Serious wheel hop problems
11/12/05, 12:34 AM
#1
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Went to the track tonight hoping to run 12's with my new clutch and tires but I ran into some problems. First I had the tire pressure wrong so I was spinning like crazy off the line. Once I fixed that I got 1 run in with the correct tire pressure. I lauched good but I got some HUGE wheel hop. Are there any suspension mods that can help this? Making me mad that I keep missing out on 12's.
11/12/05, 01:06 AM
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well, if you look at my mods...the 410 gears are waaaaaaaay too much for my stock tires and I was spinning through first and was still able to get that low 60 foot with those signature listed mods without the headers and shocks. They will net you the traction that you require and without the wheelhop, you should be able to hit that 12second zone without any more trouble.
I am quite aware that I could have already pulled a 12 second run without the nitrous with my mods but Im testing the traction limits of the stock crappy tires to see how far they can get me. Once I hit that high 12 though I will invest in those "drag wheels" and drag radials. I'll need them anyways when I use the nitrous again on the strip. Hello 11s, you'll be my b.i.t.c.h. very soon.
-Dan
I am quite aware that I could have already pulled a 12 second run without the nitrous with my mods but Im testing the traction limits of the stock crappy tires to see how far they can get me. Once I hit that high 12 though I will invest in those "drag wheels" and drag radials. I'll need them anyways when I use the nitrous again on the strip. Hello 11s, you'll be my b.i.t.c.h. very soon.
-Dan
11/12/05, 10:08 AM
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11/12/05, 12:44 PM
#8
Originally posted by Cleveland@November 12, 2005, 3:52 AM
Check my signature, pick any one of those suspension mods. You should be good to go but I suggest BMR LCAs over anything else.
-Dan
Check my signature, pick any one of those suspension mods. You should be good to go but I suggest BMR LCAs over anything else.
-Dan
John
11/12/05, 03:41 PM
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11/12/05, 04:31 PM
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Originally posted by jp's performance@November 12, 2005, 4:44 PM
your problem is your tires the best i could get with the 275x40x17-nitto dr was 1.87 with the 3.55's and stock lca's get the non adj bmr lower's my best 60ft=n/a is 1.66 best 60ft with nitrous is 1.57 with 4.30's and et streets let us know how you make out after you get a set.
your problem is your tires the best i could get with the 275x40x17-nitto dr was 1.87 with the 3.55's and stock lca's get the non adj bmr lower's my best 60ft=n/a is 1.66 best 60ft with nitrous is 1.57 with 4.30's and et streets let us know how you make out after you get a set.
This was a little disturbing since I did pull a 1.9 with stock tires and clutch. I might do 4.10's and the control arms.
I have a vid of the launch I'm talking about. You can hear the wheel hop.
http://media.putfile.com/shifty1-1
11/12/05, 06:48 PM
#11
Originally posted by Shifty@November 12, 2005, 6:34 PM
I have a vid of the launch I'm talking about. You can hear the wheel hop.http://media.putfile.com/shifty1-1[/url]
I have a vid of the launch I'm talking about. You can hear the wheel hop.http://media.putfile.com/shifty1-1[/url]
11/14/05, 07:05 AM
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Shifty, your car will definately benefit with some control arms. Tubular non-adjustable with polyurethane bushings would be best. If you go with the race version, you will have a harsher ride on the street do to the rod ends in the control arms. A combination of control arms and some good tires will eliminate your wheel hop. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason/BMR
Jason/BMR
11/14/05, 09:38 AM
#13
Originally posted by BMR Fabrication Inc.@November 14, 2005, 10:08 AM
Shifty, your car will definately benefit with some control arms. Tubular non-adjustable with polyurethane bushings would be best. If you go with the race version, you will have a harsher ride on the street do to the rod ends in the control arms. A combination of control arms and some good tires will eliminate your wheel hop. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason/BMR
Shifty, your car will definately benefit with some control arms. Tubular non-adjustable with polyurethane bushings would be best. If you go with the race version, you will have a harsher ride on the street do to the rod ends in the control arms. A combination of control arms and some good tires will eliminate your wheel hop. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason/BMR
Thanks.
John
11/14/05, 10:13 AM
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I still recommend the non adjustable with polyurethane bushings. The race version are geared more towards someone who is racing all the time. It is more or less a solid mount (teflon lined rod ends) without bushings so you can understand the noise factor of driving on the street with these. The non adjustable I recommend are going to be way stronger than the factory arms, which will eliminate any control arm flex that is happening. At the same time, you are replacing the factory rubber bushings with a polyurethane bushing that will not give as much. So you have a more solid piece with a stiffer bushing at the same time which creates less deflection and equals more traction.
Jason/BMR
Jason/BMR
11/14/05, 10:33 AM
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Originally posted by dustindu4@November 12, 2005, 6:51 PM
oh that's what wheel hop is? I always thought it was my car jumping up and down with excitement that it gets to race.
oh that's what wheel hop is? I always thought it was my car jumping up and down with excitement that it gets to race.
11/14/05, 10:37 AM
#17
Originally posted by BMR Fabrication Inc.@November 14, 2005, 1:16 PM
I still recommend the non adjustable with polyurethane bushings. The race version are geared more towards someone who is racing all the time. It is more or less a solid mount (teflon lined rod ends) without bushings so you can understand the noise factor of driving on the street with these. The non adjustable I recommend are going to be way stronger than the factory arms, which will eliminate any control arm flex that is happening. At the same time, you are replacing the factory rubber bushings with a polyurethane bushing that will not give as much. So you have a more solid piece with a stiffer bushing at the same time which creates less deflection and equals more traction.
Jason/BMR
I still recommend the non adjustable with polyurethane bushings. The race version are geared more towards someone who is racing all the time. It is more or less a solid mount (teflon lined rod ends) without bushings so you can understand the noise factor of driving on the street with these. The non adjustable I recommend are going to be way stronger than the factory arms, which will eliminate any control arm flex that is happening. At the same time, you are replacing the factory rubber bushings with a polyurethane bushing that will not give as much. So you have a more solid piece with a stiffer bushing at the same time which creates less deflection and equals more traction.
Jason/BMR
John
11/14/05, 04:01 PM
#18
Originally posted by jwgroovin@November 14, 2005, 8:41 AM
and will invest in some cheap Weld Wheels
and will invest in some cheap Weld Wheels
11/14/05, 08:00 PM
#19
Originally posted by don_w@November 14, 2005, 7:04 PM
Good luck finding some that will bolt right on...
Good luck finding some that will bolt right on...
11/14/05, 09:34 PM
#20
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Originally posted by BMR Fabrication Inc.@November 14, 2005, 8:08 AM
Shifty, your car will definately benefit with some control arms. Tubular non-adjustable with polyurethane bushings would be best. If you go with the race version, you will have a harsher ride on the street do to the rod ends in the control arms. A combination of control arms and some good tires will eliminate your wheel hop. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason/BMR
Shifty, your car will definately benefit with some control arms. Tubular non-adjustable with polyurethane bushings would be best. If you go with the race version, you will have a harsher ride on the street do to the rod ends in the control arms. A combination of control arms and some good tires will eliminate your wheel hop. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jason/BMR