I installed the frpp hot rod cams on my 07 gt. Now when the idle comes down from over 2000 rpm the idle drops to under 500 then quickly shoots back up to about 1000 and finally settles at 750rpm. I have not had the car retuned yet for the cams so im thinking that may be the problem. But i was just curious if anyone else has had the same problem.

 

I had stalling issues on cold starts after hot rod cam install. I called Bama tunes and they sent me a new tune. Haven't had a problem since.

 

I had the exact same thing, sometimes it would swing so low the car would stall. It went away after a day of driving. The cars cpu needs to learn all the changes.

 

Make sure your Throttle Body it clean too.

 

Throttle body is clean. I was going to drop it off today and have it retuned but it snowed about 4 inches last nite so i wont be bringing it out yet. I havent had it actually stall out on me yet but it does get close to dying when the idle drops out of it. It should stop though when i get it retuned. Atleast thats what the guy tuning said

 

I forgot to mention I had a tune put in it after and it still did it. It took a good day of driving to go away, and when I unplugged the battery for a while to do some other work it came back again and went away again after driving.

 

That makes sense. I know these cars have progressive adapting technology to try to counter any issues that could arise. I know when my car broke down last year ford said it was because of all my mods that i have done that i overwhelmed the computer. Then they stripped my car of all mods and it was still having issues. But during the 19 weeks that they had it i learned alot about the programming of the car.

 

What dealer did you take the car to,that required 19 weeks to find out what was wrong with the car ?? Did they give you a car to drive while they fixed yours.

 

Well what happened was the idle on my car dropped out abd the car kept stalling and random misfiring on the left bank. They told me it was because of my CAI. So i changed that back to stock to shut them up and then they said before they touched it again my car had to be %100 stock. So pulleys and motion deletes and the entire exhaust even the headers and mufflers and the rear end gear had to come out and go back to stock. After 12 weeks of me and them going back and forth they said my cam phasers and valve solenoids were bad. So they replaced those. Then they decided to pull the motor and put all my parts back on.
They started the car up and it was still screwed up. The next week they decided to give me a new motor from the heads down. Problem was still there about a month after the new motor went it they finally figured out that the drivers side head was bad. I ended up missing out on an entire race season and the whole summer was gone.

 

The idle learning process is simple. From a cold start, load your tune - or in this case since you're not running a tune for the cams (which I recommend you do) just unplug the battery overnight - then from a cold start, with either the fresh tune or the battery cable back on after a night without it, let the car start and idle for 8 minutes without touching the throttle at all. Now put the A/C on for 2 minutes, still at idle without touching the throttle at all and without shutting of the car. Now after 10 minutes of idling (8 without AC and 2 with AC), you can drive the car for approximately 10 miles... make sure it's not just highway, but stop signs, traffic slights, etc. You will have completed the idle learning process.

 

Thanx for the info. Car goes in to be retuned tomorrow.

 

Cool. If you still have issues, let me know. Our Hot Rod Cam tunes are really good about driveability, idle quality, etc.

 

Will do. Thanx

 

Had the car tuned today. The wierd idle rpm drop is gone. It dyno'd at 337 rwhp and 338 ft lbs of torque.