Looking for stock like pedal pressure and driveability or as close to it as I can get. My car will be mainly street driven. Any ideas?

 

Well you have several different options available from Spec and Fidanza. Also you have Centerforce and Ram clutches. I will likely be going with a Spec 2+ or 3 with a matching flywheel- I can't decide if I want an aluminum flywheel or steel.

 

I have heard that the Spec 3+ has very acceptable pedal pressure; however, some descrive it as an 'on/off" clutch that is a little tricky in traffic.

I'm a little conflicted on the flywheel as well. There is about a 14lb difference between aluminum and steel. I'm tempted to just keep the OEM flywheel and resurface it.

 

Regarding flywheels, I've been told by my tuner that the aluminum will feel more lively on the street because of less inertia- it will rev quicker but also the revs will fall faster too, so it may need a little more gas to pull away from stoplights, etc. Some people on the forums have mentioned more vibration and noise when using the aluminum too.

 

I use the Fidanze 4.3 with the alum FW and love it. And for the "on/off" they all do that but its not a big deal at all.

 

I've got the Spec 3+ and Spec AL flywheel. I can pretty much back up everything Tom said.

Pedal pressure is the same as stock, or maybe a hardly noticeable increase. Very on/off, tough to drive in traffic. Stalled the car quite a few times, quite embarrassing. It still has slipped a few times in 3rd or 4th on WOT shifts, which I thought was kind of odd considering its very grippy nature.

Aluminum flywheel spins up faster, no doubt. It'll bounce off the rev limiter really quick in first if the tires break traction. Definite reduction in engine breaking. Car feels lighter. Might have helped gas mileage .5 mpg or so. Not as big a difference as the Denny's driveshaft, but noticeable. But, once again, the lighter flywheel lets the engine loose momentum easier and stall. A steel flywheel will help keep it spinning until the clutch engages without having to rev the engine and feather the throttle during engagement. So the AL is harder to drive. But the weight reduction will get more power to the ground and rev in the power band sooner.

Also, more noise/chatter at idle with clutch not engaged. Once the clutch pedal is pressed in or a gear is engaged, all is fine and normal, but sitting at idle in neutral without clutch depressed, it sounds like there is loose gear teeth clanking around in the tranny, a definite increase in noise/vibration/harshness in the tranny. I just press the clutch pedal in if it really bugs me in traffic. I might go back to steel one day. Not sure if it's worth the quick rev/less rotating mass.

If this clutch died tomorrow, I'd have to try the Centerforce. Can't go back to stock, it slipped way to much at WOT, though normal driving was great.

 

The Centerforce dual friction is not going to be acceptable for 600 rwhp...I know, I have one. It's been great, but at around 500 rwhp I think it's at it's limit. Once in a while while getting a super fast speed shift ito 3rd gear I feel it slip just a bit which may be saving my input shaft.

I'm going to say go with a Centerforce DFX. That's what I'll switch too later. Justin Burcham swears by the DFX and has had excellent feedback from customers and his own experience.

 

Hows the street manners of the DFX? My wife's GT/CS is running a H.O. Whipple and I'm flopping between the Dual Friction and the DFX.....

 

I have a DF and it's just fine at just below 500rwhp, but Justin Burcham swears by the DFX clutch set ups. He should know. If I were you I'd call him and ask cause he's installed plenty and could give you a good description of the street manners. 1-866-JPC-RACE