My car started off as a nitrous car 100-125 shot and I sprayed it all the time. Melted a few sets of spark plugs too. Moved on to a turbo kit making 502rwhp at 10psi. I beat the hell out of the stock motor. Pretty much WOT everyday for about a year, 1000 mile road trips, running it at 13psi on race gas, long top end pulls on the street, raced every week, etc. We tore it apart to make more power and the internals were perfect. Not a single scratch on them.

 

It's not impossible with a good tune, but it is one of the few.

 

Ok well im seein anywhere between 400-450hp to the wheels as the "buffer zone."
Anyone know what the buffr zone on 1999-2004 GT's are? Or would they be the same? Cuz im no engine expert and idk how much difference 1 valve per cylinder makes cuz other than that its practically the same motor as 2005-2010 v8's right?

 

I believe the motors are totally different. They all run on the same princapals but i think are designed differently. I have a friend with a twin turbo 2004 gt thats running 475rwhp without his 125 shot on it. Has been runnin like that for 4 years now and tge motor has not been apart one time since he built it.. It all comes down to the integrity of the work and how good the tuner is.

 

Yea ive heard of guys running a ton of power compared to the s197 model range with stock internals and never going off without a hitch. Also heard stories tho of a guy pushing 351/320 hp/ lb ft and his motot blew out on em. I know because i was that guy:/

 

Another important thing to consider is what kind of RPM you are running. Most of the failures on the Internet occurred when revving the engine well past the original 6200 rpm redline. The rods literally pull themselves apart.

 

A conservative tune and a forged block FTW.

I used to run the blower on the stock block, with less boost, but always worried about it.

Any engine will blow. It's a matter of how far you push it, the tune, and Luck.

 

i hope this can help, heres the specs for 2007 ford mustang used engines for sale gt

 

So a 76mm- 88mm turbo charger is not a such a good idea for an 06 mustang gt?

 

Race applications only. Way too big for street use. Give you an impressive dynosheet for your ego, but otherwise a waste and counterproductive.

Noticed how lots of folk with 500-600+ rwhp in their sigs, don't post ETs. That is because often, they are slower than some cars with 400-450 rwhp that are a better balance between power and traction.

 

And a lot don't post their actual sheets either... so they say that they made xxx on a dyno but don't have the sheet to back it up.

 

Thanks for the save on that one. So what would you recommend for street use

 

I heard around 500 at the crank but like others here I don't have anything to back that up...


INMO if you have the money that BOSS 302 or standard 5.0 Conversion kit is looking nice
instead of putting in a ton of money into getting as much out of the 4.6 as you can orrr....

get the top end kit and be happy with that..

 

If you're trying to keep the motor stock that would be a total waste. On a big build that would be fine.

 

62mm, maybe 67mm....gobs of torque and still a very responsive pedal. I would want to keep in the 450 rear wheel range for a daily driver, but then I don't street race.