goesfast

I hope you guys can help me. And forgive me for asking questions that have undoubtedly been asked many times over: I'm looking at buying a 2007 Mustang GT and want to improve the engine performance using only FRPP parts to keep it "genuine" Ford. What is the best way to accomplish this and what sort of power gains can be realized? I assume things like CAI, GTA mufflers, X-pipe, pulleys, etc., are the first things to be changed. But what else have you guys used that you were happy with and noticed a substantial gain? I want to squeeze as much power out of the engine without changing the heads. Has anyone used the FRPP supercharger (and by the way, does it fit under a stock hood?) with any success?
I would appreciate any help and tips you could give me. Thanks very much!

bpmurr

Goesfast,

The FRPP SC (which is a Whipple rebadged) will fit under the stock hood without a problem. The Ford tune is pretty good but I would get a SCT tuner and go to a local Mustang tuner to get it fine tuned. The Ford Racing stuff is ok and I'd suggest keeping an open mind about trying some of the other aftermarket companies out there. In terms of warranty coverage it shouldn't matter if it's FRPP or not. I do have the FRPP swaybars (Eibach rebadged) and they are pretty nice. I can't think of anything that comes close to the price. Now that I think of it pretty much the whole FRPP lineup is someone elses part rebadged so just get the best performing stuff for the buck!

goesfast

Thanks bpmurr. Very helpful. So, for performance, you've only put an exhaust system and CAI (plus tune) and you're getting 297rwhp? Pretty impressive! Do you intend to do anything else under the hood? Thanks.

TillmanSpeed

Jim,

First... welcome. Second, you're going the right direction already. Ask alot of questions. There's a ton of guys on this forum who have tried just about every concievable combination. They know what works, and what doesn't.

As far as all genuine FRPP parts... be careful. You're not getting the best bang for the buck, and you're not helping your warranty. Read the fine prints.

I reccommend brands like Steeda, BMR, C&L, Coast Driveline, JLT, SCT, Comp Cams, Whipple, Saleen, Kenne Bell, Eibach, Tokico, etc. These aftermarket companies have proven products, and you can mix and match just about any performance or handling (or both) combination for just about the best results for your preferences.

I would right off the bat reccommend the C&L racer intake with SCT custom tune. This is our most popular selling intake system, and will make for one hell of an increase in power. You can get your tunes vehicle specific to YOUR car with what octane fuel(s) you run, and have the room for 3 options. Additionally, you can use the SCT tuner down the road for pretty much ANY modifications you can think of... all the way up to a 1200RWHP twin turbo setup from a 300RWHP daily driver.

I reccommend using only quality components from manufacturers that carry warranties and stand behind their products. Don't feel the need to have all matching parts, either. For example... I need a BMR strut tower brace, because I already purchased set of BMR springs. People get mixed up in this, and sometimes don't get the best system they could have.

Stick with the brands above, and you wont have any issues whatsoever. Try the intake and tune, move to some gears, or some Steeda Charge Motion delete plates and underdrive pulleys. Then from there, most people go right to the blower/long tube header setup. You can get a d amn-near 500RWHP setup for the street, and with a little work to the bottom end the possibilities are endless.

Feel free to give us a shout, and we can help you set up WHATEVER it is you're looking for. Most of all... research. But remember, you can find something wrong with just about any part. Don't take one negative comment too seriously, watch the consensus and read multiple posts.

Stick with ourselves or Doug @ Bamachips, Brent @ Brenspeed for tuning, and if you're ever in the area stop in!

Good Luck!

CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711

bpmurr

That plus the Steeda underdrive pulley. I plan at some point getting a Whipple or Saleen SC. Every time I get close to pulling the trigger something comes up I have to fork out money for. This time it was my parents surprise 35th anniversary party. It sucks I didn't get the blower but the surprise and enjoyment on my parents face when they realized what was going on was priceless.

GottaHaveIt

can't compare a supercharger to family, take your time You must be younger than your parents and looky if they didn't have you you would not even have a Mustang to begin with. Time Really is on your side. Drive Safe.

Forge

I suggest planning out what you want the end product to be. Figure out what driving habits you have, how much you will drive it, HP or 1/4 time goals, autox, raod racing? just a fun street car?

Here are a few example builds:

Street fun N/A build
JLT or C&L intake plus XCAL2 tuner (dont get diablo)
Mufflers (no power here, all about the sound you want)
Springs (Steeda, Eibach, etc)
and body mods (ducktail wing, racing stripes, whatever floats your boat).
- This is a fun car that will look nice and be fun to drive. Wont cost alot, and should have 295wrhp and over 300tq.

Serious street N/A fun:
JLT or C&L intake plus XCAL2 tuner - stick with Bama or Brenspeed (maybe tillman, but i know nothing of them)
Mufflers (no power here, all about the sound you want)
Springs (Steeda, Eibach, etc)
4.10 gears (FRPP or Motive)
Underdrive pulleys
and CMDP's
- this is a bit more on the performance side than the street N/A, again should cost too much and will tear up some streets. SHould be around 305 rwhp and 310ish tq.

All out Street N/A car:
JLT or C&L intake plus XCAL2 tuner (dont get diablo)
Mufflers (no power here, all about the sound you want)
Springs (Steeda, Eibach, etc)
4.10 gears (FRPP or Motive)
Underdrive pulleys
CMDP's
Long Tube headers with x or H pipe
Cams
Throttle body
Sticky tires
- This is a bit more money, but this is a beast of a street car. Should get you close to 350/350 at the rear wheels. Downfall of this build is for the same money, you can go Forced induction and be making 420-450rwhp.

Street fun FI
Super Charger or turbo
Tuner (again SCT XCAL2)
- You can get kits as low as 3500 that should put you 400-440ish SAFELY. Most dont come with an intercooler of fuel mods, so i wouldnt push it much past 425.

Serious Street FI
Supercharger or Turbo FULL KIT (includes fuel mods, tuner, intercooler, ect)
- THis will put you into the 500 rwhp area, but here you are taking a risk on the stock internals. Tune or not, the motor can only handle so much force applied to it

From here the sky is the limit, but plan to spend more than 6k to make any more power. Headers and mid-pipe are nice on S/C cars, but you cant use them on turbo cars. So, plan ahead and take it one step at a time. If your going to go NA for sure, might try going with senerio 1 and build up from there. If you plan to do FI, dont worry about any other mods, as your FI kit will out power what the engine will taks - just save up for the FI first.

and lastly nitrous. This can be added to any of the above kits, or even to a bone stock car. Cheap way to get 75hp without a tune. 100-175, id get it tuned. Anything over that and you asking for trouble on the stock block.

as for FRPP - 90 percent of their parts are made by the same aftermarket companies. Ford stingers are made by Borla, the GTA are made by abother muffler company, S/C is by wipple, gears are by motive, etc. Like everyone said, read read read, then make a decision on what you want.

kevinb120

Don't forget an aluminum driveshaft and some sort of LCA's

goesfast

Wow! You guys have been real helpful! Thanks so much. I didn't expect this kind of help at all! I don't feel as confused as before, to say the least. To bpmurr: ( I'm sure you'll get your supercharger one day ) Parents are so special we usually only have one "pair". They make car parts every day. I know you know this...........
And thanks Tillman. You're points are very well taken and I will be mindful of them. I'll try not to be as "loyal" to FRPP and get the best results with the best products.
Mr. Forge: What can I say? Wow! What a list! A very straightforward way of laying it out and easy to understand (except, what's a CMDP?). I guess I would probably like to put down approximately 350RWHP, so I'd go with your "all-out street N/A car" version of mods to get this result, although I might as well just say "the heck with it" and go straight to a supercharger. But I do want it to look stock too. Anyway, you guys have given me LOTS to think about and really appreciate your experience in the matter. If you think of anything else, feel free to add. Thanks again!

TacoBill

Charge Motion Delete Plates. I just installed them last weekend.

DynamicmustangGT

Jim,
Steeda worked very closly with Ford and makes some FRPP products. the FRPP cai is the same as the steeda cai. I love mine

goesfast

Thanks Dynamic, I'll keep that in mind when I go the CAI route!

Every_Mn

I'd start off with a C&L intake and SCT tuner with a good tune. Like CR I think said earlier, TillmanSpeed, Doug/Bamachips or Brenspeed all have excellent reputations.

Mufflers are great for sound, and some of them weight reduction, but that's about it. UD pulleys and CMCV plates help, too.

There's really not much to say that hasn't been said.

First Stang

So what kind of HP gains do you get from UD pulleys and CMCV plates and how do they increase HP?

Thanks.

Forge

those dont make much of a diffrence on the street for the money (atleast the DS). LCA are nice, i have them, but would not be in my top 5 things to do first (unless you want to track the car)

Forge

some have seen as high as 11 for CMDp's. In my experience, plan on about 6hp and 5tq for each. You might get more, but i think thats the safest bet.

Forge

the beauty of the N/A build is that you can piece it together as you go. No large chunks to throw down (most are all under 1200 - cams and LT's).

Supercharger or any boost for that matter is nice. TO me the only reason to go the all out street N/A build would be if you dont want to drop alot of money at one time (bad at saving money) or if you just want to keep it N/A for your own personall reasons (which is completly ok, its your car).

But for the bang for the buck, i would look at a single turbo kit (hellion, Granetelli (sp), or Powerhouse) or a non centri supercharger (KB, Wipple, Saleeen, magna). All of these FI kits are designed for street driving, so you wont see lag on the bottom end, rough idles, etc. You could start with the base kit (no intercooler or fuel system) for that 400hp and spend about 3500 (keep in mind a cam kit is about 1200, LT and xpipe is another 1200, so the N/A prices will build up fast).

as for looking stock, all the turbo kits and 1/2 of the SC kits will fit under the stock hood. Ive heard alot of people say the KB and saleen are really quiet, so wont have that obnoqious whine at idle and daily driving.

mustangfan123

My suggestions are in red.

kevinb120

They allow you to USE the new horsepower much more effectively, instead of having wheel hop and turning an iron pole to make the wheels rotate.

Forge

Oh i understand, but most people who own mustangs wont be launching their car from every stoplight. Hell i think i beat my car and i rarely launch it, i like just punching it on the interstate or in second gear. LCA's only help launches in my opinion.

And 800+ for a drive shaft is robbery, when they come down to 300ish, i will endorse them. $800 for a tube is outrageous, its not like this is new edge technology or the put a ton of R&D into them. Its a metal tube with connections on the ends. But if people keep paying that, they will stay at a high price. I just think money is better spent elsewhere.