Relocation Brackets
#1
Relocation Brackets
Hi, i plan on using eibach pro kit springs, and am going to get LCA relocates, i was just wondering if ishould get steeda or BMR. ONe advantage of BMR is they are bolt in, and i dont trust my welds, so this makes them more appealing. However, steeda is weld in, but has more location holes. Idealy weld in is the best, i know. The main point being, what kind of angles are your lca's at with those springs and either of the brakets. Im kind of hoping for a bit of a low inthe back to the arms, but nothing radical. How does the bmrs compare to steeda? are the first two holes vertually identicle and then steeda puts another hole in? (i also sort of dont like how close the holes are in the steeda, but i will worry about that later). Right now i am mostly concerned with teh lca angles with those springs and either of the brackets. Thanks
Beecher
Beecher
#7
You can believe if they needed to be welded on my BMRs would be and they are not. Someone must be feeding you some bad info. and you came to the right place to get the real story.
#8
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I've got the CHE's, bolt in, one hole. The work great, and the one hole for me puts my LCA's level with the ground, which is were they are suppossed to be, no pointed up or down from the axle. Easy install, no rubbing on the sway bar, and the work GREAT! No sacrifice in ride quality. Launching the car is MUCH nicer, I don't feel like my tail pipes are going to drag anymore. Highlly recommended.
Oh, and I can always weld them in if I feel like it, but don't see a need to.
Oh, and I can always weld them in if I feel like it, but don't see a need to.
#9
#10
I've got the CHE's, bolt in, one hole. The work great, and the one hole for me puts my LCA's level with the ground, which is were they are suppossed to be, no pointed up or down from the axle. Easy install, no rubbing on the sway bar, and the work GREAT! No sacrifice in ride quality. Launching the car is MUCH nicer, I don't feel like my tail pipes are going to drag anymore. Highlly recommended.
Oh, and I can always weld them in if I feel like it, but don't see a need to.
Oh, and I can always weld them in if I feel like it, but don't see a need to.
#11
thanks for the info. The steedas and bmrs are withing bucks of each other. And i believe ultimatly weld in is better, if you can weld (i have a fried who could for me tho, i have 2 welders and zero skill....). I think i will probably go with the BMRs then, the look pretty sturdy for bolt in, and im not going to be dragging, i never drive this car anyway, and when i do its road race (of course not on the street, that would be illegal ![Wink](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Thanks guys.
Beecher
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Thanks guys.
Beecher
#15
I must say, I'm impressed with the CHE site. Very detailed instructions on how to install the various parts, something that is essential for a relative novice like me.
Jon
Jon
#16
if so...i will be worried driving where potential potholes will be!
anyone confirm this for us?
thanks!
#19
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From the pic above, it looks like you have 3-4" of ground clearance. If you compress the suspension to the point of where those touch the ground, you are going to have other problems.
Also, is anyone running the BMR brackets with FRPP springs? I have Steeda's in my garage, but might run BMR's.
Also, is anyone running the BMR brackets with FRPP springs? I have Steeda's in my garage, but might run BMR's.
#20
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From the pic above, it looks like you have 3-4" of ground clearance. If you compress the suspension to the point of where those touch the ground, you are going to have other problems.
Also, is anyone running the BMR brackets with FRPP springs? I have Steeda's in my garage, but might run BMR's.
Also, is anyone running the BMR brackets with FRPP springs? I have Steeda's in my garage, but might run BMR's.
The relocation brackets bolt to the axle mounts. They will always be the same height from the ground, unless you change tire/wheel diameter (or get a flat tire).
![Doh](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/doh.gif)