Whats the difference between the 1200 and the 2200 Paxton systems? Sorry for the newb question. Just poking around at some future mods Is the Paxton 2200 worth the extra ~$1000. And wheres the best place to buy a complete setup. Thanks

 

Basically the 2200 is a BIG blower that can handle just about anything you want to throw at it, and is really designed for high boost applications that utilize power over 11+psi (Unsure of Blower RPM) It is more or less a Race Car style blower that can be run on the street.


The 1200 is the smaller version very comparable to Vortech's S-trim blower, which is basically a scaled down version of the 2200 -easily capable of producing enough power to blow up a stock motor- but is no where near as efficient as the 2200 at higher boost pressures.


Adam (2005sonicBoost) just installed a 2200 on his car, so Im sure he will chime in later...

 

+1 to the above. The 1200 is a smaller blower that comes in their base kits; the 2200 can support more power and comes in their 'cooled, HO kit.

 

Hmm, till I get outta school I wouldn't want more then 425rwhp to be safe. I dont drive hard. I'd maybe take it to a track once or twice a year. Just want some extra grunt around town. Thinking about this over a twin to still drive around town without really touching boost.

 

Hey Jonathan,
About what you said about wanting some "extra grunt" around town. At what RPM would you like to see this "grunt" at. Because if it below 3000-3500 rpm.... you DO NOT want a Vortec SC'er. You want a twinscrew!! This is very important. Decide where you want your power at!
Scott

 

^+1

If you are a stoplight racer, then you will want the off-idle boost of a twin screw. If you are a highway racer then you will want a centri blower.

 

You and Tom hit it Lets not forget that the 2200 comes with two bypass valves so you get a louder ultra cool bypass blowoff sound The 2200 is simply a more efficient blower!

-Adam

 

Whaaat!!!This is ridiculous I have a centri and my tires break loose at 4.5-5k in first and I have to shift to second and sometimes on certain surfaces they will break loose in second. I know guys with t/s that will not even stoplight race because they get no traction. They will only race from a roll. Not trying to pick on you but after having my centri installed last week and reading what you said I was like no way A t/s with similar hp will most likely break loose in a lower rpm than me because they have more torque down low. Unless your running drags I would much rather take a centri over a t/s for stoplight racing. Even right now I can't take any more power down low. Either blower is great for racing from a roll though.

 

Go with the 2200... get a safe tune... when you want to go crazy after you graduate, you have plenty of room with the blower....

 

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That is not a valid reason. The twin-screw blowers give zero boost just driving at partial throttle. It is like it is not there. They only give boost at wide open throttle. So you can cruise all day and not hit boost. I get 25 MPG on my twin-screw blown 4.6 and still turn low 11s at the track..

 

I really think this is a funny and touchy subject with a lot of guys depending what side of the fence you sit on. Can we get this debate over once and for all. Can any of you disagree with this.......

Twinscrews will give you grunt and torque off idle from like 1200-1500 rpm and up. They will lose some on the top end. Make the engine feel much larger than 281 cubic inches leaving from any stoplight.


Centi blowers are not that much noticable below 3000 rpm but come on hard after 3500-4000 and up rpm.


If I am wrong then post your objections but call them like they are and stop all of "I" have this and I have this stuff" They are what they are!!!! My post has a 666 in it so I guess I am just grumpy!!
Scott

 

Just speaking from experience but yeah t/s do have more torque down low and centri's will come on hard above 3.5. I agree with that...

 

 

I would still rather have a centri if I were to stoplight race though

 

No kidding!!!!! I stand by my post a couple of back!! Re-read post #11

 

I agree 100%

 

I want whats going to be easiest on the engine for commuting. I know its going to be hard on the engine period over stock but something which wont kill the car for highway commuting. I'll have 2yrs or so of it. I do like the statements about having power alittle later so not to tear the tires and spin. I dunno. I'm starting to save for one now. I'd rather do this then take a credit card(which I did already and almost used it). Last minute judgement call to wait it out a few months.


Ok, my mistake.

 

This is me speaking for my blower since this is a paxton thread Just don't go WOT after 3k and it is like driving the car stock. No worries...

I did the same thing, just save the cash and be patient and keep studing like you are, your time will come

Edit- unless your going WOT during commuting, both centri and t/s will be easy on the engine..

 

Thank you. I dont want to rush anything. After a couple of long days and getting the cash to charge a similar set-up. I decided I'd rather not be in so much debt at 20. Rather, continue to research slowly get feedback from you all with s/c'd cars and save to hopefully pay the entire system cash and then only really worry about maybe charging the install/dyno.

What caught me off gaurd was the shop install $$$, I'm getting CRAZY(least I think so) est. on shop install times around my area.

What I will do in the mean time to satisfy my mod fever is get my L/Ts installed hopefully within the next week or so and with extra cash get some d-spec shock struts and lca's. Get a nicer handling car.