GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Rotorpros Cross-Drilled/Gas Slotted rotors install (w/pics)

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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:01 AM
  #201  
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I didn't paint mine. No rust yet. But I don't drive it when there is salt on the road.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 05:38 AM
  #202  
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Thanks everyone.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by mrkabc
Bill, do you ever DRIVE your 'Stang??!??

I have NEVER seen such clean calipers, dust boots, etc... OMG that is AMAZING!!!

Great write up as usual! My question is: Did you notice any improvement in stopping power as a result of the new rotors?
check out how white those shop gloves of his are
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 09:46 AM
  #204  
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Bringing this thread back. It's been quite a while since it was started and I'd imagine that a lot of miles have been put on the rotors & pads from Rotorpros since then. Question for you guys with these rotors & pads (specifically the drilled & slotted) that drive your car every day, rain or shine (sorry and no offense to garage queens or dry weather machines only, your driving situations don't apply to me), but how have they held up? If you painted them prior to installation to address the rust issue (even for the zinc coated rotors), has it held up and did you prime before painting, or just throw on a few thin coats of hi-temp?
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 12:16 PM
  #205  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by MTAS
Bringing this thread back. It's been quite a while since it was started and I'd imagine that a lot of miles have been put on the rotors & pads from Rotorpros since then. Question for you guys with these rotors & pads (specifically the drilled & slotted) that drive your car every day, rain or shine (sorry and no offense to garage queens or dry weather machines only, your driving situations don't apply to me), but how have they held up? If you painted them prior to installation to address the rust issue (even for the zinc coated rotors), has it held up and did you prime before painting, or just throw on a few thin coats of hi-temp?

My car is a DD'er rain or shine. I have had the drilled and slotted Rotorpros since around Thanksgiving last year. I have the zinc plated type and did not add any paint to mine. I have very little rust anywhere on the rotors. The holes and slots get a fair amount of brake dust on them but I use a good spray on wheel cleaner that cuts brake dust and it cleans them up very nice. So 10 months later I still think this was a good mod that make the car look better also. I also did Earl's SS brake lines at the same time and they give a great feel to the brake pedal.
Scott
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #206  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
My car is a DD'er rain or shine. I have had the drilled and slotted Rotorpros since around Thanksgiving last year. I have the zinc plated type and did not add any paint to mine. I have very little rust anywhere on the rotors. The holes and slots get a fair amount of brake dust on them but I use a good spray on wheel cleaner that cuts brake dust and it cleans them up very nice. So 10 months later I still think this was a good mod that make the car look better also. I also did Earl's SS brake lines at the same time and they give a great feel to the brake pedal.
Scott
Thanks Scott that's what I was hoping to hear
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 09:35 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
My car is a DD'er rain or shine. I have had the drilled and slotted Rotorpros since around Thanksgiving last year. I have the zinc plated type and did not add any paint to mine. I have very little rust anywhere on the rotors. The holes and slots get a fair amount of brake dust on them but I use a good spray on wheel cleaner that cuts brake dust and it cleans them up very nice. So 10 months later I still think this was a good mod that make the car look better also. I also did Earl's SS brake lines at the same time and they give a great feel to the brake pedal.
Scott
got any current pics?
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 03:56 AM
  #208  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by Boltzman
got any current pics?

I will take a few after work tonight.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #209  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by Boltzman
got any current pics?

As promised. They are holding up pretty good. The are about 9-10 months on the car and maybe 10K miles. Driving in rain or shine. Even seen some of the winter salt here in Ohio. Now my Steeda lugnuts is another story.
Attached Thumbnails Rotorpros Cross-Drilled/Gas Slotted rotors install (w/pics)-rototpros1.jpg   Rotorpros Cross-Drilled/Gas Slotted rotors install (w/pics)-rotorpros2.jpg  
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 03:18 PM
  #210  
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seem to be holding up nicely
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 06:31 AM
  #211  
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Hi I just got some of these in the mail. Is it normal with these that the fronts have 4 drilled holes and the rears have 3 holes? Tacobills pictures have 4 and 4. Im confused.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Mxyzptlk
Hi I just got some of these in the mail. Is it normal with these that the fronts have 4 drilled holes and the rears have 3 holes? Tacobills pictures have 4 and 4. Im confused.
My front has four holes..and my rear has three holes (sorry no picture). I've seen the all zinc version of these rotors with 4 holes front and rear from Rotor Pro's. Not sure on their logic why they do that.

Jed

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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #213  
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I think it has to do with room. The front rotors are larger arnt they?
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 11:23 AM
  #214  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by Mxyzptlk
Hi I just got some of these in the mail. Is it normal with these that the fronts have 4 drilled holes and the rears have 3 holes? Tacobills pictures have 4 and 4. Im confused.

My zinc coated rears also have only 3 holes. I am sure it is because of the smaller diameter.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:17 AM
  #215  
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Great thanks!
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 03:49 PM
  #216  
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Angry

Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Mco05gt,
You were absolutely correct. The rear calipers turn clockwise with the special tools I got at Autozone tonight. I have done some searching on how to adjust the rear brakes and have come up with a few hits. It appears they are self adjusting and you just pull up on the parking brake handle a number of times and that is it. If anyone has any additional info please jump in.
Thanks Scott
How many turns does it take to bottom that the piston out? I'm at the point now where I'm ready to douse the car with gasoline and light it. I've turned that **** piston for what seems like days and still can't get enough clearance to slip it over the rotor. This is fun!
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #217  
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Until its all the way in.....
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #218  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by MTAS
How many turns does it take to bottom that the piston out? I'm at the point now where I'm ready to douse the car with gasoline and light it. I've turned that **** piston for what seems like days and still can't get enough clearance to slip it over the rotor. This is fun!

I am old and that experience was like 10 months ago but as I remember it was like 2 - 2 1/2 turns on the rears. Do you have the bleeders open so you are not pushing against the hydraulic pressure in the lines? I know this sounds dumb but.............
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #219  
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push and turn
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #220  
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Push and turn is right, I did not count, but kept going until the piston was in almost all the way flush.
I did not open the bleeders, just make sure your reservoir cap is off and keep an eye on it as not to over flow it.
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