Rearend Noise after BMR install
#1
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Rearend Noise after BMR install
INstalled some BMR non adjustable lower control arms and the BMR relocation brackets this weekend.... everything is tight and torqued and looks good. (Just rechecked everything AGAIN this afternoon)
In left hand turns with a bit of speed (loading the car's rear to the right) I get this sound that is almost like a bumping or thumping sound - not sure how to describe it. It only occurs in this situation and not when going straight over regular bumps slowly and at normal speed.
Any ideas?
Could the added tightness be exposing an issue with my rear shock or 'stock' suspension on that side? I thought I remembered a thread or two with people talking about thumping coming from the rear.....
Any/all input is appreciated - thanks
DAVE
In left hand turns with a bit of speed (loading the car's rear to the right) I get this sound that is almost like a bumping or thumping sound - not sure how to describe it. It only occurs in this situation and not when going straight over regular bumps slowly and at normal speed.
Any ideas?
Could the added tightness be exposing an issue with my rear shock or 'stock' suspension on that side? I thought I remembered a thread or two with people talking about thumping coming from the rear.....
Any/all input is appreciated - thanks
DAVE
#2
Team Mustang Source
I installed the BMR lower control arms and the directions said to torque them down to 70 ft lbs. I went online and the website said to torque them to 130 and after they were retorqued, my noise went away.
#3
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Yeah I had the torque wrench set to like 120 and went all out on them - suckers are tight for sure - thanks for the response man!
#4
Legacy TMS Member
Hum.......
My steeda lcas were designed to install specifically one way.... one side of the lcas was thicker than the other. It would install either way, but only one way was correct. Are your BMRs the same way- did it say anything about that in the instructions?
My steeda lcas were designed to install specifically one way.... one side of the lcas was thicker than the other. It would install either way, but only one way was correct. Are your BMRs the same way- did it say anything about that in the instructions?
#5
Team Mustang Source
It didn't show how to install them but when I looked at the stockers and then compared them to the BMR's it was pretty easy to tell which end was which!
#6
Legacy TMS Member
http://www.steeda.com/products/_high...ntrol_arms.jpg
If you look at the right side of this picture, you can see how one side of the lcas is offset compared to the left side of the picture where there is no offset. It's pretty obvious that the thicker side goes to the rear of the car, (I think that's what you referred to Rich) but my point was that the offset is supposed to go one way specifically (I think to the outside of the car).
Again, this is how my Steedas are, I don't know if the BMRs are like this or not, I'm just trying to help.
Tom
If you look at the right side of this picture, you can see how one side of the lcas is offset compared to the left side of the picture where there is no offset. It's pretty obvious that the thicker side goes to the rear of the car, (I think that's what you referred to Rich) but my point was that the offset is supposed to go one way specifically (I think to the outside of the car).
Again, this is how my Steedas are, I don't know if the BMRs are like this or not, I'm just trying to help.
Tom
#7
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Hey Tom - yeah I had noted that actually, as some extra directions I printed up were for the install were for J&M LCAs that are set up the same way as yours
The base level BMRs do not have that offset to one side though so that is not an issue.....
Hmmm.....
The base level BMRs do not have that offset to one side though so that is not an issue.....
Hmmm.....
#10
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Thanks Rich - mine are tubular (I bought them from Doug at Bamachips actually) with no offset and you have to have them set in the right way or the grease fitting will not be pointed down for easy access....
While testing earlier topngiht to see if I had defeated the sound, I was able to get ON it a bit.....
Dummy me, forgot to turn the traction control off. (even though it didn't activate)
But the one time I was able to lean on her, if the added traction I felt was any indication, I am LOVING that.
I can't wait to get new tires on
While testing earlier topngiht to see if I had defeated the sound, I was able to get ON it a bit.....
Dummy me, forgot to turn the traction control off. (even though it didn't activate)
But the one time I was able to lean on her, if the added traction I felt was any indication, I am LOVING that.
I can't wait to get new tires on
#11
You had me worried there for a minute Tom. So much so, I checked the BMR website. Attached are the instructions for the BMR non-adj. LCA's. Narrow end forward, nothing said about the offset to the outside.
Jon
Jon
#12
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Now here's the kooky thing - everything I have heard says to torque down the bolts with the car on the ground and the supension loaded.
Yet at the bottom of those instructions, AFTER you have already torqued to 130 ft lbs, it says 'lower the car'.....
wtf????
Anyone think it would be worth it for me to get under there, LOOSEN the bolts and then retorque them to see if that does it?
I am also going to doublecheck and see if it is maybe something with the exhaust pipe on that side impacting the body or another part
Yet at the bottom of those instructions, AFTER you have already torqued to 130 ft lbs, it says 'lower the car'.....
wtf????
Anyone think it would be worth it for me to get under there, LOOSEN the bolts and then retorque them to see if that does it?
I am also going to doublecheck and see if it is maybe something with the exhaust pipe on that side impacting the body or another part
#13
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This is interesting. I've had a clunk coming from my rear end after CHE LCA's and anti-squat brackets installed. And I can't find what is causing this. I will be curious to see what you find.
#14
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
#15
Legacy TMS Member
Hey Dave, good point about torqueing them while loaded..... I prefer Bud Light LOL!
OK seriously though, the Steeda directions say to do that too..... I remember it was a PITA to move the torque wrench while the car was on the ground, so I jacked it up by the diff to simulate the effect. May be worth a try???
OK seriously though, the Steeda directions say to do that too..... I remember it was a PITA to move the torque wrench while the car was on the ground, so I jacked it up by the diff to simulate the effect. May be worth a try???
#16
Big Falken Tires
Thread Starter
Hey Dave, good point about torqueing them while loaded..... I prefer Bud Light LOL!
OK seriously though, the Steeda directions say to do that too..... I remember it was a PITA to move the torque wrench while the car was on the ground, so I jacked it up by the diff to simulate the effect. May be worth a try???
OK seriously though, the Steeda directions say to do that too..... I remember it was a PITA to move the torque wrench while the car was on the ground, so I jacked it up by the diff to simulate the effect. May be worth a try???
yeah it sure was hard using that thing under there when first installed - yesterday I had the rear up on Rhino ramps - much more room to work and had the rear 'loaded'. Really thinking maybe I should just break everything loose and retighten (man - going for 130 lbs is a workout in a hot garage)
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#18
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I just finished doing a pretty good search on this. The only thing I can think of is that I tightened everything while my jackstands were under the rear axle. I think that's wrong.
According to this, the rear should hang when installing.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...light=che+pics
I think I need to give CHE a call to find out for sure.
According to this, the rear should hang when installing.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...light=che+pics
I think I need to give CHE a call to find out for sure.
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CHE replied w/
So...
It should not matter whether the rear end was supported or hanging when the bolts were torqued as the poly/delrin bushings will be free to turn unlike the factory rubber bushings which must be at ride height when torqued.
#20
To me, it makes sense that you would want to torque the bolts where there is no load on the bolts to the holes, or you might get a bad torque reading. (if that makes sense) I made sure my LCAs were not binding in any way and the bolts spun freely before tightening so I knew I would get a nice even torque on everything.
Of course, I still get a slight clunk on shifting.
Interesting on the offset of the other arms. Wonder what the deal is there?
Heck...I am just happy my UCA is silent now.
Of course, I still get a slight clunk on shifting.
Interesting on the offset of the other arms. Wonder what the deal is there?
Heck...I am just happy my UCA is silent now.