GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Rearend Noise after BMR install

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Old 5/22/07, 06:22 PM
  #21  
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Right on. For solid bush it does not matter.

Originally Posted by freebass55
CHE replied w/



So...
Old 5/22/07, 06:28 PM
  #22  
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Here's a couple of pictures of mine and I probably have the offset on the wrong side but I put them on like the offset was on the OEM. Like I said earlier after the retorque I have no noise.
Attached Thumbnails Rearend Noise after BMR install-225.jpg   Rearend Noise after BMR install-lca-003.jpg  
Old 5/23/07, 12:39 AM
  #23  
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Not sure if this will make a difference, but would it have anything to do with the relocation brackets. I know BMR recommends you weld them on if your 60 foot is 1.50 and under. I'm not sure if that would be the cause of the noise under cornering, just a thought.
Old 6/14/07, 10:24 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by freebass55
This is interesting. I've had a clunk coming from my rear end after CHE LCA's and anti-squat brackets installed. And I can't find what is causing this. I will be curious to see what you find.
Hey guys... I have the BMR tubular LCA's with relocation brackets. I'm using the OEM sway bars. Recently I noticed that there was a poping noise in the rear when I turned to the right, going up an inclined surface. Doesn't do it in normal driving..

I looked under the car yesterday and found that the factory rear sway bar is moving inside the rubber insulators and is contacting the LCA relocation bracket on the right side. The sway bar links are pretty flimsy and allows the bar to move quite a bit. I'm going to see if I can find some 3/4" spring clip retainers (like you would use on a straight rod axle) to solve the movement problem.

Also, it has been said that after market sway bars that eliminate the OEM tabed bolt and nut hardware have also made simular niose and has been corrected by going back to the original hardware.

Bobby M.
Old 6/14/07, 03:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Burke0011
Now here's the kooky thing - everything I have heard says to torque down the bolts with the car on the ground and the supension loaded.

Yet at the bottom of those instructions, AFTER you have already torqued to 130 ft lbs, it says 'lower the car'.....

wtf????

Anyone think it would be worth it for me to get under there, LOOSEN the bolts and then retorque them to see if that does it?

I am also going to doublecheck and see if it is maybe something with the exhaust pipe on that side impacting the body or another part
As long as you supported the vehicle by the axle (jack stands) as the instructions state, the suspension was loaded.
There should be no reason to loosen and re-torque.
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