+1

Stefs setup

 

I just ordered the stuff to make one similar to the Stef's set up. only difference is I went with the Moroso can but they look pretty similar.

 

If you get a leak in the PCV system, your engine will stall. That includes any cracks in the air compressor filters you are using. The Stef's system looks robust but I want a full bolt-on kit and not have to source out individual fittings and find a mounting location myself. It's got to be made of all metal or a durable zytel nylon. Polycarbonate bowls are weak and will crack or age over time.

The 4.6/5.4 3V V8 engines DO have a PCV valve and PCV system. The 3V V8 engines don't have IAC's because of the drive-by-wire system that keeps the throttle plate open, not because the PCV was deleted. The 3V V8 engines don't have EGR valves because of the variable cam timing (VCT) system.

 

Stef's ALW!

 

What about that one? Should fits Mustang GT as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...mZ330270807721

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-S...=p4506.c0.m245

 

Both of those are cheap polycarbonate bowls designed to be used as air compressor filters. VW and Ford have OEM oil separators that are made of Dupont Zytel nylon. Check out the MZR 2.3L DOHC I4 that Ford uses on the Focus and Mazda3 - it has a neat oil separator that attaches to the engine block or at least according to the FSM.

 

Anyone with a Whipple care to share a couple pics of how and where you have it set up. I have a Stef's can and since there is so little room on the driver's side, just an idea of where others have put theirs would help me.

Dunno if it makes a difference or not, but I will be adding a SLP line lock on the drivers side shock tower as well.

Thanks in advance.

 

SoundGuyDave,

Would you be willing to post a parts list?

It looks like you used a 90deg fitting on each attachment to the Stef separator? Looks a lot better than having to run a long hose to accomodate a straight fitting on the side.

 

+1 on Stef's ~

 

When I ordered the can from Stef's, I explained what I wanted to do, and they recommended a can with 1/2" NPT holes for in and out...

Earls 984210 90* hose barb fittings (1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb)
5/8" stainless sheathing over emissions hose
Dress-up "AN look" clamps

I also cut the PCV line apart to get the 90* press-on fitting for the valve cover

If I had to do it over again, I would use a 90* pipe fitting for the bottom, and then use a 45* pipe to barb fitting, it would simplify the angle going to the manifold, and thus make mounting the can easier.

This is all from memory, so it may have been 3/4" NPT, but just order the fittings to match the can, and you'll be fine.

I went with that routing simply because I didn't like the big loop of hose, but be aware that I run the Prothane motor mounts, so mine doesn't torque over very much. With stock mounts and a good amount of torque, you may need to run the loop for strain relief.

 

Hello I saw this and would like to say that there is difference between the separator and catch can! The oil separator is going to pull unwanted fluid to the canister and they stay in the canister. For the catch can it actually reusues what get put in the canister! I went with separator just to make sure I wasn’t getting any unwanted surprises in my canister.

 

Oil separators and catch cans are pretty much one in the same, as their intended design is to pull crankcase oil vapors into the canister and are supposed to stay in the canister.

The problem however, is the cheaper designed separators such as JLT use very poor screen filtering which causes crankcase oil to pass through the PCV hose barb connectors and then get sucked into the intake manifold.

I know this through personal experience, as I started out with the JLT catch can/oil separator and despite the fact that it did trap some crankcase vapor oil, most of it still got past the PCV hoses and into the intake manifold. After JLT agreed to accept a return for a full refund, I did quite a bit of research before purchasing my next oil separator/catch can and in the end, I went with the UPR 4-chamber catch can/oil separator.

It's design consists of 3 aluminum disk screens which are attached to a vented tube wrapped with wire mesh screen along with small screens placed inside each of the PCV barb connectors.
Needless to say, after 4+years, not a single drop of crankcase vapor oil has gotten sucked into the intake manifold as a direct result. Therefore, not all catch can/oil separators are designed quite in the same way, so just something to keep in mind when choosing an oil separator/catch can. .

That being said, the purpose behind all catch cans/oil separators, is not only to pull crankcase vapor oil into their canisters, but also to prevent it from re-entering the crankcase, to begin with!

Meanwhile, hope you find this info useful and also welcome aboard.