GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Predator advice needed

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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 10:17 AM
  #1  
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My handy neighbor and I just installed the C&L cai and Motoblue U/D pulleys, with C&L predator 93 canned tune. Went well except one bee sting (I was under the car and could not run off screaming like a girl like I usually do).

Test drives have shown that the throttle lag is 80-90% gone, throttle is sooo much better. Car is snappier and clearly has more power.... BUT. I feel like i'm not getting all that I can out of it. I think if I knew more about the Predator and more about the data I could get more out of it by modifying the tune.

This car is an automatic and after the tune I still get no chirp when it shifts from 1st to 2nd (TCS off). I get no chirp if I am rolling along at 20 and I slam the gas. Its better now, but still not as good as it can be.

Have you raised your rev limiter? to 6500? it seems easy enough to do w the Predator but I didn't want to do anything that would be reckless.

How can I use the Predator to determine what my A/F ratio is?

I'm trying to log live data, but i'm having a hard time understanding what the data i'm logging MEANS. Can you give me specific advice on straightforward metrics that I can measure to help me determine what to tweak from here??? I should mention i'm a N00B to this- it may be obvious at this point :shock:

thanks in advance :worship:
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 11:58 AM
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I checked the settings on the rev limiter and its at 6496, so nevermind on that. But the rev limits on the shift points are set at a little less than 6000. Safe to raise?
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Well, safety is a matter or controversy...I'll give you some tips I've picked up and they seem to be working well.

1. I have my rev limiter set at 7,000 rpm's. I shift at 6,500 but need the extra cushion for the Nitrous (don't want to bump the rev-limiter while spraying as it pulls fuel...very bad with Nitrous) Also when you adjust your rev-limiter make sure you adjust both settings by the same amount (default and other).

2. On data-logging: WOT spark is an important value to look at (total timing at WOT). 31-32 deg is good for naturally aspirated motor's. With a power adder you want that value lower. You can also monitor air intake temp's and water temp's, good stuff.

3. The Predator can not give you an A/F ratio per say. You would need to install a wide band monitor (there are some threads on this subject).

4. The most important thing I can recommend is to find yourself a good Diablosport "chipmaster revolution" tuner and have her custom dyno tuned. You will gain all your potential HP/Torque, make your throttle smooth as possible, ensure your A/F ratio's are safe, and make sure your car is happy... Well worth the money.

Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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I have close to your setup. I raised the WOT shift to 6200 and set the limit at 6500.
Too bad you did not come here first and read all about the tuners. Seems the SCTX-2 and Lidio tunes work best with an automatic. I am thinking about ordering this and selling the Predator. Keep the OD turned off unless you are on the highway and you will get a lot more out of your floorings. Brake lock it at standing start and build the revs until it warms the tires a little then release the brake and firewall it.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Thanks guys for the info.
My spark adv was hitting 30-31 around 6000 rpms so I think that sounds about right.
I will try adjusting the WOT shift points and see if that gives it more snap.
I looked at what I can change in Modify custom tune and really don't know whether I need to go richer or leaner, thats the hard thing for me to figure out. I data logged the Long fuel trim (LFT1&2) but I don't understand what the data means, I guess I don't need to know what it means, what I need it to know whats the sweet spot whats the target data?
My local dyno is down for repairs but its my plan to hit it asap and make sure i get the A/F measured. As I understand it my target is 12.6 to 13.
I hear Lidio is the king, I also hear great things about the other premier SCT tuners like Doug. I don't know enough about it yet to have any regrets, but after a dyno and after I make adjustments, if I can't get it right I may make the switch to SCT. Its too early right now to jump ship.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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Vegasjay, I looked at your sig and noticed that you mentioned that you advanced your timing 2.5%(global?). How do you know when you have advanced it to the sweet spot? what data do you measure to know what is your target point?
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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Originally posted by godochaos@October 24, 2005, 9:57 AM
Vegasjay, I looked at your sig and noticed that you mentioned that you advanced your timing 2.5%(global?). How do you know when you have advanced it to the sweet spot? what data do you measure to know what is your target point?
When I started Dyno tuning I was reading 28-29 deg at WOT. So we advanced the timing until we got to 32 deg. Now I'm starting all over on the dyno developing a nitrous safe tune... :bang:
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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I went out just now and adjusted my RPM shift points to 6200.
turned off my TCS, AC, and O/D and took off. It launches well but no chirp from 1st to 2nd. Actually if I floor it from a stop it does not chirp, if I roll at 20mph and then floor it I get no chirp.

I think I'm going to try to Richen it up and monitor spark adv at WOT and see how that works.

Thanks for the Predator clinic!
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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Brake lock it and build the revs until the tires just break loose, get off the brakes and on the gas. Try dropping your shift RPM just a little. You may be going the wrong direction with the fuel mix.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 01:23 AM
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Originally posted by Mongoose@October 25, 2005, 10:38 PM
Brake lock it and build the revs until the tires just break loose, get off the brakes and on the gas. Try dropping your shift RPM just a little. You may be going the wrong direction with the fuel mix.

That can always be done, but its just a crazy feeling to floor it and have your tires spin. Heck, I have 20"s on my car and NO performance mods...sometimes when everything is right, I floor my car coming up a slight hill and i hit redline with tires spinning . Now if I could have that without being on a hill
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 01:04 PM
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I can always get it to spin if I power brake up to 1500+ rpms and then I let if go.

What i'd like to see is a burn out even with TCS on, and I got to that by doing the following: (keep in mind this is Automatic, w C&L tune modified)

1). I set the mph RPM limit to 6200 per advice from this forum
2). Richen fuel 2.5% on the higher rpm
3). Set the shift up +10 mph on the 1-2nd shift.

Last night I burned out at a yield sign with TCS on and just a tiny rev with the brake on. I now burn out if i'm at a complete stop with no brake- but not a long burnout.

I still don't get to much chirp from 1st to 2nd but i'm close!
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 10:02 AM
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Why oh why did U get an automatic???

I had two auto mustangs as a teen both 2000 anniversary edition i chirped all the time in them easy. My predator canned tune works great on the manual transmission 6 i have now. I Actually have to hold back on the throttle most of the time to avoid spinning tires, and if its raining, oh god. Cant wait for til i can afford all weather street performance treads (anyone know a good brand?). Anyways, not sure whats going on with your gt if you cant get it to spin tires, especially on a custom tune.

Maybe your gt suspension is so much better than the v6's and is designed to put more of that power directly to the road (not sure why u think spinning tires is a good thi other than it looks cool).
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