactly like my Pro 5.0 shifter, and I love it! I didn't need to drop the drive shaft to get mine in, took a little work, but eventually dropped right in from the top.
I would like to see the steeda instructions eliminatorxr7@hotmail.com if you could send them to me when you get a chance.
I think you are really going to like that shifter.
Scott
10/21/05, 02:41 PM
#5
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: October 1, 2004
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Tri-Ax was the first mod I did and it has been great. Did not do it myself - it was the first one done by a shop which specializes in Mustangs and is a Steeda/Saleen dealer. They dropped the shaft. One thing I picked up from this site was that folks were having trouble with the bushings binding and had to go back and lubricate the parts. The shop did this. Saw the owner at a car show a few weeks ago and he said that they were lubricating the bushings on all their installs.
10/22/05, 01:30 PM
#7
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
What a nightmare!
I spent 2 hours jacking my car up, ripping the old one out and putting the Tri-Ax in. I get 90% done, I'm at the last step and the @!#%!% brass bushings they give me don't fit on the shift linkage. The bigger one fits half way on and the smaller one doesn't fit at all. It took me another hour to put it back together. That was the biggest waste of 3 hours of my life.
Steeda will be getting a call from me Monday. I could drill them out at work but I want it done right.
I took step by step pics and will be doing a how to when I'm done. Dropping the driveshaft wasn't necessary.
I spent 2 hours jacking my car up, ripping the old one out and putting the Tri-Ax in. I get 90% done, I'm at the last step and the @!#%!% brass bushings they give me don't fit on the shift linkage. The bigger one fits half way on and the smaller one doesn't fit at all. It took me another hour to put it back together. That was the biggest waste of 3 hours of my life.
Steeda will be getting a call from me Monday. I could drill them out at work but I want it done right.
I took step by step pics and will be doing a how to when I'm done. Dropping the driveshaft wasn't necessary.
10/22/05, 03:42 PM
#8
Cobra R Member
Join Date: August 23, 2004
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is why I no longer buy Steeda parts. What was your 1/4 time and speed on that run as I could not read it. One of you guys sounded like a fart can and I din't think it was you. Correct?
10/22/05, 05:32 PM
#9
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
i think it was 13.612 @ around 105, the fart can was the accord that I almost lost to. I was making crappy launches last night. I normally launch at 3000 RPM but it was bogging a little on the launch. I think because it was 40 degrees I should have been at a higher RPM. Oh well. I hope it doesnt rain this week and we can race again wednesday and friday. I need to beat 13.50 if it kills me.
Tomorrow I will try to fix the bushing at work on our lathe. I don't think I'll have a reamer for the size I need but I don't care, I'll just drill it out. If the bushings are a tiny bit loose, I don't think it will matter. I'll have to take the whole shift linkage out of my car and leave it on stands and drive my dad's car to work and fix it. I would have done it today but I didn't have time. I would never hear the end of it from my fiancee if I spent the entire day till 6 pm on her birthday "playing with my car"
Tomorrow I will try to fix the bushing at work on our lathe. I don't think I'll have a reamer for the size I need but I don't care, I'll just drill it out. If the bushings are a tiny bit loose, I don't think it will matter. I'll have to take the whole shift linkage out of my car and leave it on stands and drive my dad's car to work and fix it. I would have done it today but I didn't have time. I would never hear the end of it from my fiancee if I spent the entire day till 6 pm on her birthday "playing with my car"
10/23/05, 07:20 AM
#10
Dustin:
My driveway looked exactly like yours on Sat., I even have the same ramps. I was able to install the shifter .. no problems with the bushings. Also, I didn't drop the driveshaft. But, all is not perfect.
Despite lubing the bushings with a generous amount of grease it
is really tight moving the stick across the gate into first. The 1-2 shift is fine and the 3-4 shift is fine. But moving the stick side-side across
the gate is tough. I hope this loosens up. There is also considerable noise going into 2nd or 4th .. but I think this is normal. (I double checked the stops to make sure they are adjusted correctly.)
I've owned (2) SN-95's where I installed a tri-ax and had been
really pleased. This time I am less than thrilled with the results.
My driveway looked exactly like yours on Sat., I even have the same ramps. I was able to install the shifter .. no problems with the bushings. Also, I didn't drop the driveshaft. But, all is not perfect.
Despite lubing the bushings with a generous amount of grease it
is really tight moving the stick across the gate into first. The 1-2 shift is fine and the 3-4 shift is fine. But moving the stick side-side across
the gate is tough. I hope this loosens up. There is also considerable noise going into 2nd or 4th .. but I think this is normal. (I double checked the stops to make sure they are adjusted correctly.)
I've owned (2) SN-95's where I installed a tri-ax and had been
really pleased. This time I am less than thrilled with the results.
10/23/05, 08:14 AM
#11
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
That stinks man. Did you see the 3rd page of the install sheet where it talks about shimming it with washers if it's tight?
I didn't feel comfortable getting the car up on 4 jack stands. My heavy duty jack was too high to fit under the car. So I drove up on ramps and chocked the back wheels with concrete blocks. There's a crossmember that goes under the engine that is notched perfectly for a floor jack. I jacked it up another foot and put jack stands underneath the jacking points behind the wheels as a safety precaution so the car was held up the jack and 2 stands. This got the car up high enough to give my fat stomach plenty clearance to get underneath. I think I'll put the ramps underneath too as a precaution today.
It's stopped raining here so I think I will go try it again and drill out the bushings.
I didn't feel comfortable getting the car up on 4 jack stands. My heavy duty jack was too high to fit under the car. So I drove up on ramps and chocked the back wheels with concrete blocks. There's a crossmember that goes under the engine that is notched perfectly for a floor jack. I jacked it up another foot and put jack stands underneath the jacking points behind the wheels as a safety precaution so the car was held up the jack and 2 stands. This got the car up high enough to give my fat stomach plenty clearance to get underneath. I think I'll put the ramps underneath too as a precaution today.
It's stopped raining here so I think I will go try it again and drill out the bushings.
10/23/05, 05:01 PM
#12
I did see the tech tip with the washers. I had my wife try shifting (while I was under the car) and she said it was fine. Only until driving did I realize it was tough to move side-side. I can try shimming but I don't think a 1/4" will make much difference. I too am going to call Steeda tomorrow to see if they say it is normal and will loosen up.
10/23/05, 06:15 PM
#13
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Alright it was a nightmare but I finally got it installed and I will go into everything that happened.
BEFORE YOU JACK THE CAR UP:
Remove the center console by following this. Unscrew the shifter **** and remove it. Remove the shifter rubber boot while you're at it.
TO JACK THE CAR UP:
I drove up on Rhino Ramps ($30) so I could fit my heavy duty jack under the car. Make sure the e-brake is on. Then I chocked the rear wheels with concrete blocks. Then I used my heavy duty jack to raise the front end about 2 feet off the ground, you can see on the cross member that it is notched perfectly for a floor jack. I placed my 3 ton jack stands under the jacking points behind the front wheels I lowered the floor jack just a little so the car was resting on both jack stands and the jack itself for support. Just for safety I turned the ramps around and stuck em under the wheels.
[attachmentid=36860]
[attachmentid=36861]
To me this gave me a comfortable safety factor to actually get underneath the car.
BEFORE YOU JACK THE CAR UP:
Remove the center console by following this. Unscrew the shifter **** and remove it. Remove the shifter rubber boot while you're at it.
TO JACK THE CAR UP:
I drove up on Rhino Ramps ($30) so I could fit my heavy duty jack under the car. Make sure the e-brake is on. Then I chocked the rear wheels with concrete blocks. Then I used my heavy duty jack to raise the front end about 2 feet off the ground, you can see on the cross member that it is notched perfectly for a floor jack. I placed my 3 ton jack stands under the jacking points behind the front wheels I lowered the floor jack just a little so the car was resting on both jack stands and the jack itself for support. Just for safety I turned the ramps around and stuck em under the wheels.
[attachmentid=36860]
[attachmentid=36861]
To me this gave me a comfortable safety factor to actually get underneath the car.
10/23/05, 07:42 PM
#14
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
TO TAKE OUT THE STOCK SHIFTER:
Suck in your gut and get under the car. This is what your shifter looks like from underneath the car. You do not have to disconnect the driveshaft.
[attachmentid=36863]
Use a 1/2 inch socket wrench to remove the nut that secures the factory shift rod to the shift lever. Pull the shift rod out and let it hang out of the way.
[attachmentid=36864]
Remove the bolt that attaches the shifter arm to the transmission (the silver one in the center of the picture below). Use a 10 mm wrench. This is where those ratchet wrenches you bought will come in handy. If you use a ratchet wrench don't loosen it up too far or you will get stuck and won't be able to get it out. The bolt presses up against the floor pan and the wrench will get stuck. Make sure you have enough clearance.
[attachmentid=36866]
Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the two nuts that that attach the rear shifter mount to the chassis. Since you don't drop the drive shaft you need a long extention to clear it. I used a 20" extension but you might get away with using a 10" one.
[attachmentid=36868]
Now you should be able to wiggle the stock shifter out from under the car through the top.
[attachmentid=36869]
Suck in your gut and get under the car. This is what your shifter looks like from underneath the car. You do not have to disconnect the driveshaft.
[attachmentid=36863]
Use a 1/2 inch socket wrench to remove the nut that secures the factory shift rod to the shift lever. Pull the shift rod out and let it hang out of the way.
[attachmentid=36864]
Remove the bolt that attaches the shifter arm to the transmission (the silver one in the center of the picture below). Use a 10 mm wrench. This is where those ratchet wrenches you bought will come in handy. If you use a ratchet wrench don't loosen it up too far or you will get stuck and won't be able to get it out. The bolt presses up against the floor pan and the wrench will get stuck. Make sure you have enough clearance.
[attachmentid=36866]
Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the two nuts that that attach the rear shifter mount to the chassis. Since you don't drop the drive shaft you need a long extention to clear it. I used a 20" extension but you might get away with using a 10" one.
[attachmentid=36868]
Now you should be able to wiggle the stock shifter out from under the car through the top.
[attachmentid=36869]
10/23/05, 07:56 PM
#15
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
TO ASSEMBLE THE NEW SHIFTER:
Pry the stock metal insert from the stock rubber bushing with a screwdriver and insert them into the bushings in the Steeda shifter.
[attachmentid=36870]
Attach the shifter arm to the base using an Allen L-key with the supplied socket head cap screws.
[attachmentid=36871]
This is a side by side comparison, ignore all the other junk in the background, I am messy.
[attachmentid=36872]
Insert the new silicone bushings on the rear of the shifter
[attachmentid=36873]
Now feed the shifter assembly into the car the same way you took the old one out and let it rest on top of the drive shaft for now.
Pry the stock metal insert from the stock rubber bushing with a screwdriver and insert them into the bushings in the Steeda shifter.
[attachmentid=36870]
Attach the shifter arm to the base using an Allen L-key with the supplied socket head cap screws.
[attachmentid=36871]
This is a side by side comparison, ignore all the other junk in the background, I am messy.
[attachmentid=36872]
Insert the new silicone bushings on the rear of the shifter
[attachmentid=36873]
Now feed the shifter assembly into the car the same way you took the old one out and let it rest on top of the drive shaft for now.
10/23/05, 08:24 PM
#16
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
TO INSTALL THE STEEDA SHIFTER:
Okay this step here is where I had my first major problem. The supplied hex bolt (3/8"-16 X 1") did not thread all the way into the chassis mount. You can see in the picture below that when you thread it all the way in as far as it will go, it sticks out about 1/4". This thing needs to go in flush. Either the threads in the mount were screwed up or the bolt was too long. My guess is that when Steeda welded this thing together, the welding distorted the threads at the bottom.
[attachmentid=36874]
I went to Home Depot and bought a 3/4" long flange bolt and some 3/8" washers just in case. You can see with the shorter bolt that it goes in farther. I'm hoping that this was a fluke, but before you even start the install, make sure the supplied hex bolt screws into the chassis mount all the way. If it doesn't, call Steeda for replacement.
[attachmentid=36875]
Now you can install the chassis mount with a socket wrench with an extension to clear the drive shaft. Make sure the half circle part of the chassis mount is facing toward the front of the car. There is a discrepancy with this part and the supplied directions. The directions show the part has a complete circle in picture 6, and mine is only a half circle. I think they cut this off after the directions were made to clear the frame so it can be flush.
Attach the shifter transmission arm to the transmission the shifter using the 10mm wrench again. Make sure the metal bushing is inserted. I had forgotten to do this and had to take the whole thing out again when I was done to fix it.
[attachmentid=36879]
Now attach the shifter chassis mount to the chassis using your 10mm deep socket again
[attachmentid=36880]
Okay this step here is where I had my first major problem. The supplied hex bolt (3/8"-16 X 1") did not thread all the way into the chassis mount. You can see in the picture below that when you thread it all the way in as far as it will go, it sticks out about 1/4". This thing needs to go in flush. Either the threads in the mount were screwed up or the bolt was too long. My guess is that when Steeda welded this thing together, the welding distorted the threads at the bottom.
[attachmentid=36874]
I went to Home Depot and bought a 3/4" long flange bolt and some 3/8" washers just in case. You can see with the shorter bolt that it goes in farther. I'm hoping that this was a fluke, but before you even start the install, make sure the supplied hex bolt screws into the chassis mount all the way. If it doesn't, call Steeda for replacement.
[attachmentid=36875]
Now you can install the chassis mount with a socket wrench with an extension to clear the drive shaft. Make sure the half circle part of the chassis mount is facing toward the front of the car. There is a discrepancy with this part and the supplied directions. The directions show the part has a complete circle in picture 6, and mine is only a half circle. I think they cut this off after the directions were made to clear the frame so it can be flush.
Attach the shifter transmission arm to the transmission the shifter using the 10mm wrench again. Make sure the metal bushing is inserted. I had forgotten to do this and had to take the whole thing out again when I was done to fix it.
[attachmentid=36879]
Now attach the shifter chassis mount to the chassis using your 10mm deep socket again
[attachmentid=36880]
10/23/05, 08:44 PM
#17
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Now here's where I had my second major problem. Both brass bushings that they supplied did not slide over the factory shift rod. The rod had a .467 diameter and the bushings had .458 diameter holes. That's a problem. 
To top it off, the smaller of the two bushings did not fit into the hole on the Steeda shift lever. The larger bushing had a .620 diameter flange and the smaller one had a .625 flange on it. Lucky for me I have access to a fully equipped machine shop at work I used the lathe to drill both bushings out using a 15/32 (.4588) drill and I turned down the smaller bushing flange from .625 diameter to .620 diameter. The parts fit awesome after that 
[attachmentid=36884]
Now assuming the brass bushings you have are good, spray them down with white lithium grease. Insert the bigger one onto the factory shift rod, fat side first. Then insert it into the Steeda shifter. Then slide the smaller brass bushing over the factory shift rod, skinny side first. The Steeda directions say to temporarily install the nut you removed in the beginning, not sure why but do it anyway. Later you will remove this nut and install the new, smaller nut they supply. It should look like this.
[attachmentid=36891]
[attachmentid=36892]
To top it off, the smaller of the two bushings did not fit into the hole on the Steeda shift lever. The larger bushing had a .620 diameter flange and the smaller one had a .625 flange on it. Lucky for me I have access to a fully equipped machine shop at work I used the lathe to drill both bushings out using a 15/32 (.4588) drill and I turned down the smaller bushing flange from .625 diameter to .620 diameter. The parts fit awesome after that [attachmentid=36884]
Now assuming the brass bushings you have are good, spray them down with white lithium grease. Insert the bigger one onto the factory shift rod, fat side first. Then insert it into the Steeda shifter. Then slide the smaller brass bushing over the factory shift rod, skinny side first. The Steeda directions say to temporarily install the nut you removed in the beginning, not sure why but do it anyway. Later you will remove this nut and install the new, smaller nut they supply. It should look like this.
[attachmentid=36891]
[attachmentid=36892]
10/23/05, 09:06 PM
#18
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
INSTALL SHIFTER ARM:
Now in these pictures it shows me installing the shift arm on the left side, DO IT ON THE RIGHT SIDE or it looks funny when you're finished. I had to redo it. Use the bottom holes too, it sits nice and low and the throws will be shorter.
[attachmentid=36896]
[attachmentid=36916]
SET SHIFTER STOPS:
Now the hard part is done, time to set the shifter stops. Back off all the stop bolts if they already aren't. Put the shifter in 3rd gear and adjust the front stop bolt until it touches the shifter. Then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten the nut with a 1/2" wrench, leaving a .015" gap between the shifter and the bolt. THERE MUST BE A GAP! Then put the shifter in second gear and do the same song and dance with the back stop bolt. Shift through all the gears and make sure the gap is good through all gears.
[attachmentid=36900]
When everything is all set, go back underneath the car and install the new flange nut they provide onto the factory shift rod. I don't know why they don't have you do it in the first place.
Now I would temporarily screw on the shifter **** and take it for a drive. If something doesn't feel right or it feels tight, the directions show you how to fix it by shimming it with washers. Besides it looks cool driving around and being able to see the drive shaft spinning.
Everything felt good on mine, except 5th gear and reverse are tight, it takes more effort to move the stick all the way to the right. This may get better over time.
If everything is fine and dandy, stretch the rubber boot over the shifter base (this part is difficult because the base is bigger now but you will get it) and reassemble the center console.
When it was all over with and even after all the aggrivation I'm really happy with the shifter. The shifts are nice and crisp and the gears are real notchy. The throws I think are cut down by about a third to a half. When you shift it does make a nice clang when you hit the stop bolts, although my ball and chain got annoyed with it right away.
I just wish I didn't have all these problems......
Tomorrow I will post a movie of me driving with it :drive:
Now in these pictures it shows me installing the shift arm on the left side, DO IT ON THE RIGHT SIDE or it looks funny when you're finished. I had to redo it. Use the bottom holes too, it sits nice and low and the throws will be shorter.
[attachmentid=36896]
[attachmentid=36916]
SET SHIFTER STOPS:
Now the hard part is done, time to set the shifter stops. Back off all the stop bolts if they already aren't. Put the shifter in 3rd gear and adjust the front stop bolt until it touches the shifter. Then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten the nut with a 1/2" wrench, leaving a .015" gap between the shifter and the bolt. THERE MUST BE A GAP! Then put the shifter in second gear and do the same song and dance with the back stop bolt. Shift through all the gears and make sure the gap is good through all gears.
[attachmentid=36900]
When everything is all set, go back underneath the car and install the new flange nut they provide onto the factory shift rod. I don't know why they don't have you do it in the first place.
Now I would temporarily screw on the shifter **** and take it for a drive. If something doesn't feel right or it feels tight, the directions show you how to fix it by shimming it with washers. Besides it looks cool driving around and being able to see the drive shaft spinning.
Everything felt good on mine, except 5th gear and reverse are tight, it takes more effort to move the stick all the way to the right. This may get better over time.
If everything is fine and dandy, stretch the rubber boot over the shifter base (this part is difficult because the base is bigger now but you will get it) and reassemble the center console.
When it was all over with and even after all the aggrivation I'm really happy with the shifter. The shifts are nice and crisp and the gears are real notchy. The throws I think are cut down by about a third to a half. When you shift it does make a nice clang when you hit the stop bolts, although my ball and chain got annoyed with it right away.
I just wish I didn't have all these problems......
Tomorrow I will post a movie of me driving with it :drive:
10/24/05, 05:38 AM
#19
Dustin:
Awesome write-up, dude! Question: Did you use the 'White' nylon washer along with the brass bushings when you assembled the shift linkage to the Tri-ax (can't tell from the pictures)? This was not supplied with mine and since they said it was optional I proceeded without it. But I do notice a little rattle from the Brass Bushings, which is what that washer was supposed to alleviate ...
Awesome write-up, dude! Question: Did you use the 'White' nylon washer along with the brass bushings when you assembled the shift linkage to the Tri-ax (can't tell from the pictures)? This was not supplied with mine and since they said it was optional I proceeded without it. But I do notice a little rattle from the Brass Bushings, which is what that washer was supposed to alleviate ...