hello all.
im been searching through threads on additional information and im still not clear.

so far, i did Tokico D-spec and Eibach Pro springs.

i have to get panhard bar adjustable to realign the rear.

what else do i need?

im only at spirited street/highway driver at best. probably will never track...

adjust or non-adjust lower control arms? rear only?

thanks all!

im just so confused with all the things i been reading....

 

you might want to check out bmrfabrication.com

they have great stuff!

 

thanks 05mustangman. i'll check their site. so far i heard they have the best stuff...

 

i am also a fan of steeda stuff.

I will be installing BMR subframe connectors and have installed a set of lower control arms on a friends car. good stuff at bmr

 

thanks all....

so any feedback on what would be needed in addition to the lowering springs?

panhard bar? lower control arms? control arm relocation brackets?

thanks again!

 

Not to steal this thread, but instead of starting a new thread with the same subject, I will just ask here. If I lower my car, and buy the non adjustable LCA's from BMR, do I have to also buy LCA reloc brackets, or are the brackets for adj LCA's?

 

thats pretty much inline with my questions...
if a car is lowered...what should we do? for me, im racing/dragging...im just spirited performance street driving and highway comfort.

thanks alll!

 

You need adjustable LCAs to adjust the pinion angle. Relocation brackets are advised also.

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm

 

That is a very good read ^
Add the Adj. Panhard also.

 

You really don't need the adjustable components unless you plan on doing some serious street racing. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that if you don't know how to properly adjust the suspension components you will make things worse. Fixed components are set at a happy medium for what you need. A good example of this is with the PJ Saleen Mustang which has a great handling package. It doesn't use adjustable upper and lower arms. Don't wast the extra money for adjustable components but buy a matched system that all of the components compliment each other.

 

He lowered it with the Eibachs, I would suggest adjustables to correct the instant center, and pinion angle so it wont wear the rear unecessary.
Theres a right way and a wrong way to do everything. And then the halfassed way.

 

I was always under the impression that the UCA adjusted the pinion angle better than the lowers. That's why I bought an adjustable upper and fixed lowers. Is this correct or incorrect?

 

The pinon angle can be corrected with either adjustable LCAs or UCA. The UCA is primarily responsible for pinon angle though. Alot of people correct it via the LCAs just because they are easier to adjust than reaching for the UCA. Getting the correct pinon angle is pretty important. You can get the weld in Relocation brackets to correct instant center, but its really not necessary unless you are serious about your launches. This is as I understand it.

 

You are correct. You can get away without the relocation brackets more so than the pinion angle. Incorrect pinion angle can lead to vibrations in the driveline.

UCA=much harder to adjust
LCA=very easy to adjust

 

How many times do you need to readjust pinion angle? It seems like once should be enough.

 

Once, but you should check it if you do things like lower the car, change out the driveshaft ect. Invest in a $10 angle finder.

 

hello all....

its looking like non-adjustable rear control arms and relocation brakets...

with the adjust. panhard bar to realign the rear...

 

stangsuspension and bmr gave me definitive answer on this.

Unless you are serious drag racer or track car..
after you lower your car you should get:

1. adjustable panhard bar
2. non-adjustable rear lower control arms
3. control arm relocation brackets

if you want more spirit handling you can get:
1. sway bars
2. strut mount tower brace

 

Not to go against what BMR is saying, but I'm surprised they didn't suggest a UCA to dial in the pinon angle. Pinon angle isn't really something that should be ignored until you start hearing a clunking sound. Also, the 3rd link on this car is a known soft point in the suspension, so why replace two links but not the third? Lastly, I believe BMR's relocation brackets are bolt in, if you are going to do relocation brackets at all, consider having them welded in to place.