BITOG. I think I mentioned the site several times already in this thread.

Here's the main menu for the forums.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

BITOG = Bob Is the Oil Guy.

Do a search for Gas chromatography. This is/was a very controversial topic.

 

i just use standard motorcrafts 5w-20.... remember most of us are just driving normal ford mod motors.

 

Oh yea I forgot to mention the good oil filter too
I use (mobil 1)M1-210 Oil filter.
I follow the 5k oil/filter/inspection routine as outlined by FORD, let them try and void my warranty.

 

I'm reading a lot of "old fashioned" ideas on here that really can end up damaging your engine even though they are intuitively meant to help.
1) Changing synthetics IS NOT necessary every 3000 miles. In fact it actually causes more corrosion. Because of the alkylines caused by engines at temperature oil actually becomes more corrosive at the beginning of it's life cycle. I can't pretend to explain all the chemical processes so I'll provide a link or two.
2) Unless metroplex show us some evidence to the contrary, Mobil1 SYN, RP, Red Line, and Amsoil are the only true group 1 sythetics available on the market.

After reading these articles I have been running Mobil 1 Syn 10k miles with filter changes every 5,000 (Post break in period). Do yourself a favor and read them! I'm not a chemist, but what they say (although a little technical) makes sense to me.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Oi...ge%20Intervals

Happy reading,

Frank

 

OK,I've never seen that abbreviation, but yeah, I have read through most of that site as well, and also recommend it highly. I don't think it is fair to make the statement that those tests are conclusive or that Mobil 1 is NOT a GRP 1 synthetic.

 

I don't think a Group I basestock is considered synthetic. Group I, II, II+, and III are based on dino oils. Group IV/V is where it is considered synthetic, while Group III legally is considered a full synthetic (but not technically).

Here are some BITOG links regarding the gas chromatography findings:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...0&fpart=1&vc=1
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...0&fpart=1&vc=1
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Mobil could easily change basestocks for its oil formulations, and legally a Group III is still considered to be "Fully Synthetic" as Castrol found out years ago.

 

I think I got confused on the grouping terminology, and you are correct in what you said above. However, I still would stop short of saying that Mobil one is not a FULL syntetic and/or that they are pulling the same "technical" marketing ploy that Castrol uses.

 

I have access to two HP Gas Chromatographs. I can tell you that while they do give a good bit of information, they do not tell all. There are many tests by different machines that need to be run to come to a legitimate conclusion about oils.

 

double post...sorry

 

Metro,
I read through the first 5 pages (of 20) of the forum thread and one point that needs to be made is that when I refer to Mobil 1 SYN, I mean just that, Not the M1 EP or regular Mobil 1. The impression I got (from what I read) was that those guys feel they have been duped because the EP also says "fully Synthetic" but is not the same grade oil that the M1 Syn is. Of course there may be further clarification deeper in the thread. Honestly, the research I did was just before I got my '05 over 2 years ago, so formulations could have changed, but I'd feel cheated as well if I wasn't getting what I paid for.

 

Well I am not about to read 20+ pages to see if there was any definite proof. All I saw in the pages that I did read, was a lot of specualtion about a weight that no one uses anymore.

I didn't see anything that would change my mind about using Mobil1, maybe I didn't read deep enough.

 

Independent Firm's Reviews <------

 

Tillman, how long do you think you should stick with the motorcraft filter and dino oil before you make the switch?

 

To be safe, 2500 miles. That way you know everything internally is fully seated! You can change the filter at any time, it's the oil that you need to change after the motor has broken in.

CR
Tillman Speed

 

I ran dino oil for 500 miles [note: I believe the car comes from the factory with a syn blend, so an immediate oil change is necessary to actually break it in with dino oil]. I then had an oil change (still using dino) until 2500. Then I switched to full SYN. That may be overkill. Most guys say to wait 2000-5000 then switch.

 

Did you read the article?

If you did, you could see why I am still not sold. Plus, it's still from Royal Purple's website. Have you ever seen reviews for products? Do they ever promote bad reviews? Keep digging...

 

Go pick up the reviews they have in 5.0 and all the mustang magazines. On the products spotlights, almost every month they rave about royal purple. There are plenty of places you can find that tell you about how nice the stuff works. Google "royal purple review" and that should suffice.

CR
Tillman Speed

 

My turn to chime in!

Like OKC said, the key is to regularly change your oil to Ford's service guidlines.

No matter if your preference is Motocraft, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, I highly doubt you'll see one oil brand better than the other as far as preventing abnormal wear on an engine over a given span, assuming regular oil changes have been adhered to.

As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.

I've been taught in Aviation Powerplant school that piston rings seat (break-in) within the first 5 minutes of engine life; cam to rocker mating a tad longer.

Point is, there are some who peel rubber out from the Dealership when new and some who baby it for the first few months... it doesn't matter, the factory already broke-in your engine, so by the time you get it, it's good to go!

 

Good answer, that's why I love you.

 

About this time last year Comp Cams and Crane and all the top companies including Lunati were noticing that they were getting wiped lifters, and cams, from all over the place. Everyone was blaming the cam compaines. Lately in a publication by a rolls royce magazine, I belive it was called "modern lady magazine" they had a great write-up about shell rotella oil and how it is the only oil left on the market with the ZDPP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate) additive. Which is reccommended for engine break-in. Granted, this is really more applicable to pushrod motors, and not modular motors.

CR
Tillman Speed