Hah it is a wonderful sleeper thats a lot of the fun right now, working on some body accents now that my performance is good though =) proof that a project is never done

 

I second that??? You can PM with the #'s if you would prefer. Also, I would like to know as well what all is included as well as the bore? Thanks for the info...

 

Ok the stroker kit itself is over the counter (or ordered from Summit, Jegs, Motorstate, Keystone, etc) but with a few options. Eagle offers a complete balanced rotating assembly. This includes a new crankshaft (required, kit utilizes a smaller head on the rod and journal on the crank to keep clearance issues at a minimum) along with a set of 4340 H-beam rods, Arias pistons, plasma moly rings, and clevite rod bearings. This kit is rated up to 1000hp if i'm not mistaken, and with a bolt upgrade is capable of beyond this.

I'm going to start a new thread because of all this interest and I will list everything I can, feel free to call me out if you see something missing

And I did an .011 overbore, which is 301 1/4, a .020 overbore is the magical 302 c.i.

 

Prepare to get a lot of flack until you post a time slip with ETs or atleast a dyno sheet with HP/TQ numbers from a reputable tuner.

 

I'm in college, next time im home where my dyno sheets are i'll be happy to put them up. And as posted earlier it's never been run on the track. I really could care less about people that don't believe me, he asked a question and I answered it.

 

Since you're in college, I assume you are not a math major... that should be: 0.011 and 0.020 overbore.

And I'm looking forward to seeing your timeslips someday... should be easy 11s, right? Couldn't care less about dyno numbers, though. They are meaningless.

 

hah, Mechanical Engineering as a fact, and it's even worse i've worked for Eagle since I was 12, forgive me. And i'll get ya slips when I get there, I think it will definitely be in the 11's but it's not a drag car, it's a driver, i'm not going to spend a lot of money on radials and what not, just enjoy it. Can't wait to get some actual numbers though. And I agree with dyno's, they are all relative

 

Just to clarify, I didn't say "relative"... I said "meaningless".

 

I'm not trying to pick a fight man, this really has nothing to do with this thread.

 

Well actually it does have to do with this thread, you're posting that you have a NA car making well over 415 rwhp. Not saying it can't be done, but like I said without some sort of proof other than a list of goodies and claiming to work at Eagle since you were 12 (?) you're going to have people doubting the authenticity.

 

It's a family business, and i'm part of the family. And i'll be honest, this is the internet, I understand people not believing me and it really doesn't hurt my feelings. I really don't understand the attacks here guys I was simply posting to let the guy know it's possible.

But I was referring to the fact that that he said dynos are meaningless. I have some videos but they are really crappy, it was the first weekend I got it and i'll be honest I didn't know how to drive it, going to re shoot some this weekend since it's such a big deal obviously.

 

Shoot, any of you have ITunes, get on and find the Horsepower TV episodes "How to stroke a late model Mustang" that's the car, there's the proof if you have to have it now. The dyno numbers when they filmed that were 387rwhp 389rwtq

 

How do you stroke a 4.6 and it still remains a 4.6?

 

You dont, it's 3/4" of an inch short of a 5.0, the kits just called a 4.6 stroker kit. As I was corrected by before, a .020 over bore is a true 302

 

Got ya

 

how much will the stock block actually hold before the pop?

 

No fing way. If you aren’t full of BS then whoever dynoed the car is or the numbers you're using are not corrected. The pistons you're using will give you a MAX CR ratio of 9.9/42cc. To get even close to a legit 400 RWHP you need 11+ CR with a HUGE set of cams among a host of other race only parts.

 

Ive never seen the 3V block break from anything other than something trying to get out of it.

 

I was thinking the same thing, unless they break a rod or throw a piston from my experience they're pretty reliable.

And you don't have to believe me, i'll get my old dyno sheets up when I can and get my new ones up after my next tune

 

I can "tune" a dyno to say whatever I want, show me some 1/4 mph. Im not trying to be a dick but a claim like this you better be ready to back up what ya say.