I'm at 50,000 miles and figure it won't be too long before I need new brakes.

I heard a service rep at a ford dealer say that with our new cars they typically replace the rotors with the brakes.

This sounds odd to me.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I always thought the rotors could last through a few sets of pads?

Are there any major advantages to replacing the rotors?

Thanks,
Danny

 

That's proposterous. They're just trying to milk you for money.

 

Measure the thickness of the rotor. This number is usually cast into a non machined surface of the rotor. It will read something like "min thick.." and the number. If the thickness of the rotor is more than this number and if the rotor visually looks ok, e.g. not grooved and relatively smooth, chances are that by the time you machine the rotors you will still be within spec.
If you have a situation where the rotor is only a few thousandths thicker than the spec and there are visible grooves, chances are that by the time you machine them enough to get a good surface again the rotor will be beyond spec.
Bottom line, don't trust a shop. Disc brakes are very easy to work on and you can do all of this yourself and then you don't have to wonder if you are getting screwed.
For the puropse of working on brakes, a cheap vernier caliper is all you need to check the thickness of your rotors and many auto parts stores will machine your rotors for a small fee.
Just do it yourself and then you will KNOW that it's done right.

 

http://www.rotorpros.com/index.htm

this is what I just did and only have 1983 miles on the car.

 

Dan,
I agree with 281GT. Have your rotors checked for thickness. If the can be resurfaced and stay above the minimum thickness cast in the rotor you are good to go.
Scott

 

Thanks guys.

How much width would machining take off the rotor? As you both said, I will check that acceptable thickness = min + machining.

I also have a digital caliper to measure with so this should be a snap.

 

If they are in reasonable shape I would think no more than .060 total. That would be .030 per side. Or in your world...1.5 mm max....0.75 mm per side.
Scott

 

I agree with the above. AT least have them turned(machined). You don't want them new brake pads on them ragged old rotors do ya?

Seriously though, this can save you alot of heartache from squeaks, vibration, etc.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if the rotors are worn beyond spec or at least close. My daughter bought a used BMW with 33k miles on it and the front rotors failed state inspection do to wear. Some cars eat rotors mainly due to the modern brake pads having lots of metal in the friction material. I haven't heard anything on how much our stangs eat rotors though.

 

This is the deal with modern brakes, back in the old days when they used organic pads, you could make a really hard well wearing rotor because foreign materials would bed themselves in the pad (to control squealing) rather than get pinched between the rotor and the pad. When organic pads were legislated out of exsistance and they went with metallic pads, rotors were softened up so that foreign materials would bed themselves into the rotor instead. Ergo, rotors get trashed easier than they used too (part of the reason rotors are so easy to replace now). So its not incovieable that after 50 or 60k, they need to be replaced.

Now onto some things to consider. If you drive your car hard, consider replacing them. A brake works by converting energy, the kinetic energy of your car is converted into thermal energy which is dissipated by the brakes, when you machine them down, they cannot absorb as much heat reducing thier effectiveness. Another thing to consider while your getting you brake job done is having the brakes bleed and fluid replaced. Sounds crazy, but you get any moisture out and more importantly, any loose particles in the braking system are bleed out as well which typically originate at the caliper and if you simply press the pistons back into the calipers you can force these contaminates into the system which can cause the ABS/TC system to malfunction. At the very least verify that the tech cracks the bleeder screws and drains the fluid from the caliper rather than just use a c-clamp or the like to compress the pistons.

 

I agree with that completely. The brake bluid is like a moisture sponge. It quickly absorbs moisture which speeds up corrosion and deterioration of brake hydraulic components, not to mention the wear debris caught up in the fluid. Every 2 years I change brake fluid.

 

On the subject of rotors, check out the prices at newtakeoff.com...

 

Thats insane. Used to work for a Ford dealer (about 4 months ago) as a Service Advisor and NEVER heard of that. Unless you WANT to replace the rotors with something new (Cross-Drilled and/or Slotted) you replace them when they NEED to be.

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Thank you.

 

I agree it is absurd....I used to be a service writer at a Mercedes Benz dealer and while WE never did this, MANY service writers out there will put the old sales pitch on you to get higher ticket averages. It is VERY common(more so than not) today that dealerships rate their service writers on "average ticket $$$"...and that is fact.

As far as brake pads go....many places sell high metallic content pads (such as Mr. Tire) and offer you a "lifetime replacement" deal....sure they will...the brake pads contain materials harder than the rotor surface itself so they give you a new set of pads but charge you the labor AND sell you new rotors....so who wins out here? It's a scam of sorts.

There ARE brake pads out there that are not like this but you have to do your research...you can still get organic pads but if you want something performance related then do your homework on what you are buying. Stillen makes Metal Matrix pads which do not contain anything harder than the rotor surface itself...they wear well and the perform even better. While I am a Stillen Brake Pros distributor this is not a sales pitch....this is from my experience and using these brakes is why I became a distributor....in 8 years I have never had a failure and NEVER had to replace a rotor from pad wear whether on an open track or street car.

Also, Be VERY careful where you buy rotors.....there are rotors made overseas and then US made rotors. Stay FAR away from overseas rotors (ie: Powerslot/Powerstop), the inferior castings WILL crack and is why the old wives tale of "crossdrilled rotors crack" is around and that is just not true...ANY rotor can crack given the right circumstances.

Brakes are probably the MOST importan upgrade or even maintenance item you can do to your car so know what you are buying and spend the money once.....and in this area you DO get what you pay for....if it's cheap, there is a reason for it!

 

I'd argue tires first, brakes second :P And good advice on that second bit, buy cheap, get cheap (unless its a smok'n deal on some normally expensive good stuff).

 

That is true....tires are VERY important as well and Tires ARE part of your braking system when you get down to it....buy cheap tires that are hard and you'll just slide, good tires that grip will aid in braking.

 

Hey SVOPaul,

Thanks much for the post. Yes, the $$/ticket (RO or Repair Order) is still going on. If your repair order wasnt over a certian amount, you didnt receive a bonus for the month (much needed since there is no salary - its a commission position). And, if you wrote a specific $$ in tickets in a given month, you received yet another bonus. Tough business for sure.

Not only the Metal Matrix pads, but for SOME cars (ie: GT500) the Mintex Xtreme HP Pads (or Mintex Motorsports pads).

And yes, you are correct about rotors. I recently purchased a set of rotors (actually, an "upgrade" kit) from a competitor (who shall remain un-named) - just to see first hand how they compared. I was AMAZED at how cheap they were (which explains why their price is so much less than ours). Printed right on the box was "Made In China". The rotors had whats called core shift (vanes didnt come to the edge of the rotor on all sides), and there is no way they could have been balanced (no machine marks on them from the balance process). Have seen similar rotors from other competitors also. Almost wish I could post pictures of them here for all to see. There is NO way we would ever produce brake components like that.

If there is ever anything I can to do help, please dont hesitate to give me a call (866-278-8287 x134) or shoot me an E-Mail (PNicholson@Stillen.com).

Thanks Much

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