Here's a few pics. I bought the headers used and got the X-pipe from American Muscle. Didn't have any issues with the install - just had to remove the starter, motor mount brackets, steering shaft, and I reused the OEM gaskets. Used Stage 8 locking bolts with tabs that don't reach the pipe to lock anyway. Is this a known issue with these?

The sound is just short of wicked. From 2500-3000RPM it has a loud Flowmaster type sound, but like stock at idle. The car pulls harder up top for sure and it IS louder, but not obnoxiously so.











I will get better video tomorrow but here's a tease:
http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...=031308021.flv
http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...=031308020.flv

 

So how long did it take you to install the headers? Any tips you care to share? I'll be installing JBA shorties in a couple weeks so any advice is welcome.

 

May I ask why you went with the shorties over LT's?

 

Wratcheting box-end wrenches are a life-saver!

 

Long tubes cost over $500. Mine cost me $140 used and I cleaned them up so they looked brand new. Then, I used a 10% discount code for the X-pipe from American Muscle. In total, the entire setup cost me $350 including the Stage 8 bolts. I just didn't want to spend that much on longtubes.

 

I agree! Man, I wish I would have had an 11mm one for those locking header bolts. Those were a pain! My set has 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 ,18mm.

 

I was wondering with your username as "embalmer" and your avatar "I see dead people" are you a mortician?

 

You are correct, sir! I'm a licensed funeral director/embalmer at Jones Funeral Homes in Dixon and Amboy, Illinois. Originally from the south side of Chicago I went to mortuary college in Cincinnati where I met my wife of 13 years. She is also a funeral director/embalmer but is not practicing because we have 3 small children. It's a very time consuming job being on call a lot but it can be rewarding helping people when they need you the most.

 

That's cool! I would rather hang around with the group in my avatar though~

 

Still looking for the time question.. I'll be helping Leo do the shorty install and am wondering how many hours can it be done in.

Q's:
Did you remove the motor mount brackets off the block both sides at the same time?

Was one side easier than the other?

In accessing the manifold/header bolts, was it easier to access them from the top or bottom?

Besides a ratcheting box wrench, any other specialized tools required for the job?

 

Dream on Rich!

 

Sad but true ~

 

Let's see...time...
I started this in the afternoon, removed the H-pipe, getting to those 02 sensor harness disconnects behind the motor was a challenge. Then I removed the steering shaft pinch bolt and loosened the 2 bolts inside the car where the shaft passes through the firewall. This gives you a little bit more play to remove the shaft from the coupling and slide it up out of the way. Then, unbolted my CHE brace links from the tranny so the motor could be jacked up. Then, I loosened the manifold studs on both sides. Since I was using the Stage 8 locking bolts I broke the factory nut loose, then used a 1/4 drive ratchet and 5mm socket on the studs. The mount brackets were loosened at the motor on both sides, then I jacked up the motor. The starter has to be removed, but I left it connected to the wires and just let it hang down. Next, the dipstick tube must be unbolted from the head and removed so you can install the headers. This is where I quit for the night because my brain wasn't working properly. I needed to remove the bolts for the motor mounts (mine are the Prothane bullet ones) and for that you need an 8mm Allen head wrench. I was trying to use my 90 degree Allen wrench but I couldn't turn it at all because there is no clearance down there. The solution didn't present itself until I got some sleep and came back the next morning. Total time that day by myself was 5 hours.

The next day I had a helper who suggested I use the 8mm Allen head socket sitting in my tool chest to remove the motor mount bolts. I'd forgotten that I bought it last year for that exact reason. They come out really easy with the right tool! With the mount bolts out, I removed both brackets and the manifolds came right out. I reused the OEM gaskets for the FRPP headers. Getting them lined up and the bolts installed is a pain, not to mention installing the clips on the locking bolts after getting the flags in position. The ratcheting 11mm would have come in really handy here! This was time consuming. The driver side header requires that you swap the 02 sensor over before installing it. Then, we installed the starter before the pass. side mount bracket, which was a mistake, so I had to remove the starter again to facilitate the bracket going in. The rest is reverse of the beginning and my new X-pipe bolted right in with no problems.

I don't recall needing any special tools except my 8mm Allen socket. I used various extensions, swivels and 1/2, 3/8 & 1/4 drives. I would say the second day took us 6 hours before we started it up @ 10:00 PM.

The upper manifold bolts were easier from up top and the lower ones easier from the bottom, but more so when the motor was jacked up and the starter and mount brackets removed. I supported the motor with a floor jack and a block of wood, and yes I removed both mount brackets at the same time.

Any more questions???

 

Thanks for the quick reply! Gives me a better understanding on what's all involved in the swap.

I'm sure if Leo has any more questions, he'll ask it here.

 

This is not the first time i heard that the Stage 8 Locking bolts are kind of useless in our application as they are not long enough to reach the header tubes. I think i may use them where they will work and stick with the JBA bolts and Washers in the other spots. I will be doing my Prothane MM at the same time as well.

 

Wow sounds like I'm in for a hell of a time. Good thing is I'll have 4-5 sets of hands willing to help. Or atleast that's what I'm hoping for. Beer and Pizza is a good pursuer.

 

Here is a dyno vid - my first pull was N/A and I made 297hp/312tq.


Second pull video didn't take, but the number on a 75hp shot of juice were 353hp/411tq with a slightly rich 12.0 a/f.

Not entirely sure why my exhaust has that resonating sound around 2500 RPM though, and it sounds a bit like my ignition was breaking up at high rpm on the dyno.

 

Pretty cool brotha!

 

Nice I have JBA shorties, my mod was more for a better look under the hood than performance. But I'll take whatever ponies it has to offer!

Jed