I know we have a bunch of older threads about using Mobil 1 and when it should be introduced into an engine.

To be thread specific, this topic is about using Mobil 1 from the get go.

Argument: If we believe that synthetic oils should not be used in a new engine (but rather use conventional oils for the first 500 to 2000 miles, depending on opinion) because it will not allow the piston rings, cam, etc. not to mate properly (because of its lubricating properties), then why do the following vehicles come factory filled with synthetic oil (Mobil 1)?

Cadillac (CTS, SRX, XLR), Chevrolet Corvette, Mercedes-Benz AMG, Dodge Viper, all Porsche models, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, Ford Mustang Cobra R, and Aston Martin models, and all new Mercedes-Benz vehicles sold in the U.S.

Based on this argument, all of the noted vehicles never really get to ‘break-in’ their engines.


Here's Mobil 1's official response on this topic:

Thank you for contacting Mobil.
Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining compared to the engines of 10 and 20 years ago. The old concept of "engine break-in" involved two primary elements:

Removing any metal flashing (called swarf) or abrasive material thus allowing valves and rings to "seat" properly.

Today's engines do not require these break-in periods. In fact, Mobil 1 has shown excellent control of oil consumption in the industry standard ASTM Sequence III E test, which uses a completely rebuilt engine for each new test run. This includes freshly honed cylinders, new pistons, and new rings (compression and oil control). The engine is exposed to only the test oil after rebuild. The outstanding oil consumption control of Mobil 1 in this test demonstrates that the old "seating" issue is not of concern in well machined engines. And don't forget that Mobil 1 is used as initial fill on Corvette and Porsche engines.
However, if the engine rebuilder is using older machining equipment or lower quality components, it can leave you with an engine containing swarf or abrasive material inside the engine. In this situation, you would be best served by using a short drain interval on your initial oil fill.
Mobil 1 will still work in this situation, but it would be less expensive to use a conventional oil for this first, short duration fill.

If you have any additional questions, you may contact us at our E-mail address: lubes@ffx.mobil.com or by phone at 1-800-ASKMOBIL.

 

I suggest reading the following article:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This article discusses what I believe to be a credible best break in approach.
However, anyway you look at it the car will run fine with any oil you put into it. All this scrutiny is just for the perfectionist out there that want to squeeze every little bit of power and life out of there engines.

 

Adam-
I hear you. I only started this thread because almost everyone (even on other boards) says not to use Mobil 1 when an engine's new. And it's not only for the 'perfectionist', it's meant to inform and educate the 'Regular Joe' so he can make a decision as whether or not to use synthethic oils for break-in, instead of relying on what he heard or read from somebody's post on a forum.

Too bad the linked article didn't elaborate more for the reason of not using synthetics for the break-in.

(Quote)
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.

 

I'm not sure the answer is fully discussed in that first article I posted a link to, but what I got from all of his articles is there are ways to improve on the standard break in period. First there is some benefit to an early oil change after 20 miles or so to get the initial miscellaneous small metal pieces out of an engine. Second, performance and a reduction in blow by can be enhanced by getting a good seal between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. This occurs by friction between the piston ring and the cylinder. The amount of friction is a function of the force exerted by piston rings onto the cylinder wall and the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces. Running the engine hard increases the force and running conventional oil increases the friction. The fine pattern in the cylinder walls should only last approximately into 1500 mi. and after that the use of synthetic oil would be optimal. Furthermore 80% of the matting of the surfaces occurs in the first 20 mi. and the remaining 20% over the next 1500.

 

Read an article in the newspaper a couple of days ago and they recommended waiting till about 3000 miles before going to synthic to give the rings time to seat themselves.The slicker synthetic won't let the rings seat as well as regular oil.

 

My understanding is that all new engines are set up on test stands, and run for about 30 min. If this is true, the engine is a long way towards being broken in, if you believe the 20 mile window of oppertunity mentioned in the above quoted article. Any thoughts about this?


BTW, I was always told as a teen (I'm 44 now) to break it in like you are going to drive it.

 

Iwas wondering since most new cars are delivered to you with about 10 miles on them that would mean they are about 1/2 of 80% of being broken in or 40% of the total break-in already done. I never drain oil at 20 mile initial interval. I do drain it initially at 500mi. and again at 1500mi. Then switch to synthetic and 3000mi. drain intervals. I use either Castrol GTX or Pennzoil for my initial 1st 2 refills but Valvoline is excellent too. As a kid we used to say "break in in hard and it'll be fast". I took my new car for about 20 to 30 blasts of cruising at 50mph and hitting it up to 80mph and coasting down to 50 and back to 80 repeatedly for about 30 times. My car ran great, it was faster then my buddies who had the exact same car

 

A useful resource that answered all my questions on when and why to change over to synthetic. I'm going to switch to mobil 1 at 3500 miles

 

sorry the link didn't get added
http://www.motoroilbible.com/

 

It seems that you really can't go wrong either way - by using synthetic right away or conventional oil... I mean we all know how good Corvette, Viper, and Porsche engines run, not to mention the others that are filled with Mobil 1 from the factory.

According to nascar.com, over 70% of the Nextel Cup cars also use Mobil 1, on engines that are essentially new for each race.

If full synthetic is good enough for new engines in Nextel Cup cars, and Viper, Corvette, and Porsche, then it's good enough for me.

Most of the arguments against breaking in new engines with synthetic seem to be based on the "because that's the way it's always been done" theory. Not saying that's wrong, or that engines broken in with conventional oil will be any worse, but on the other hand, there doesn't seem to be any proof that breaking in an engine with Mobil 1 will hurt the engine.

 

Exactly, couldn't have said it better myself.

(btw- I'm the topic starter!)

 

did you change to synthetic in your car? if so at what mileage and what has your experience been.

 

I have always thought this was an engine seal issue, am I wrong about this ?

 

I haven't changed my oil yet. 1200 miles right now. I'm going to do iit at 1500 miles, then at 3000 and every 3000 thereafter. I already have 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and a couple of Motorcraft oil filters in my garage. I figure at 1500 miles, the critical break-in part is over, so no point in not switching to Mobil 1 then.

Funny, there's a current Mustang magazine on the newstands that I was browsing that has a cover story like "Oil myths exposed," or something like that. So I flipped right to that story, and they had quotes from engine builders, engineers, etc., yet they really didn't come to a conclusion on the synthetic versus conventional break-in oil debate! :scratch: They admitted that engineers and tests have shown that engines can safely be broken in with synthetic, yet the authors claimed that 95% of the "folks in the garages" they talked to still believed in breaking in a car with conventional oil.

My only personal experience with synthetic is that I used Mobil 1 in my last two Mustang GTs (but only after each was already broken in). The 87 GT only had 69K miles on it when I sold it, but my 95 GT had 105K miles. The 95 GT still ran like new, and used less than a quart between [3000 mile] changes.

But I think that the fact that Nextel Cup engines (and the more expensive IndyCar engines as well) are using Mobil 1, tell you that it provides all the protection any of us need, and will assure that your engine is running as strong as it can.

All that said, IF I was changing the oil at 20 miles, I'm not sure which oil I'd use... B) I didn't happen to think changing it at 20 miles was really necessary, so it's a moot point for me.

 

I'm switching at 6,000 (when my next change is due)

 

My 89 Mustang GT had 17,000 miles on it when I bought it. I switched to Mobil 1 and ran it to 137,000 with no problems what so ever. I used a half quart per 3-4k miles at 137k the same as 17k. smooth quiet and strong the whole time

 

Back when I had a 92 Vette (LT1, Mobil 1 factory filled), I changed the oil every 3k miles religiously, always with Mobil 1.
Sold it with 97k miles, very minimal oil consumption, zero smoke out the pipes, ran perfect.

Will I be using Mobil 1 in my next Mustang? Most definately!

 

This page lists myths regarding synthetic oil. #1 addresses the seal issue.

http://www.americanmadeoil.com/10mythssynthetics.html

 

This page lists myths regarding synthetic oil. #1 addresses the seal issue.

http://www.americanmadeoil.com/10mythssynthetics.html
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Thanks for the link Mark, I am still leary about using full syn in a new vehicle, personally I will run dino to about 5k then make the switch to mobil1 full syn, I found this to work for me. I have a nissan pu with 220,000 mi still running perfectly this motor has never missed a beat, in addittion my toyota tacoma now has 50k never missed a beat. I will also use the mobil 1 in my new stang after 5k using the dino...to each his own...Thanks again for the link...

 

Thanks for the link Mark, I am still leary about using full syn in a new vehicle, personally I will run dino to about 5k then make the switch to mobil1 full syn, I found this to work for me. I have a nissan pu with 220,000 mi still running perfectly this motor has never missed a beat, in addittion my toyota tacoma now has 50k never missed a beat. I will also use the mobil 1 in my new stang after 5k using the dino...to each his own...Thanks again for the link...
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I started using Mobil 1 at the first oil change @ 1K on my Mazda. I'm now at approx. 22K and no oil leaks or oil loss. I also did the same on the Acura I owned prior to the Mazda and no problems either. My viewpoint on this is subject: as long as you use the correct spec oil for the vehicle and change it at the proper intervals, you can't go wrong. Do whatever works for you. If you feel more comfortable with dino until 5K, do it and be happy.