GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #1  
silversky545's Avatar
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Road racing

What would you guys think the best set up be for a daily driven gt and weekend road race (road course track) car?

I have the following:
07 gt 5 speed
Mods so far: JLT cai
Bbk throttle body
Off road x
Cat back
Sct 93 octane custom race tune

My thoughts :
Eibach sport line plus system
18 in wheels 9 up front 10.5 out back
Brembo brack system front and rear

Mods in question:
Turbo
Prosbetter for daily driven and can make more power when I park the car and only race her)
Cons: not very good when used for road racing
Supercharger
Pros: cheaper , better for road racing
Cons: not so great for a daily and not as fun as a turbo :-)
N/a heads cam intake
Pros: great for road racing and fun to have 400+ whp n/a
Cons:not very reliable daily in traffic and what not
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #2  
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From: Houston, TX
Let me say something about the wheel sizes... if you have smaller in the front and wider in the rear it creates understear... Wich you don't want if youre rode racing.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #3  
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From: Cleburne, Tx
Supercharger not good for daily driving???
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #4  
cpotts13's Avatar
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by silversky545
What would you guys think the best set up be for a daily driven gt and weekend road race (road course track) car?

I have the following:
07 gt 5 speed
Mods so far: JLT cai
Bbk throttle body
Off road x
Cat back
Sct 93 octane custom race tune

My thoughts :
Eibach sport line plus system
18 in wheels 9 up front 10.5 out back
Brembo brack system front and rear

Mods in question:
Turbo
Prosbetter for daily driven and can make more power when I park the car and only race her)
Cons: not very good when used for road racing
Supercharger
Pros: cheaper , better for road racing
Cons: not so great for a daily and not as fun as a turbo :-)
N/a heads cam intake
Pros: great for road racing and fun to have 400+ whp n/a
Cons:not very reliable daily in traffic and what not
Anything can be safe, that same thing that was safe can also be made dangerous.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #5  
silversky545's Avatar
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I'm new to road racing very early in the learning process... I know the most important thing about road racing is the the driver, I plan on going to a racing school to learn how to drive first and foremost.... So I apologize if I come across ignorant in some categories....

One guy said something about safe.... I have no idea what you are talking about.

I never herd of the staggered wheel size being a problem road racing... New to me I will look into it...
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 05:04 AM
  #6  
cpotts13's Avatar
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by silversky545
I'm new to road racing very early in the learning process... I know the most important thing about road racing is the the driver, I plan on going to a racing school to learn how to drive first and foremost.... So I apologize if I come across ignorant in some categories....

One guy said something about safe.... I have no idea what you are talking about.

I never herd of the staggered wheel size being a problem road racing... New to me I will look into it...
Safe as in roll cage and multi point seat belt!
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #7  
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From: El Paso, Tx
When it comes to road racing, power is NOT what you want to focus on, especially with a Mustang. Brakes are something you'll want. I didn't go with the GT500 Brembos I had originally wanted, but instead opted for Powerslot slotted rotors front/rear, Hawk HP+ pads all around, stainless steel lines and some very good fluid. I'm very pleased with this setup and they only faded under EXTREME and incredibly harsh braking standards.

Tires are good. I would get a spare set of wheels for your track tires. You want to try and keep as "square" a contact patch as possible, so don't stagger them. Front grip is just as important as the rear. Along with this, consider some negative camber. I've read a lot of Mustang road racers like -1 degree, but you could go with a bit more and still be okay. Since its a daily driver, i'd probably leave it around -1.5ish. You will need camber plates which most coilovers come with, or you can buy some for your shocks. Also do some homework about your tire choice. There is quite a bit out there to choose from.

Suspension. Yeah, you want some of this.

Safety. Buy a helmet if you don't have one already. saferacer.com has awesome deals. I also suggest some gloves. Don't want to mess up that leather wrapped wheel(if you have one). A harness bar isn't a bad idea. I can tell you from personal experience the stock seats SUCK. They may feel like they do a good job of holding you in on the streets, but the track is a completely different story. Depending on your build, you may want to consider a harness. I wouldn't go so far as to say a seat.

I hope this helps.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #8  
yeeharacing's Avatar
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From: NJ
Like they said you want the same size tires all around.... You want to keep the car as balanced as possible. The better balanced the car the better handling it will be.
I would go with upgrading the brakes first, then 5-point harness and seat with a harness bar or a roll cage. When you've got the car handling the way you want and your hitting your apex consistently then start messing with the drivetrain.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #9  
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dly
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Just thinking about what some people are saying about stagged wheels and tire sizes. I'm no expert at this (4 Mustang days at the Tire Rack Test Track and a short session at Gingerman Raceway and I just join my local SCCA club). But why does the Boss 302, Shelby GT 350/500, Vette's and Viper's all come stock with stagged wheels and tires? These cars are all made from the factory for Road Rallying. Also in SCCA you jump classes if you have stagged wheels and tires because it gives the driver an advance in their class.. Alot of the FWD cars have reverse stagged wheels and tires. Most high HP cars (200 to 250 hp and up) have a stagged setup in SCCA solo. So don't be afraid to go this route. Learn to drive your car after you have set it up the you want it and enjoy it.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #10  
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dly
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Also I have search high and low on the net for good prices on a good helmet. I finally found a Pyrotect Open Face sa 2010 for $150. This was the best helmet for the money. I brought it at Genesismotorsorts.com. Fast delivery and yes it is a 2010 dated helmet.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 11:02 AM
  #11  
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From: S. Jersey
I wouldn't bother with too much more HP untill you learn the car and how it behaves as well as get some serious seat time.
Don't run staggert wheels, I did in the beginning with 18x10 with 285's and 18x9 with 275's and the car was a pig in the turns. Then I went to the factory 17x8 with Hoosier 275/40-17 R6's all around and man what a difference. The car is very predictable once you get heat into them. I also have Ford racing K springs with Tociko D-spec shocks which also helps. Brakes...you need to get at least Hawk pads, stainless lines and a very good brake fluid as well.
It isn't cheap to race...........
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #12  
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Yea I've been talking to many people that are currently involved in some type of road racing.... And at the end of the day it boils down to what the driver likes... I'll be attending the skip barber racing school out side of Austin tx soon... I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. My goal is to make vette enthusiast envy my little "pos" ford .... I'm no amateur when it comes to driving... I won a full ride to ITT tech in high school through a local drag strip.... I had fun for many years with 1/4 mile runs, but now I want to move on to bigger better things... Thank you all for your assistants
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #13  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by 05bluestang
I wouldn't bother with too much more HP untill you learn the car and how it behaves as well as get some serious seat time.
Don't run staggert wheels, I did in the beginning with 18x10 with 285's and 18x9 with 275's and the car was a pig in the turns. Then I went to the factory 17x8 with Hoosier 275/40-17 R6's all around and man what a difference. The car is very predictable once you get heat into them. I also have Ford racing K springs with Tociko D-spec shocks which also helps. Brakes...you need to get at least Hawk pads, stainless lines and a very good brake fluid as well.
It isn't cheap to race...........
Running Staggered in my view having raced many different types of road and offroad racing in my past but by no means an expert... would combat the oversteer. This would make the car push a little in the turn since your contact patch up front turning the car is smaller than the patch in the rear which is trying to push the car in a straight line. There by giving you the "Pig" or "snow plow" effect in the turns... As a joke, our car in the beginning pushed bad, we put western snowplow sponsor logos on the car.
Having never raced my mustang yet... my setup would probably be 9.5's all the way around.
Amazon.com: Speed Secrets: Professional Race Driving Techniques (9780760305188): Ross Bentley: Books Amazon.com: Speed Secrets: Professional Race Driving Techniques (9780760305188): Ross Bentley: Books

This is a very good book to read. It goes through car setup and driving techniques. Helped me alot.

Last edited by yeeharacing; Dec 9, 2011 at 11:16 AM.
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