Overhead console lamps - splicing for radar detector power, and changing bulbs?
#1
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Legacy TMS Member
Joined: October 2, 2006
Posts: 4,778
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From: Southeast Michigan
Overhead console lamps - splicing for radar detector power, and changing bulbs?
I would like to know if the overhead console lamp(s) can be tapped as a power source for an accessory such as a radar detector. Will it cut power to the detector within the 10-15 min for the accessory delay, or does the radar detector stay on indefinitely?
How do I remove the console assembly? I do not see any screws or fasteners on the exterior.
Can we swap out the bulbs for LEDs? I was thinking of using different colored LEDs for either reduced IR signature, better night vision, or just to be slightly different.
How do I remove the console assembly? I do not see any screws or fasteners on the exterior.
Can we swap out the bulbs for LEDs? I was thinking of using different colored LEDs for either reduced IR signature, better night vision, or just to be slightly different.
#4
#5
The overhaed console lamp housing pulls straight down as it is mounted with 2 clips - one on either side. I'm in the midst of adding footwell lighting and am going to tap off of the overhead map light illuminated entry curcuit. Just came across some goofy results with the test lamp last night - going at it again tonight.
#7
The overhead console lamp housing pulls straight down as it is mounted with 2 clips - one on either side. I'm in the midst of adding footwell lighting and am going to tap off of the overhead map light illuminated entry curcuit. Just came across some goofy results with the test lamp last night - going at it again tonight.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=50338
That discusson has another backlink to a discussion of electrochromic mirror installation that will provide even more details if you're interested. See below:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=15620
Finally, for specifics on footwell lighting installation, check out this link:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?p=267877
Good luck!
#8
There are two open blocks in the fusebox in the front passenger footwell. One is hot all the time and the other is switched. You can tap the switched one to get power for your radar detector. You can also grab a ground from near the fusebox as well.
It's been a while since I hardwired mine so I cant specifically remember exactly what number location they are but they didn't have any fuses in them from the factory. Use a voltmeer to test them. Ford makesit really simple to get power for either switched and non-switch applications.
Do not splice power from the overhead lights. I think there is a link in a post above that explains why.
It's been a while since I hardwired mine so I cant specifically remember exactly what number location they are but they didn't have any fuses in them from the factory. Use a voltmeer to test them. Ford makesit really simple to get power for either switched and non-switch applications.
Do not splice power from the overhead lights. I think there is a link in a post above that explains why.
#9
Metroplex.......
YES you can tap into the light to power a detector.
YES it will turn itself off in just a few minutes.
This install info is for a NON POWERED mirror.
NOTE: This is for a 2005 GT. The newer models MIGHT have a slightly different wiring plan.
I have had my detector installed like this for almost a year and NO problems.
Feel free to ask me any questions you might have. Good luck
You really wont need it, this is a very simple install.
Save your money on the smart cord.
PARTS:
1. A small inline fuse, 5 amps will be plenty.
2. 2 feet of “two wire phone cord with plug”.
3. Two sets of wire taps. Your choice. Or just tap directly to the wires and solder and tape.
(Most phone cords are two wire.) MOST! two wire GRAY phone cords have a RED and a GREEN wire inside. This is what I used and this is how I will describe the installation.
NOTE 1: My ESCORT 85 X50 would only allow me to wire it one way.
After you strip or use taps on the wires, just touch the plugged in phone wires to the stripped wires and the radar WILL beep or it won't.
Just switch wires if it does not. P.S. Turn on the radar before you try this.
NOTE 2: There are three BLACK wires coming from the light assembly,
two blacks are wired from the lights into a BLUE wire that has shrink wrap on it. This BLUE is the HOT or positive lead. The other BLACK wire coming from the harness is a loose BLACK lead for the entire light assembly (Lights and Motion sensor).
1. Pop off the overhead light case. Use a flat screw driver or just your hands...it is held in by just TWO compression clips on either side of the light.
2. Unplug the wiring harness to make your life easier.
3. Find the lose BLACK wire and tap that for the ground.
The RED phone wire goes to this.
4. Find the two BLACK wires that are wired to the BLUE light leads
and tap that for the power. The BLUE wire is longer and easier to tap.
The GREEN phone wire goes to this. Use the fuse here between BLUE wire and the GREEN wire.
5. Run the GRAY phone wire with the plug through the open slot in the headliner. The two feet of phone cord will be enough to mount the radar with suction cups anywhere on the high side of the windshield. Just tuck the extra cord into the headliner.
6. Plug in the factor harness, TEST EVERYTHING NOW! Reinstall the light case and you are done. P.S. You can leave the RADAR on it will shut down when the light turn off and restart when you turn off the alarm or open the doors.
YES you can tap into the light to power a detector.
YES it will turn itself off in just a few minutes.
This install info is for a NON POWERED mirror.
NOTE: This is for a 2005 GT. The newer models MIGHT have a slightly different wiring plan.
I have had my detector installed like this for almost a year and NO problems.
Feel free to ask me any questions you might have. Good luck
You really wont need it, this is a very simple install.
Save your money on the smart cord.
PARTS:
1. A small inline fuse, 5 amps will be plenty.
2. 2 feet of “two wire phone cord with plug”.
3. Two sets of wire taps. Your choice. Or just tap directly to the wires and solder and tape.
(Most phone cords are two wire.) MOST! two wire GRAY phone cords have a RED and a GREEN wire inside. This is what I used and this is how I will describe the installation.
NOTE 1: My ESCORT 85 X50 would only allow me to wire it one way.
After you strip or use taps on the wires, just touch the plugged in phone wires to the stripped wires and the radar WILL beep or it won't.
Just switch wires if it does not. P.S. Turn on the radar before you try this.
NOTE 2: There are three BLACK wires coming from the light assembly,
two blacks are wired from the lights into a BLUE wire that has shrink wrap on it. This BLUE is the HOT or positive lead. The other BLACK wire coming from the harness is a loose BLACK lead for the entire light assembly (Lights and Motion sensor).
1. Pop off the overhead light case. Use a flat screw driver or just your hands...it is held in by just TWO compression clips on either side of the light.
2. Unplug the wiring harness to make your life easier.
3. Find the lose BLACK wire and tap that for the ground.
The RED phone wire goes to this.
4. Find the two BLACK wires that are wired to the BLUE light leads
and tap that for the power. The BLUE wire is longer and easier to tap.
The GREEN phone wire goes to this. Use the fuse here between BLUE wire and the GREEN wire.
5. Run the GRAY phone wire with the plug through the open slot in the headliner. The two feet of phone cord will be enough to mount the radar with suction cups anywhere on the high side of the windshield. Just tuck the extra cord into the headliner.
6. Plug in the factor harness, TEST EVERYTHING NOW! Reinstall the light case and you are done. P.S. You can leave the RADAR on it will shut down when the light turn off and restart when you turn off the alarm or open the doors.
#14
I've had my escort's smart cord plugged into the map lights for 2 years and still going strong. I was the first one to do this on this forum, there's a writeup somewhere. Yes the power turns off after 10-15 minutes and turns back on when you unlock the doors
#17
you can absoluetely tap the map lights for a radar detector. no it wont turn off automatically. you will have to turn on and off the radar detector everytime you want to use it but you can for sure tap those wires. Dustindu4 did it and had a writeup on here somewhere
#19
Sirius Mounted The Same Way
Mike E
#20
OK, now I am confused. Some in this thread say the map lights will time off, and they have to unlock the doors to make it come back on, others say that it comes on and off with the ignition (switched hot), and still some say that they have to use the radar detector switch to make it turn on and off, which would make it a constant hot, so which is it? I am curious to know just which wire is a constant hot in the overhead that I can tap into. I have the factory 07 autodim compass mirror, but I am going to replace it with a Gentex autodim mirror with homelink, compass and temp. I can use some of the existing wiring from the current mirror harness (the ground, the reverse autodim defeat, and the switched hot), but I still need to tap a constant hot to power the homelink so you can open a garage door without the ignition on. I have seen the threads on where to tap near the fuse box, but since I can tap everything else up top, it would sure be nice to just know which wire up top is a constant hot to tap that is always on. If anybody knows, please clarify for me, as I am slow, ha, ha Thanks in advance