GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Shocks/Struts/Springs...on a budget.

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Old 9/20/09 | 06:32 PM
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Shocks/Struts/Springs...on a budget.

hey guys my car is a weekend driver and im looking for a nice setup but i want to keep the price around $800-$900 for shocks and struts with springs. In the spring/summer months i will be making passes at the track, i dont auto x my car, and i drive fairly aggressive. Just some track time and weekend driving when its nice out. I still want a nice quality setup that handles great but i dont know if i want to spend money on konis. Should i take a chance with the D-specs even though theres all these issues with warranty? they are an affordable kit and have heard great things when they are actually work with no issues. Theres also FRPP(not sure what they go for), and theres also suspension packages out there? whats the best possible setup for the $800-$900 range, maybe i'll stretch it to $1,000.
Old 9/20/09 | 06:42 PM
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ah crap i spelt budget wrong lol.
Old 9/20/09 | 07:40 PM
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Suspension in one area where I would wait and save up enough money to get what I wanted. Having said that I am happy with my Vogtland springs and D-Specs. What are your suspension goals? 1/4 mile, road racing? I would call Sam Strano and he will help you.
Old 9/20/09 | 09:32 PM
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I just finished installing vogtland springs and Koni STr shocks/struts from Hotpart for around $600. Moderate drop, huge imporvement in ride.
Old 9/20/09 | 09:41 PM
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Classic Design Concepts has some great deals on suspension parts leftover from the Foose Stallion Mustangs. I bought a hood and a pair of struts. This might be what you are looking for:

http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com...t_detail&p=152

FRPP struts and shocks plus a larger rear bar and performance (non-lowering) springs for $350.
Old 9/21/09 | 04:32 AM
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You could always pick up some Tokico D-Spec shocks for under $600 all around and springs for less than $300 depending on where you order them from and what kind you get. Don't forget the panhard bar!
Old 9/21/09 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Antigini-GT/CS
You could always pick up some Tokico D-Spec shocks for under $600 all around and springs for less than $300 depending on where you order them from and what kind you get. Don't forget the panhard bar!
that might be the way to go, d-specs and springs of my choice. Could still be a nice performance setup depending on the springs i go with.now all i got to do is search for springs and i should be set in this area of mods.
Old 9/21/09 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by classix_stang289
that might be the way to go, d-specs and springs of my choice. Could still be a nice performance setup depending on the springs i go with.now all i got to do is search for springs and i should be set in this area of mods.
Good choice! I have the Eibach pro kit, and I plan to get some D-Specs soon. I have heard nothing but good things about them. As mentioned above, you will probably need an adjustable panhard rod to re-center the rear after lowering. Otherwise it may be off to one side about .75 to 1 inch.
FYI, I also got an adjustable BMR UCA. This allows you to keep the driveshaft angle at -3 degrees, which is ideal. It's kinda a PITA to install because of the gas tank being in the way.
Old 9/21/09 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by topoffGT
Good choice! I have the Eibach pro kit, and I plan to get some D-Specs soon. I have heard nothing but good things about them. As mentioned above, you will probably need an adjustable panhard rod to re-center the rear after lowering. Otherwise it may be off to one side about .75 to 1 inch.
FYI, I also got an adjustable BMR UCA. This allows you to keep the driveshaft angle at -3 degrees, which is ideal. It's kinda a PITA to install because of the gas tank being in the way.
the rearend is off almost an inch even with stock ride height lol. i noticed when i put the larger rear wheels.

thanks for the headsup, i was planning on getting a LCA/UCA setup as well. probably steeda chromoly.
Old 9/21/09 | 05:55 PM
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I paid $660 shipped for Konis from shox.com and $175 shipped from www.latemodelrestoration.com. Koni's went up $120 dollars since July. I'd recommend Koni yellows and Vogtland springs from www.stranoparts.com for $1020.
Old 9/21/09 | 06:22 PM
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The web is great and all... but how many of the respondents have experience with more than one setup? It behooves you to talk to folks who have run various things, and more over that can offer various things. I'm leary of those that only sell say one brand of damper or spring--they have a **** good reason to push you that way which is why I make sure I have multiple brands available... I also have some small level of experience with them.

I don't know you need Koni Sports, though they rock. Koni STR.T's are a great budget shock. I had D-spec myself, there is no comparison to the Koni Sport. I also sell Bilstein, though not a great choice with lowering springs.
Old 9/21/09 | 06:22 PM
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I have Eibach pro and D-specs, very happy with the results.
Old 9/22/09 | 01:11 PM
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FWIW, a customer of mine just posted a review of his STR.T Koni's on another site. The thread is longer, and worth a read, but keeping it on topic here's what he had to say about the shock change:

"Now then, on to the parts themselves. I know I'm not the only one out there that is generally pretty pleased with the performance of their Mustang right off the dealer lot, and doesn't think it requires an immediate change to dropped sport springs and expensive shocks. Again, I'm not making a racing machine here, so I didn't need (or want) the adjustable high performance omega shocks that a lot of guys here run. I'm not lowered, and won't be since the ground clearance comes in handy for me. I don't autocross or drag race, or take it out to track days (yet anyway, I'd love to at some point) I just enjoy driving it on the street. Curvy roads and highway interchanges are fun that I can have safely and legally (without endangering others). Now if you're like me, and just want to tame some jitters on a street car that otherwise works good for you, I would heartily recommend these, without hesitation.

I put 'em on the car yesterday afternoon. Took about an hour, mostly cause I was looking for a deepwell 15mm 1/2"drive socket in a pile of loose tools, and was plenty easy to do myself in the driveway. (Mind you I only did the rears, rather than all four corners. The fronts would add considerably to the required time.) As soon as the car was off the jack-stands and rolling down the driveway I could feel a difference. Really they honestly made it feel like a whole new car. It's very akin to that initial step from the Escort to the Mustang. No more twitchy shaking from the rear, you hit a bump and it goes kinda: bump-done, where previously it was: bump-drop-shimmy-done. The rear end after putting these on is, to put it as simply as possible, settled. Calm would be a good word too.

The whole rear of the car is more stable, balanced, and far easier to control. Every aspect of the rear end behavior is improved. It stays more level through the turns, keeping the tires where they need to be for traction. Previously it didn't take a whole lot of pedal to get the car to break free going around right turns (often doing it unintentionally) now, even in the heavy rain we got this morning I was driving in, it's far less willing to step out on me. I'm sure I could do it intentionally, but I don't think I'll be accidentally sliding around right turns any more.

As far as those twisty bits of my daily commute go... the tight parts I used to take at 35, right where the tires started complaining are now quiet as going in a straight line. I don't know how much more I could tack on through it, but it would take me significantly over the legal posted speed, so I won't be finding out. Oh yeah, it certainly seems to hook better in a straight line now too. Haven't had a chance to run my daily freeway stuff cause of the rain, but I'm sure I'll notice just as much an increase is poise and control there too.

A lot of people think the first mod for these cars should be bolting another 25 horses under the hood... I'm pretty convinced that if you're just running a street car that you want to be able to enjoy on the road, a set of Koni STR.Ts is probably a far better investment (and I've only done the rears). And I can't think of a better guy to send you to than Sam Strano."

FWIW....
Old 9/22/09 | 01:17 PM
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Well heck Sam, here I was about to come in here and mention that. But you beat me to it. Glad you saw the post.
Old 9/23/09 | 01:21 PM
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I did, and I appreciate when folks take the time to break down their results for others... Great information.
Old 9/24/09 | 09:45 AM
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I'll second that, I replaced all 4 shocks with STR.Ts and I'm really impressed with the differece they make. I'm not a track person either, so the smoother ride was worth the ridiculously low cost for these shocks and springs. Luckily I'm military and have access to a fully stocked auto garage with lifts, and install took me about two hours total (after I figured out how to remove the rear shocks) One thing that helped me was I also orderded GT500 Strut Mounts, so I was able to put the whole new strut assembly together and just swap the old ones out withing 10 mins each side.
Old 9/24/09 | 10:48 AM
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You didn't swap the dustboots and bumpstops out from the stock struts????
Old 9/24/09 | 10:56 PM
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My advice- don't go cheap on suspension or brake components. It will only give you headaches later on. This is probably more info than you wanted, but here it is.

Koni dampers- orange or yellow are well worth the money. Tokico dampers are alright also, and are still much better than the stock GT ones.

For nice, moderately low, street springs- I'd recommend the Eibach Pro/Ford Racing K springs, Vogtland springs OR H&R super sport springs. My favorite being the H&R ones (extremely high quality).

For better handling (in this order):
1- tires (better compound, size, PSI)
2- springs and dampers (springs- rates, amount of lowering/normal travel; dampers- rebound and compression rates*, stroke travel*)
3- front and rear anti-roll bars (diameter, endlink attachment points)
4- steering angles {if necessary or desired for racing} (caster**, camber, toe)

*the dampers should always match the springs
**caster usually doesn't need to be adjusted, but some racers do
Old 9/25/09 | 08:26 AM
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Would Koni STR.T's match some Ford Racing K springs? I would like to buy the Ford Racing set and the Koni set for a budget setup.
Old 9/25/09 | 09:27 AM
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Yes, they should, very well actually. I run the Koni Yellows and Ford Racing K Springs.


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