Oil Change: For those who want to do it themselves, but are a little unsure...
10/28/06, 10:18 PM
#21
Thread Starter
There's different ways to tighten bolts and nuts. Some prefer a socket and others a wrench. Use whatever you feel comfortable with (and some have no choice) and be careful not to overtorque the fastener with any tool.
10/29/06, 10:08 AM
#23
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When I drove the Stang up on the 2X12's, it gave me just enough room to get under the car to slide the catch pan under the oil pan and to get the filter off.
10/29/06, 02:58 PM
#24
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I changed mine yesterday and yes that filter is a mother to get off, managed to do so with just a filter wrench though. I also found I had to tighten the new filter much tighter than I'm used to stop leaks, yes I did oil the gasket. Another trick is to take a chisel or screwdriver, a hammer and punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter prior to removing it, this will allow the filter to drain. You don't have to hit it hard, just a light rap with a chisel and it will punch a nice little hole. Beats having oil running all overyour hands.
10/29/06, 03:29 PM
#25
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For those of you doing alot of your own oil changes, there is a tool that looks like a pair of pliers with with large curved jaws. available at most better auto parts stores. Makes it a snap to remove the old filter. The auto compnaies put those things on with a pneumatic tools, that makes em tough to get off the first time.
If you have a leak, you could have a double seal, especially if you had a hard time getting the old filter off. When you take the old filter off, always make sure the old seal comes off with it. If it sticks in place, its almost impossible to get a good seal.
If you have a leak, you could have a double seal, especially if you had a hard time getting the old filter off. When you take the old filter off, always make sure the old seal comes off with it. If it sticks in place, its almost impossible to get a good seal.
10/29/06, 05:01 PM
#26
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I also have the rhino ramps, but cannot drive up on them without them sliding forward. I have a regular concrete garage floor that's smooth. After a couple tries with the ramps, I went back to using my floor jack and a pair of jack stands. I'd rather use the ramps if I could get them to stay put, however.
10/29/06, 06:59 PM
#27
Thread Starter
10/30/06, 06:18 AM
#30
Shelby GT350 Member
Excellent write-up and pictures. The underside of your ride sure is clean!
To get the filter off, I use a filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" drive socket. Use a 3" extension on your ratchet, hook up the filter wrench, and it will get those filters off easily.
I personally use disposable latex gloves, like doctors and dentists wear. Obviously not necessary, and possibly considered wimpy by many,
but it makes cleanup a lot easier and the gloves are cheap, so why not?
I also have the rhino ramps, but cannot drive up on them without them sliding forward. I have a regular concrete garage floor that's smooth. After a couple tries with the ramps, I went back to using my floor jack and a pair of jack stands. I'd rather use the ramps if I could get them to stay put, however.
To get the filter off, I use a filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" drive socket. Use a 3" extension on your ratchet, hook up the filter wrench, and it will get those filters off easily.
I personally use disposable latex gloves, like doctors and dentists wear. Obviously not necessary, and possibly considered wimpy by many,
but it makes cleanup a lot easier and the gloves are cheap, so why not?I also have the rhino ramps, but cannot drive up on them without them sliding forward. I have a regular concrete garage floor that's smooth. After a couple tries with the ramps, I went back to using my floor jack and a pair of jack stands. I'd rather use the ramps if I could get them to stay put, however.
10/30/06, 06:47 AM
#31
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Good write up. Another thing to check is to make sure the gasket from the old filter didn't separate and stay adhered to the block. If that happens you will have a gusher when you start the engine. I have access to a lift and I use the aforementioned aluminum foil to create a runner for the oil when removing the filter - only way to stop the excess oil from running all over the place.
10/30/06, 07:07 AM
#32
Legacy TMS Member
The M1 oil filter is overkill. The FL-820-S has a silicone anti-drain back valve (just like the M1) and is only $3 and change at Wal-Mart. The filter media won't have enough time to ever clog up.
10/30/06, 07:12 AM
#33
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To add a couple of my own "personal" techniques:
1. Taking off the "Oil Fill" cap and loosening the dip stick before you start to drain the oil will allow for the outgoing oil to drain more effectively (and quicker).
2. I always make sure to dip my finger in the new oil and run it over the threads and really well over the ruber gasket on the new filter. It will help the seal. If you are pre-filling this shouldn't be a problem.
3. Remember that the new filter only needs to be hand tight. Don't get a wrench and crank down on it, it only makes it harder next time!
Just my $.02
1. Taking off the "Oil Fill" cap and loosening the dip stick before you start to drain the oil will allow for the outgoing oil to drain more effectively (and quicker).
2. I always make sure to dip my finger in the new oil and run it over the threads and really well over the ruber gasket on the new filter. It will help the seal. If you are pre-filling this shouldn't be a problem.
3. Remember that the new filter only needs to be hand tight. Don't get a wrench and crank down on it, it only makes it harder next time!
Just my $.02
10/30/06, 09:19 AM
#35
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I personally think synthetic is a waste of money. I also use motorcraft filters on my Fords. And for oil, Castrol, Mobil seem to work just fine.
But, good write up none the less. As hard as it is to believe, some people just don't know how to do this simple task.
But, good write up none the less. As hard as it is to believe, some people just don't know how to do this simple task.
10/30/06, 09:27 AM
#36
Legacy TMS Member
Synthetic oils are not a waste of money (it's what Ford uses for your differential from the factory) but the synthetic-media oil filters are a waste of money.
I'd personally go with full synthetic for everything:
engine oil
power steering
transmission
differential
greases
I'd personally go with full synthetic for everything:
engine oil
power steering
transmission
differential
greases
10/30/06, 05:44 PM
#37
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I dropped my plug into the pan of drained oil (the mesh screen flopped off when i tried to grab the plug)...
lets say the oil was super F'n hot and I practically burned my hand fishing the plug out of the oil...
i will never do that again...
** key note for first timers and us absent minded old timers.... dont drop the plug in the oil or if you do, have a strainer or claw handy **
lets say the oil was super F'n hot and I practically burned my hand fishing the plug out of the oil...
i will never do that again...
** key note for first timers and us absent minded old timers.... dont drop the plug in the oil or if you do, have a strainer or claw handy **
10/30/06, 05:46 PM
#38
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You'd be surprised out there how many people thinks it's hard to do.... or just don't know how.
<-- goto guy at my apartment complex for car repair...
11/24/06, 05:31 PM
#39
Mach 1 Member
I changed my oil today at 570 miles to get rid of all the crud from engine break-in. I found out that the ramps are too darn slippery so I had to use a floor jack and jack up the driver's side just a little bit and then I could easily get under the car.
I will agree that the factory filter is on way too tight. I can't see where this helps except I guess they can guarantee 100% no leaky at the filter?!? Anyways, the "jaws of life" almost destroyed my filter and I had to switch to one of those three prong filter removers from Sears. The kind that bite in harder as you turn them with a socket wrench. Anyways, I had no problems spinning the filter off with that; just an FYI for those that have problems using the jaw style (which is my personal favorite to use).
I will agree that the factory filter is on way too tight. I can't see where this helps except I guess they can guarantee 100% no leaky at the filter?!? Anyways, the "jaws of life" almost destroyed my filter and I had to switch to one of those three prong filter removers from Sears. The kind that bite in harder as you turn them with a socket wrench. Anyways, I had no problems spinning the filter off with that; just an FYI for those that have problems using the jaw style (which is my personal favorite to use).
