The latest fun
10/17/05, 06:38 PM
#1
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Saturday a.m., I began dissassembly of the motor. I pulled the intake, battery, PS pump, A/C comp and the engine harness. Sunday, I pulled the tranny, headers and the actual motor. A LOT to do! The biggest PITA was the tranny and finding locations that I felt comfy with for hooking up chains to the motor. A few pics will show what's going on. I went to my motor builder today (Al Pappito-Boss330) and learned a ton of info. You can find Al in the MMFF Nov.05 issue pg. 56. The top 3 cars/motors in that shootout were built by him. Great guy. Taught me a lot today. You can see some pics about different components in the motor with some downfalls to them.
[attachmentid=36428]
[attachmentid=36428]
10/17/05, 06:40 PM
#2
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car without the engine
[attachmentid=36429]
[attachmentid=36429]
10/17/05, 06:42 PM
#3
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the bellhousing with some broken pieces
[attachmentid=36431]
[attachmentid=36431]
10/17/05, 06:45 PM
#4
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a crack in the rear of the block
[attachmentid=36432]
[attachmentid=36432]
10/17/05, 06:52 PM
#5
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Ok,So what did all this damage?Not enogh play in the driveshaft?Using solid motor mounts with a soft transmission mount? I hope your not going to say from the power it made.Ime not nocking you but you should not have this kind of damage for no reason.
10/17/05, 06:55 PM
#7
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[attachmentid=36436][attachmentid=36434][attachmentid=36435]
10/17/05, 06:58 PM
#8
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The carrier bearing in the center of the 2 piece is mounted to the body. I think it was due to lack of swaybars and the way my car twisted up at launch (on 28" et drags), pulled that carrier bearing off the body and was slamming the crossmember below. If you notice the driveshaft having a pretty good angle on it...when it was straight, it was longer...thus shoving everything forward. That's why it cracked around the dog ears and the bellhousing.
I know it's not due to having "all the power". I think it's due to having no support, leaving at 6400 rpm's and putting every bit of power on the pavement. My right tire was planted and being in the right lane, drove me into the center of the track.
No carnage competition here!
I know it's not due to having "all the power". I think it's due to having no support, leaving at 6400 rpm's and putting every bit of power on the pavement. My right tire was planted and being in the right lane, drove me into the center of the track.
No carnage competition here!
10/17/05, 07:03 PM
#11
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I'll let you know what I'm doing afterwards. 
10/17/05, 07:06 PM
#12
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Originally posted by 169stang@October 17, 2005, 7:01 PM
The carrier bearing in the center of the 2 piece is mounted to the body. I think it was due to lack of swaybars and the way my car twisted up at launch (on 28" et drags), pulled that carrier bearing off the body and was slamming the crossmember below. If you notice the driveshaft having a pretty good angle on it...when it was straight, it was longer...thus shoving everything forward. That's why it cracked around the dog ears and the bellhousing.
I know it's not due to having "all the power". I think it's due to having no support, leaving at 6400 rpm's and putting every bit of power on the pavement. My right tire was planted and being in the right lane, drove me into the center of the track.
No carnage competition here!
The carrier bearing in the center of the 2 piece is mounted to the body. I think it was due to lack of swaybars and the way my car twisted up at launch (on 28" et drags), pulled that carrier bearing off the body and was slamming the crossmember below. If you notice the driveshaft having a pretty good angle on it...when it was straight, it was longer...thus shoving everything forward. That's why it cracked around the dog ears and the bellhousing.
I know it's not due to having "all the power". I think it's due to having no support, leaving at 6400 rpm's and putting every bit of power on the pavement. My right tire was planted and being in the right lane, drove me into the center of the track.
No carnage competition here!
10/17/05, 07:06 PM
#13
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VCT
[attachmentid=36443]
shortblock
[attachmentid=36442]
heads w/cam
[attachmentid=36441]
cylinder's
[attachmentid=36440]
stock piston
[attachmentid=36438]
[attachmentid=36443]
shortblock
[attachmentid=36442]
heads w/cam
[attachmentid=36441]
cylinder's
[attachmentid=36440]
stock piston
[attachmentid=36438]
10/17/05, 07:07 PM
#14
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darn.(filter) I wonder if an iron block would have held up better. Im not sure an aluminum block is up to that kind of pounding....
I noticed you were running a Carbon Fiber drive shaft. BMR? and how did it hold up....
I noticed you were running a Carbon Fiber drive shaft. BMR? and how did it hold up....
10/17/05, 07:16 PM
#16
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Originally posted by 169stang@October 17, 2005, 7:06 PM
I'll let you know what I'm doing afterwards.
I'll let you know what I'm doing afterwards.
thats the logical thing to do once the stocker is out
10/17/05, 07:20 PM
#18
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The carbon fiber was what I went too when the stock one broke. I'm going to a Windsor iron block. It's only 80lbs heavier. I've already lost that much weight in the front between the tires, k-member, radiator support.
10/17/05, 07:30 PM
#19
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[attachmentid=36449][attachmentid=36448][attachmentid=36446][attachmentid=36447]
What I learned today.
1. the stock piston is very shallow at the ring as you can see in the pic above. The CP piston I'm going too is about .277 vs .098 in the stocker.
2. Never stroke a motor-my opinion...the piston drops so far in the cylinder, it scuffs bad trying to line itself up to get back into the cylinder. I saw a custom set of cp pistion's ate up with the scuffing.
3. The stock rods are injected molded, scored and snapped off to seperate the top portion.
4. If you burn off the tip of your spark plug, you should have a leak down and compression check. Very good chances that the little piece that broke off will work it's way into the exhaust valve or burn a trail and grenade the motor. Not immediately, but eventually.
What I learned today.
1. the stock piston is very shallow at the ring as you can see in the pic above. The CP piston I'm going too is about .277 vs .098 in the stocker.
2. Never stroke a motor-my opinion...the piston drops so far in the cylinder, it scuffs bad trying to line itself up to get back into the cylinder. I saw a custom set of cp pistion's ate up with the scuffing.
3. The stock rods are injected molded, scored and snapped off to seperate the top portion.
4. If you burn off the tip of your spark plug, you should have a leak down and compression check. Very good chances that the little piece that broke off will work it's way into the exhaust valve or burn a trail and grenade the motor. Not immediately, but eventually.
10/17/05, 07:39 PM
#20
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Sorry for all the freakin posts. Just sharing pics of what's going on! The shortblock should be ready in about a week or 2.