Wow,
What a difference.

Next up, fronts in a bit.
My rears were shot late last year, so I bought the STR.Ts but never had the time before storing the car to put them on.

Over the Easter weekend took the challenge.
They were pretty easy to do, and I'm not the most mechanically inclined.
Found it easier to remove the rear sway bar from the top rather than the ends as others have suggested.

Now I have a question though, the top bolt of the shock when installed is supposed to be torqued to 30ft-lbs.
The threaded part of the shock just kept spinning once it bottomed out.
Any way to actually torque the sucker down to 30ft-lbs properly?

 

Just installed the D-specs on the rear of my car today & just took a guess as to how tight 30 Ft/lbs was ??? Lower bolts to 85lbs...
Why did you have to drop the swaybar ???

 

+1?

I installed my Koni's a couple weekends ago...I just guessed on mine too and didn't drop the swaybar...fronts were much easier than I expected, and swapped out the mounts for the GT500's, no more front end clunk...

 

Doin the Fts today , I also got the GT500 mounts as well as the FRPP Bump stops??
Next Purchace is Swaybars . "A Piece at a time", Old JC sang . RIP

Lil off topic, But I finally took out a 2011 Gt (RagTop) for a test drive the other day.
Coyotey is sweet but I will just keep the 09 & throw $$ at it .
Its my Therapy

 

I took the torque wrench to the top bolt and it wouldn't even hit 30ft-lbs, just kept spinning.
Lower bolt was tightned to 85.

Dropped the stabalizer bar to get easy access to the bottom bolt holding in the shock. Just easier than trying to mess around it.

(Crappy BlackBerry pics)

 

To torque the top you'll need a wrench to hold the flats on the top of the shock rod, and an appropriately sized crow's foot for your torque wrench. Put the crow's foot on perpendicular to the torque arm, and tighten.