I recently purchased a set of charge motion plates from brenspeeds ebay site for $12 (SWEET!)

I am going to gut them and make my own delete plates. My question is after you gut the plates they ports will have holes that go between the ports from the rails that went through them. What would the best method of plugging those holes be?

Anybody else done this that can shed some light?

 

You could have them welded up and have the ports enlarged while your at it. I think it would be rather difficult to tap and plug all of them with set screws. I wouldn't trust silicone, epoxy or anthing like that.

 

JB weld?

 

I also looked into these options before I just decided to spend the $150 bucks and get the delete plates. The only way I would even attempt to do it would be weld them up. I would be afraid that any other method might fall out into the intake track. But if you look at the amount of weld required I think they would warp horribly. Than they would need straighten and re-machined. Not worth the trouble IMO. But good luck if you try.
Scott

 

A weld would be the only fullproof idea (that I can think of). Any other type of filler or sealant is questionable, especially when you're putting your motor on the line of failure.

 

What about not filling them at all?

 

I mean not filling the holes except of course for the one on the end...

 

Good question. And I don't know the answer. That would allow all 4 cylinders bleed together. I don't think that would be good. Possibly upsetting the fuel charges.

 

I liked the idea of tapping them out. You could loctite some set screws in there then. Don't know how easy it would be to tap them out

 

I wonder if some very thin aluminum plate and aluminum epoxy would do the trick? All it has to do is block the holes, and not disrupt airflow.

any other ideas?

 

If you really want them I say suck it up and pay the $$. You have $26000 car plus the money you've thrown into it for mods and your willing to risk it just to save $150??

Worst case scenario look in the for sale section. That's where I got mine for $100 shipped.

 

I agree!

 

I thought about this as well. The most viable option I came up with was to press a solid rod through the holes left behind by the removed blade rod then use a dremel or similar to cut the rod away from the openings and off the end. You could then smooth and port match all the openings. Just my .02 I haven't decided if it is worth the hassle or not? If you're like me half of it is just tinkering around and seeing if this is possible or not.

 

Your idea has some merit. If you used the proper Loctite product to secure the rod it might just work. At least it would not warp due to the welding process.
Scott

 

Like you said, there are so many variables to the welding process. It worries me that one could still work loose and fall into the cylinder ruining the motor or at the very least the cylinder head. The rod seems like a good option. I'm still uncertian if there is a risk of thermal cycle shrinkage or expansion that could still cause the rod to work loose. The material choice would have to take this into consideration.

 

Yeah if you could knurl the rod a bit before forcing it in that would be better. And probably use some green loctite. I would think that would stay from now on. However I personally would buy the platesfor $150. But if you wanna save some money (as long as this idea cooperates) I would think it would work.

 

I think the idea could work, but it really is cheaper to just buy the econo deletes. If you are just wanting to tinker around and see what could be done then I say go for it.

 

Ok so I got the plates, and It looks like the rod is actually held in place by rivets. I think I will cuy out the butterfly valves and rods, and leave the leftover rod ends in the holes no harm done!

I will do a taco bill on this as well... yo quiero taco bill?

 

Well I got the butterfly valves and rods out. That took about 40 minutes. interestingly the bearing at the end of the plate dosent seal air tight like I thought it would. It looks like there are spring loaded caps that put a little pressure on the butterfly valve rods for resistance. I am going to tap the end where the bearing is and put a bolt in there. Then I am going to drill and tap the holes where the springs were and put the rods back in. I will use a long set screw to hold them in place and this will work out fine!

I will post pics when complete.

If you don't feel like a little project go buy the frpp deletes....

But if you want to tinker and have a little fun you could convert your original plates very easily or just buy the take offs from brenspeed.

 

Cool, let us know how the rest goes.

I was thinking bubble gum