GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Next logical step?

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Old 6/11/05, 07:24 PM
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My goal is to get into the 12's, with a dealer/warranty friendly setup. I'd love to go SC, but not really an option right now. (-$$)

So, I got a CAI, tune, and cat backs. Thinking of going with an electric water pump for the next mod, maybe another 10 ponies? What do you guys think?

Or maybe Xpipe, but I love the way the car sounds now, and we take it on long trips, and really don't want it to get too much louder. No emission control laws in FL, so do I really need those cats for the warranty....?

Same with the gears. I've gone from 3.55 to 4.10's in other vehicles, and loved the performance gain, but didn't like the 10% drop in gas mileage and the higher revs on the interstate. Speaking of gears, though, which are the best/quitest/durable?

I guess with every mod there is a trade off. Like what about LCA or a better panhard bar? Rougher ride? Noises and squeaks?

Just tossing around some options, not trying to reinvent the wheel or cover every performance mod, just looking for opinions on getting some gains out of a daily driver.

Thanks for the help!
Old 6/12/05, 08:54 AM
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I would go with headers and a midpipe, but as you said you dont want to change the sound. Maybe underdrive pulleys?
Old 6/12/05, 09:57 AM
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I would definately go with some lower control arms to remove any wheel hop and avoid any damage. I haven't noticed any additional noises or vibrations. If you add headers or midpipes, it'll definately change the sound. I wouldn't do anything more than the 4.10's as far as gears go. If you went to 4.30's, you'll hear more noise that you'll be unhappy with. Why would you want an electric water pump? It would free up little parisitic loss, but for your application, I think it'll be excessive. If you plan on running it at the track, I would say yes. I'm just trying to think as if you're only driving it on the street. I think the car looks a lot better dropped 1". You would need to have a good alignment guy. Some have been told they need new camber plates and a panhard bar. I've seen some, as well as myself, not needing them. You can get a few gains from charge motion plates.
Old 6/12/05, 10:19 AM
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Without S/C'ing or nitrous, I would say that long tube header's would be a logical next step. I got nice gains from JBA Longtubes and off road H-pipe (22 RWHP & 20 RWTQ). I know you like the sound but longtubes will just magnify that sound, it will sound great trust me. I have the BMR lower contral arm's (non-adjustable) and I love them, cured almost all my wheel hop. They are just as quiet as stock and stiffin up the ride just a tiny bit. Another mod I really liked was the Steeda race motor mount's. It won't help cut your track times persay, but man it really helps put alot more torque to the rear end and fast! I couldn't believe the differance they made! My next performance Mod's will include An electric water pump, Motive 3.90 gears (a nice compromise between 3.73 & 4.10's), and a Livernois port and polish job on the head's. Also something to think about is the rear tires. I'm buying an extra set of Bullet rims and mounting some MT drag radial's, that will really help on the 60 foot times. That way you can just mount'em up on race day. Hope all this rambeling helps. Just trying to think of thing's I have found to be sucsessful...
Old 6/12/05, 03:21 PM
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Sounds good. Thanks for all the tips. I'm leaning towards the BMR LCAs. With some of the driveways I frequent, lowering the car is not an option, it scrapes already at stock height (mountain homes with 45 degree driveways).

Some people have claimed the JBA longtubes were a PITA to instal, which has got me a little hesitant about trying to put them on. I guess I could always have a shop do. I'll have to read up on people's experience with installing at home with regular tools.

I saw that the electric water pump free'd up over 10 RWHP, which got me interested. 10 ponies for 300 bucks sounds fair.

I'll check into the Steeda motor mounts as well, though I have no way to support the engine while I swap them out. Once again, might have a shop do it, I'll read up on that too.

Thanks again for all the help. Car is running good, but always looking for better.
Old 6/12/05, 03:55 PM
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Originally posted by Hatchman@June 12, 2005, 5:24 PM
Sounds good. Thanks for all the tips. I'm leaning towards the BMR LCAs. With some of the driveways I frequent, lowering the car is not an option, it scrapes already at stock height (mountain homes with 45 degree driveways).

Some people have claimed the JBA longtubes were a PITA to instal, which has got me a little hesitant about trying to put them on. I guess I could always have a shop do. I'll have to read up on people's experience with installing at home with regular tools.

I saw that the electric water pump free'd up over 10 RWHP, which got me interested. 10 ponies for 300 bucks sounds fair.

I'll check into the Steeda motor mounts as well, though I have no way to support the engine while I swap them out. Once again, might have a shop do it, I'll read up on that too.

Thanks again for all the help. Car is running good, but always looking for better.


Forget the electric water pump, Alternative Auto got 4 rwhp from it.


Electric Water Pump


Look at the side bars on the right hand side of the page.
Old 6/13/05, 09:18 AM
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I recommend the LT headers as well. And also a mid-pipe with high flow cats. You'll get more HP but the car won't be too much louder. My advice is to have a shop install your headers, and when they do so they can install the Steeda motor mounts. I will be doing the same thing when I get my MAC LT headers and Pro-Chamber. I am all about installing things myself but that's a big job, and I just don't have the right equipment.
Old 6/13/05, 09:49 AM
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Originally posted by acadian@June 13, 2005, 9:21 AM
I recommend the LT headers as well. And also a mid-pipe with high flow cats. You'll get more HP but the car won't be too much louder. My advice is to have a shop install your headers, and when they do so they can install the Steeda motor mounts. I will be doing the same thing when I get my MAC LT headers and Pro-Chamber. I am all about installing things myself but that's a big job, and I just don't have the right equipment.
Hey Ian,
Just reading your sig and noticed the futute tire you plan on installing. I would like to know why the potenza's...I just ordered the BFG KDWS, 38 special seems to love his and reports good wear so far. What are your thoughts on this?
I will be following your lead and will be cutting my springs( a little more than 3/4 of a coil, probably about 7/8) ASAP after the tires are installed...then I will evaluate the looks and make a final decision on the spacers.
Sorry to kind of drift off topic
Old 6/13/05, 11:24 AM
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finish the exhaust first, then go for engine parts. Get yourself a good set of ceramic headers and go with a good x-pipe. My thing with electric water pumps, if you lose electricity or something goes wrong with the electric system, you may well overheat your vehicle, IMO, go with an underdrive pulley set, belt driven! Then do your gears and what not, but free up the rest of the exhaust first!
Old 6/13/05, 12:38 PM
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Originally posted by davids2toys@June 13, 2005, 10:52 AM
Hey Ian,
Just reading your sig and noticed the futute tire you plan on installing. I would like to know why the potenza's...I just ordered the BFG KDWS, 38 special seems to love his and reports good wear so far. What are your thoughts on this?
I will be following your lead and will be cutting my springs( a little more than 3/4 of a coil, probably about 7/8) ASAP after the tires are installed...then I will evaluate the looks and make a final decision on the spacers.
Sorry to kind of drift off topic
I like the Potenza's because I saw them on some stock bullitts and really like the way they look. I like an aggressive tread pattern too which the BFG's do not have. Also, if you research on tirerack, the Potenza beat out the BFG in every category except for snow traction, which I have no need for down in south Louisiana. Here are the ratings, with the Potenza's first, BFG's second:

HANDLING RATING 8.60 / 8.40
DRY TRACTION 8.9 / 8.6
WET TRACTION 8.5 / 8
SNOW TRACTION N/A / 6.1
RIDE COMFORT 8.1 / 7.6
NOISE COMFORT 7.9 / 7.6
WEAR 8.2 / 6.9

The Potenza's are about a hundred bucks more for the set of 4... but not a lot to pay when I change my tires only once every 2-3 years.

On subject, I agree that an electric water pump is not for a street car. And you really aren't going to see the gains that you are expecting for $300+. You may get 5HP, if that.
Old 6/13/05, 01:21 PM
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I was told by many people, that the KDWS are more of a truck tire...and give a harsh ride.

I love my new pirelli's.
Old 6/13/05, 02:04 PM
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The tread pattern looks a bit like they'd be on my f-150. The Pirelli's are a good tire also, but I need the 255/50's on my stock bullitts.
Old 6/14/05, 12:05 AM
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[quote=acadian,June 13, 2005, 12:41 PM]
I like the Potenza's because I saw them on some stock bullitts and really like the way they look. I like an aggressive tread pattern too which the BFG's do not have. Also, if you research on tirerack, the Potenza beat out the BFG in every category except for snow traction, which I have no need for down in south Louisiana. Here are the ratings, with the Potenza's first, BFG's second:

HANDLING RATING 8.60 / 8.40
DRY TRACTION 8.9 / 8.6
WET TRACTION 8.5 / 8
SNOW TRACTION N/A / 6.1
RIDE COMFORT 8.1 / 7.6
NOISE COMFORT 7.9 / 7.6
WEAR 8.2 / 6.9

The Potenza's are about a hundred bucks more for the set of 4... but not a lot to pay when I change my tires only once every 2-3 years.

I see your point!!!
Old 6/14/05, 01:15 AM
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Ian,
Aren't you comparing an all season tire (BFG's) to a summer tire (Potenza's)?
Too bad there aren't more offerings in that size.
Old 6/14/05, 09:16 AM
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Jason, that's true. I guess if you live down south like us and don't have to worry about snow, the summer tire is all you need. Dave, you might need the BFG afterall. That's pretty much the only all season available in 255/50/17.

There are actually 3 I think. Try this link.
Old 6/14/05, 12:01 PM
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Yeah we have the humidty to put up with, but I'll take that over snow anyday.
Old 7/13/05, 07:14 AM
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@June 12, 2005, 10:22 AM
Without S/C'ing or nitrous, I would say that long tube header's would be a logical next step. I got nice gains from JBA Longtubes and off road H-pipe (22 RWHP & 20 RWTQ). I know you like the sound but longtubes will just magnify that sound, it will sound great trust me. I have the BMR lower contral arm's (non-adjustable) and I love them, cured almost all my wheel hop. They are just as quiet as stock and stiffin up the ride just a tiny bit. Another mod I really liked was the Steeda race motor mount's. It won't help cut your track times persay, but man it really helps put alot more torque to the rear end and fast! I couldn't believe the differance they made! My next performance Mod's will include An electric water pump, Motive 3.90 gears (a nice compromise between 3.73 & 4.10's), and a Livernois port and polish job on the head's. Also something to think about is the rear tires. I'm buying an extra set of Bullet rims and mounting some MT drag radial's, that will really help on the 60 foot times. That way you can just mount'em up on race day. Hope all this rambeling helps. Just trying to think of thing's I have found to be sucsessful...
I have purchased the Steeda LCA's, they are not installed yet. I have not experiance the wheel hop thing yet...I did my first burnout yesterday, launched it at 4k, it went right to the rev limiter much quicker than I thought, banged second, again right to the rev limiter...I did not feel or hear anything resembling wheel hop, I am trying to determine if I even need the LCA's , Can some tell me how to produce the wheel hop so I can determine to sell or keep the LCA's. If I had my choice, I would rather not have them because I dont want to increase noise or comprimise the ride. I purchased the Steeda street/ race LCA's
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