Rear End Woe's
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Joined: February 18, 2011
Posts: 94
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From: Plainville, MA
Rear End Woe's
Well, I was minding my own business installing my rear Wilwood brake kit today and when it was time to slide the axels out I was greeted with an ugly sight. When I removed the differential cover I noticed two of the four spider gears are pretty banged up! For some reason the gears on the left and right have mashed teeth. Only the ones on each side, the top and bottoms are fine. Any ideas as to what caused this? My car has Eibach springs and Tokico D Speck Adjustable shocks as far as suspension and everything else is stock. Is it possible that being lowered without an adjustable Panhard bar or adjustable upper control arm that the angle of the driveshaft and rear end is off causing the gears to not mesh correctly. Or is it just a sign of abuse? The 3:55 gears look fine, it's just 2 of the 4 spider gears that are damaged.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
Joined: November 27, 2004
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From: Visalia Ca.
Well, I was minding my own business installing my rear Wilwood brake kit today and when it was time to slide the axels out I was greeted with an ugly sight. When I removed the differential cover I noticed two of the four spider gears are pretty banged up! For some reason the gears on the left and right have mashed teeth. Only the ones on each side, the top and bottoms are fine. Any ideas as to what caused this? My car has Eibach springs and Tokico D Speck Adjustable shocks as far as suspension and everything else is stock. Is it possible that being lowered without an adjustable Panhard bar or adjustable upper control arm that the angle of the driveshaft and rear end is off causing the gears to not mesh correctly. Or is it just a sign of abuse? The 3:55 gears look fine, it's just 2 of the 4 spider gears that are damaged.
KC
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Joined: October 9, 2005
Posts: 2,607
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From: N.E. Ohio
thats scary looking...I dunno, but wouldnt think drag racing would do that- these gears are static unless turning a corner. ever done a burnout and only left one stripe? that would wear the spiders very very fast- but all 4 of them...pinion angle/lowering wont change mesh. severe ujoint angles cause the velocity of the pinion:shaft to change twice a rev, the torsional vibration might beat things up a little, but I dont think like this...especially as the spiders are so undamaged.
has this rearend ever been serviced? kinda wondering if someone mighta dinged the side gears taking the spring out or something- dings leave high spots elsewhere that might cause pressure points that chip away?
just wondering if maybe Ford got some hard or soft parts or something- I'm pretty sure these gears are profile heat treated, kinda looks like the sidegears were a bit brittle at the tips... if so there could be more of us with this quietly going on. Ive got at least 50 passes on mine, hope they look better than this- might pull my cover and take a look. is there a magnet in the pumpkin to catch metal?
eager to hear everyones thoughts on this
has this rearend ever been serviced? kinda wondering if someone mighta dinged the side gears taking the spring out or something- dings leave high spots elsewhere that might cause pressure points that chip away?
just wondering if maybe Ford got some hard or soft parts or something- I'm pretty sure these gears are profile heat treated, kinda looks like the sidegears were a bit brittle at the tips... if so there could be more of us with this quietly going on. Ive got at least 50 passes on mine, hope they look better than this- might pull my cover and take a look. is there a magnet in the pumpkin to catch metal?
eager to hear everyones thoughts on this
Last edited by ford4v429; Apr 8, 2011 at 09:36 PM.
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Joined: February 18, 2011
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by 05stangkc
Well the good news is you caught it before it GRENADED. Get er Fixed and move on. Do you do a lot of Drag Racing??
KC
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Joined: February 18, 2011
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by ford4v429
ever done a burnout and only left one stripe?
has this rearend ever been serviced?
is there a magnet in the pumpkin to catch metal?
has this rearend ever been serviced?
is there a magnet in the pumpkin to catch metal?
As far as I can tell the rear end is as it was from the factory and never serviced. It only has 66,000 miles on it
No magnet in the rear end that I know of. I purchase a Ford Racing rear diff cover, a Moser stud kit and Royal Purple gear oil with the brakes in hopes to sure things up back there but as you can see it's a little too late
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Joined: February 18, 2011
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by 05stangkc
I checked for TSB's This may be helpful. Could explain low fluid.
KC
KC
I don't know what to do now. I'm gonna have to put it back together and take it somewhere to have this fixed. Is there something aftermarket I can do to make it stronger and better than before like a Detroit Locker or something? I just supercharged the car and was planning a 6 speed with a good clutch and one piece aluminum driveshaft next year and want the rear end as strong as can be. Especially now that repairs need to be made I wanna strengthen it up as much as I can.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
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From: Visalia Ca.
Here is a Parts Breakdown. All things being equal the FORD Diff Kit at $120.00 Should get you back on the Road for now.
I would make sure to flush as much of the junk out of the case as I could and replace the kit as shown. That is if nothing else is damaged.
You said you had a shop manual so it's really how comfortable you are with the repair. It's a job some could do in the driveway and some could not. Pulling the Ring & Pinion is definetely not a driveway job for the vast majority but the Side Gears & spiders is a lot easier thing.
I have supplied the FORD Part number for the Diff KIt and indicated a couple of things to check. Make sure the 4211 Shaft is not worn and also the Hole it goes into in not wallowed out.
I am sure you will get a lot of varied opinions on which way to go. This is mine. I don't think you need to dump a ton of money into the rear at the present as the 8.8 is a decent rear and should serve you fine with the factory setup as long as nothing else is wrong with it.
Make sure and check for any other damaged parts and be sure you are getting everything you need the first time. I would replace that Axle Vent as well as listed in the TSB. Replacing the Axle seals would be a good Idea as well if you are comfortable with it. I would also check the Axles & bearings for wear if you had a low fluid concern.
If you wanted upgrade the Gears you could go with somthing like this.
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=4137
It's hard to make a difinitive recommendation with pics alone but with what I can see this is what you get.
kc
I would make sure to flush as much of the junk out of the case as I could and replace the kit as shown. That is if nothing else is damaged.
You said you had a shop manual so it's really how comfortable you are with the repair. It's a job some could do in the driveway and some could not. Pulling the Ring & Pinion is definetely not a driveway job for the vast majority but the Side Gears & spiders is a lot easier thing.
I have supplied the FORD Part number for the Diff KIt and indicated a couple of things to check. Make sure the 4211 Shaft is not worn and also the Hole it goes into in not wallowed out.
I am sure you will get a lot of varied opinions on which way to go. This is mine. I don't think you need to dump a ton of money into the rear at the present as the 8.8 is a decent rear and should serve you fine with the factory setup as long as nothing else is wrong with it.
Make sure and check for any other damaged parts and be sure you are getting everything you need the first time. I would replace that Axle Vent as well as listed in the TSB. Replacing the Axle seals would be a good Idea as well if you are comfortable with it. I would also check the Axles & bearings for wear if you had a low fluid concern.
If you wanted upgrade the Gears you could go with somthing like this.
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=4137
It's hard to make a difinitive recommendation with pics alone but with what I can see this is what you get.
kc
Last edited by 05stangkc; Apr 9, 2011 at 09:36 AM.
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: February 18, 2011
Posts: 94
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by 05stangkc
Here is a Parts Breakdown. All things being equal the FORD Diff Kit at $120.00 Should get you back on the Road for now.
I would make sure to flush as much of the junk out of the case as I could and replace the kit as shown. That is if nothing else is damaged.
You said you had a shop manual so it's really how comfortable you are with the repair. It's a job some could do in the driveway and some could not. Pulling the Ring & Pinion is definetely not a driveway job for the vast majority but the Side Gears & spiders is a lot easier thing.
I have supplied the FORD Part number for the Diff KIt and indicated a couple of things to check. Make sure the 4211 Shaft is not worn and also the Hole it goes into in not wallowed out.
I am sure you will get a lot of varied opinions on which way to go. This is mine. I don't think you need to dump a ton of money into the rear at the present as the 8.8 is a decent rear and should serve you fine with the factory setup as long as nothing else is wrong with it.
Make sure and check for any other damaged parts and be sure you are getting everything you need the first time. I would replace that Axle Vent as well as listed in the TSB. Replacing the Axle seals would be a good Idea as well if you are comfortable with it. I would also check the Axles & bearings for wear if you had a low fluid concern.
If you wanted upgrade the Gears you could go with somthing like this.
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=4137
It's hard to make a difinitive recommendation with pics alone but with what I can see this is what you get.
kc
I would make sure to flush as much of the junk out of the case as I could and replace the kit as shown. That is if nothing else is damaged.
You said you had a shop manual so it's really how comfortable you are with the repair. It's a job some could do in the driveway and some could not. Pulling the Ring & Pinion is definetely not a driveway job for the vast majority but the Side Gears & spiders is a lot easier thing.
I have supplied the FORD Part number for the Diff KIt and indicated a couple of things to check. Make sure the 4211 Shaft is not worn and also the Hole it goes into in not wallowed out.
I am sure you will get a lot of varied opinions on which way to go. This is mine. I don't think you need to dump a ton of money into the rear at the present as the 8.8 is a decent rear and should serve you fine with the factory setup as long as nothing else is wrong with it.
Make sure and check for any other damaged parts and be sure you are getting everything you need the first time. I would replace that Axle Vent as well as listed in the TSB. Replacing the Axle seals would be a good Idea as well if you are comfortable with it. I would also check the Axles & bearings for wear if you had a low fluid concern.
If you wanted upgrade the Gears you could go with somthing like this.
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=4137
It's hard to make a difinitive recommendation with pics alone but with what I can see this is what you get.
kc
Last edited by Jmeo; Apr 9, 2011 at 01:39 PM.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
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From: Visalia Ca.
Very nice write up, I thank you for taking the time to try and help me. I think I am going to take my car to my semi-local Mustang shop and have the rear end rebuilt with new bearings and seals throughout including axel seals & bearings. I also think I am going to have them install a Eaton Truetrack differential. I am just not comfortable doing rear end work.
KC
Thread Starter
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Joined: February 18, 2011
Posts: 94
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by 05stangkc
You are welcome.If your not comfortable with the Job you made the right choice. Don't forget the TSB Vent to keep the oil in place!
KC
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Looks like the previous owner had way too much fun in that car!
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From: Spangdahlem Air Base Germany
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
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From: Visalia Ca.
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; Apr 12, 2011 at 06:41 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: February 18, 2011
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From: Plainville, MA
Originally Posted by 05stangkc
Ouch, That thing is listed as a hose assembly and Retails for $46.02 Historically those are fairly inexpensive. Must Be especial! For those have the prob and are still under warranty might want to get the dealer to do it. The are screwed into the axle Btw.
KC
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From: Arvada, CO
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: February 18, 2011
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Plainville, MA
Just finished installing
Steeda X5 ball joints
Steeda Heavy Duty Camber Plate
Steeda Bump Steer Kit
Steeda Comp/Street Adj UCA
Steeda Adj Panhard Bar
Steeda Panhard Brace
Steeda Non-Adj LCA
And just had 4 wheel alignment
Adjusted pinion angle to -1.5
Centered axle (was off by almost 1")
And all I can say is WOW. The car rides and handles better than ever with absolutely no increased NVH. I STRONGLY advise some if not all of these mods for anyone who has lowered their car. One or all of these things could have been the culprit for my differential gears getting fubared.
Steeda X5 ball joints
Steeda Heavy Duty Camber Plate
Steeda Bump Steer Kit
Steeda Comp/Street Adj UCA
Steeda Adj Panhard Bar
Steeda Panhard Brace
Steeda Non-Adj LCA
And just had 4 wheel alignment
Adjusted pinion angle to -1.5
Centered axle (was off by almost 1")
And all I can say is WOW. The car rides and handles better than ever with absolutely no increased NVH. I STRONGLY advise some if not all of these mods for anyone who has lowered their car. One or all of these things could have been the culprit for my differential gears getting fubared.
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