Mustang feels like 75 Cadillac
Mustang feels like 75 Cadillac
It actually doesn't feel that bad, but I would like to tighten it up a bit. I know I could throw some springs on it and call it a day but is they're a better way that I'm not thinking of? This is my first solid rear axel car and I know nothing of pan hard bars and watts links, lower control arms... I just replaced the struts and shocks with new ones and the car drives nice but it still feels a bit loose. I was looking at Ford Racing "P" springs. I don't want to really lower my car so they seem like a good choice. Any opinions on them? Thanks.
If you get lowering springs you'll need caster camber plates, adjustable panhard bar, and probably a 4 wheel alignment. I got springs for my bday (I wanted the drag-launch springs and got the pro kit), read up on them and exchanged them. Didn't feel like spending an extra $500 to install springs I wasn't in love with. If you don't get the extras save lots of money for a good supply of tires.
I ordered springs and love my car lowered but had to buy the caster camber kit additional 200 plus alignment and install so extra 400 min on top if springs, I'm looking for some suspension upgrades before I put a supercharger on as we'll, I her the rear strut bar and front strut bar do well but I'm really in the dark on suspension tech.
Originally Posted by DPHC13
Sounds like a noob question but if I lower it only about an inch would I still need plates? Or will it be a car by car basis?
It actually doesn't feel that bad, but I would like to tighten it up a bit. I know I could throw some springs on it and call it a day but is they're a better way that I'm not thinking of? This is my first solid rear axel car and I know nothing of pan hard bars and watts links, lower control arms... I just replaced the struts and shocks with new ones and the car drives nice but it still feels a bit loose. I was looking at Ford Racing "P" springs. I don't want to really lower my car so they seem like a good choice. Any opinions on them? Thanks.
You didn't state what struts and shocks you installed... adjustable?
No! Camber bolts maybe those are only 25 bucks or so. You can drop it more and still get away with just camber bolts. I run the steeda sports with just the bolts and everything is fine. If you don't want to drop it I have read after market sway bars help a lot, which may be a good place to start for you. Less body roll in the turns
It's definitely a good idea to figure out what you want to do with the car first. If it's just a street ride, no racing, no drag, and all you want is better handling, Steeda's springs do not give you a pronounced drop and it improves the handling. Since the drop is not significant, you won't need caster/camber plates or anything else to correct the geometry, although it is true that for whatever reason it appears to be on a car by car basis (some people needed bolts to achieve stock spec alingment).
Adjustable panhard bars and support are mostly for lowered cars so you can center the rear end, again, if your drop is not significant, you won't need it.
Another suggestion is solid non-adjustable LCAs to help your launch and eliminate wheelhop? Will make the rear end feel stronger and better traction on take offs.
The last option is go crazy with the drop, get a good set of shocks/struts (adjustables if possible), you will need every toy available out there to fix the geometry and have a great handling car, but it will definitely be TOTAL overkill if you don't race it (road, autocross, drag). If you go down that route, you will need:
- Front Sway Bar with Steeda Billet Mounts
- Swaybar Endlinks, Bumpsteer and Ball Joints to fine tune the front end
- Adjustable Shocks, Springs, CC plates
- Watts link to make it feel more like a live axle rather than a solid one
- Rear Sway Bar
- Adjustable Rear LCA w/relocation brackets
- Depending on the drop you may need an UCA to adjust pinion angle
And there you have it, a total beast, but it may be overkill for you. That's definitely the route I'm going though. Looking forward to being done.
Adjustable panhard bars and support are mostly for lowered cars so you can center the rear end, again, if your drop is not significant, you won't need it.
Another suggestion is solid non-adjustable LCAs to help your launch and eliminate wheelhop? Will make the rear end feel stronger and better traction on take offs.
The last option is go crazy with the drop, get a good set of shocks/struts (adjustables if possible), you will need every toy available out there to fix the geometry and have a great handling car, but it will definitely be TOTAL overkill if you don't race it (road, autocross, drag). If you go down that route, you will need:
- Front Sway Bar with Steeda Billet Mounts
- Swaybar Endlinks, Bumpsteer and Ball Joints to fine tune the front end
- Adjustable Shocks, Springs, CC plates
- Watts link to make it feel more like a live axle rather than a solid one
- Rear Sway Bar
- Adjustable Rear LCA w/relocation brackets
- Depending on the drop you may need an UCA to adjust pinion angle
And there you have it, a total beast, but it may be overkill for you. That's definitely the route I'm going though. Looking forward to being done.
I just want less float. The car rolls over a bit in the turns. I run 1/4 mile every once in a while but thats about it. So it's a street car. I'm not looking at lowering it necessarily I just want it to feel tighter. Thats why I would only want to lower it 1" MAX. I replaced my struts and shocks with new 2012 units. By the way that fixed the dreaded clunking sound that most Mustangs get.
Originally Posted by DPHC13
I just want less float. The car rolls over a bit in the turns. I run 1/4 mile every once in a while but thats about it. So it's a street car. I'm not looking at lowering it necessarily I just want it to feel tighter. Thats why I would only want to lower it 1" MAX. I replaced my struts and shocks with new 2012 units. By the way that fixed the dreaded clunking sound that most Mustangs get.
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