Cleveland

Has anybody had any experience with putting on any long tube header pair in their own driveway on stands or is there just not enough room to get those suckers into position? My local tuner is about an hour's drive east of me and I'd rather save on the installation. I'm also hoping that I can get DTP to send me a safe tune for both the long tubes and the charge motion deletes so I can get to the Mustang Dyno for a much needed custom tune. I dont want to throw a code or get a fail safe mode on my way out there.

I already have issues with what I believe is my 4th gear when spraying so I kinda need to jump the gun here and get my short term power mods installed sooner rather than later so I can get the most out of the car for my drag days.

-Dan

stang9325

what's wrong with your 4th gear?

Cleveland

Thats in another thread.... long tube self install? anyone?

-Dan

2k5 pony

I installed my MAC longtubes in my driveway on stands. Wasn't a real "fun" experience, but definetly can be done. Hardest parts of the install: Getting the top third bolt of the starter removed, disconnecting the steering rod(mmff or 5.0 has a easier way to do it now in one of their articles), and finally disconnecting the motor mounts and lifting the engine a few inches...other than that it was a piece of cake Don't forget O2 extensions....

dhof303

My wife and I did it in our driveway in about 5 hours, search my previous threads with Headers or JBA and you will find my comments on the matter, I actually gave the info to JBA about how to more easily place the driver's side header concerning the steering linkage removal, it can be done much easier and in about 3 minutes. PM me if you can't find anything and I will help you, it can be done, it just takes patience. You don't need O2 simulators if you have an X-cal or Predator because they can just turn that sensor off.

169stang

I'll have a set of Steeda motor mounts for sale (reasonable) come Tuesday!

lt1977

I did it in my garage on jackstands by myself in about 8 hours. I have no mechanical experience whatsoever and I will never do it again.

Firedude

I sent you a e-mail. I am interested.

GarageLogic

And friend and i did my longtubes on jackstands in about 4 hours. I did not need to remove the starter to install them, so I didn't have the 3-bolt issue some have experienced. I had no clearance issues with the factory motor mounts, but we did remove them to give some extra room during the installation.

Cleveland

Ok, after installing the headers who did you folks use to install a canned tune for the vehicle so it wouldnt throw a code?

Im going the Cat delete route with the factory H and SLP Loudmouths. I would also have to have my mid pipe modified so it can slip over the Header collector.

-Dan

MyFastGT

169stang

I took off that freakin starter when I pulled the tranny. It is a pita to remove, but can be done with a bit of patience.
I went back to make sure all the header bolts are tight and it is pretty tight spot! It obviously can be done! I was going to do mine myself, but ended up having it done while they waited on the clutch to arrive.

Cleveland

Im also wondering if anyone can state their opinion of the quality of the Hooker Super Comps compared to the JBA Long Tubes?

I was more interested to know if the Super Comps are nicely finished after they are welded. Smoothness is definitely important for superior flow characteristics.

Also, I know the Hookers can connect directly to the stock H-pipe but can this also be done for the JBA tubes?

-Dan

dhof303

I have the "cheap" JBA long tubes, the stainless ones that are better than any header I have ever installed or used. As for your issue with a canned tune you can use it but you should have your tuner send you an .xtr file to load into the program to turn off the rear O2 sensors, if you don't want to do this then get a set of those O2 simulators that are about $50.00 and chance it. If anyone is claiming that their header will hook directly to the factory H-pipe they are not full length headers, they will either be shorty or mid length headers, some companies report that their headers will hook directly to the factory pipes but this is with extensions or a piece together h-pipe without cats. It all depends on where you want your car to go, in your instance you will benefit most from the long tubes because you are running NO2.

Cleveland

Thanks for the opinion but the Hookers collectors of the headers are nothing more than a slip pipe, there are no 3 bolt rings to connect to the rest of the system. They are a full length header and they can connect directly to the stock H-pipe when you cut -off the cats. It seems like the same thing can be done for the other headers as well, be it expanding the mid pipe end and slipping over or by welding a seem.

-Dan

Cleveland

Please post those results, Im very interested to finally see how much power the Hookers can provide throughout the rpm range.

-Dan

Cleveland

Anybody else have opinions on the quality of the headers?

-Dan

RandyB

Have you already purchased the Hooker headers? Generally, Hooker quality is pretty decent (Historically - I haven't seen the ones for the '05). Good luck on the self install - I will be doing the same. A lift would be nice...

I have my eyes on the JDM/Kooks headers, but they are a little expensive. I'm going to wait around for a few other folks to install them and see how they fit before I buy.

Cleveland

Im waiting around for some results before I finally buy. I'll have something within the month though.

-Dan