Kenne Bell 2.4L Supercharger Installed
1/29/06, 10:30 PM
#21
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Nice to see that you got it installed and so far so good with not pushing the envelope in the power department.
You may want to pull the entire fuel rail and inspect that no O-rings were left in the fuel rail when moving over to the new injectors. Just reseating it may fix the issue, I couldnt think of anything else causing it.
-Dan
You may want to pull the entire fuel rail and inspect that no O-rings were left in the fuel rail when moving over to the new injectors. Just reseating it may fix the issue, I couldnt think of anything else causing it.
-Dan
1/29/06, 10:40 PM
#22
Thread Starter
I'm going to pull it again tomorrow night, and I'll double check. But, it is so strange that it's not just one that is leaking... it can be 2, 3 or all 4. Or, sometimes its just 1... it's not consistent at all. My brain hurts...
1/29/06, 10:48 PM
#23
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Just think of it this way, the passenger side is the secondary rail in the fuel system, its not getting any more pressure than the driverside so you can probably agree that that isnt the issue.
Just pull the rail with the injectors and install each injector one by one into their bosses in the intake head. Inspect the fuel rail for any debris or O-rings left from the original set and make sure to firmly press the rail back into place on the injectors. Secure that rail at its 2 mounting points on the plenum and use your eye to make sure that everything looks "flat" compared to the driverside. There really isnt another possible cause to this issue, you will soon iron it out.
-Dan
Just pull the rail with the injectors and install each injector one by one into their bosses in the intake head. Inspect the fuel rail for any debris or O-rings left from the original set and make sure to firmly press the rail back into place on the injectors. Secure that rail at its 2 mounting points on the plenum and use your eye to make sure that everything looks "flat" compared to the driverside. There really isnt another possible cause to this issue, you will soon iron it out.
-Dan
1/29/06, 10:58 PM
#24
Thread Starter
I wonder if the BAP is doing something funny??? 
1/29/06, 11:01 PM
#25
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Congrats Don. I know you musta been dead dog tired. The install pics are great and I must admit looking down thru the vacant shaker hole in the hood at that blower put a big smile on my face. Hope you get the leak problems fixed quickly and I hope you get the shaker adapted soon too.
1/29/06, 11:01 PM
#26
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Originally posted by don_w@January 29, 2006, 10:01 PM
I wonder if the BAP is doing something funny???
I wonder if the BAP is doing something funny???
BTW, if you cant get the shaker back in there you could always consider puting a polycarbonate plate so its a preview window, you could also do some great airbrushing for that.
-Dan
1/29/06, 11:09 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Cleveland@January 29, 2006, 10:04 PM
doubtful or you would see the issue on the other bank... see?
BTW, if you cant get the shaker back in there you could always consider puting a polycarbonate plate so its a preview window, you could also do some great airbrushing for that.
-Dan
doubtful or you would see the issue on the other bank... see?
BTW, if you cant get the shaker back in there you could always consider puting a polycarbonate plate so its a preview window, you could also do some great airbrushing for that.
-Dan
I didn't hook up the fuel lines, and they are hidden behind the blower now. I need to look at the manual tomorrow and see what the hook-up looks like to see if the passenger side is still the secondary. And I will inspect the fuel rails again for debris. I gotta fix it ASAP... not driving it is killing me. hahah
1/29/06, 11:16 PM
#28
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If you look at your 16th picture its clear that the passengerside is still the secondary by way of the crossover hose, plus since you are using the stock rails, the driverside has to be the main feed.
You may also want to use steel washers on those fuel rail mounts (just under the screws/bolts), that may help evenly distribute hold down force across the rail's top since the mounts are different.
-Dan
You may also want to use steel washers on those fuel rail mounts (just under the screws/bolts), that may help evenly distribute hold down force across the rail's top since the mounts are different.
-Dan
1/29/06, 11:23 PM
#29
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Cleveland@January 29, 2006, 10:19 PM
If you look at your 16th picture its clear that the passengerside is still the secondary by way of the crossover hose, plus since you are using the stock rails, the driverside has to be the main feed.
If you look at your 16th picture its clear that the passengerside is still the secondary by way of the crossover hose, plus since you are using the stock rails, the driverside has to be the main feed.
I told you I was dog tired. I'm should go to bed now... :sleep:
1/30/06, 12:52 AM
#30
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Congrats Don, 
Hope you figure out the fuel leak soon. I can't wait to see the Videos. :worship: :worship: :worship:
Hope you figure out the fuel leak soon. I can't wait to see the Videos. :worship: :worship: :worship:
1/30/06, 06:12 AM
#31
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Congrats Don,
How is the shifting Pattern after the install?
I am curious as mine is hopfully going to get tuned on Wednesday...
On your fuel problem, you may want to check and see if any of the o-rings got nicked. Sometimes there is a little burr in the ring seat in the fuel rail.
I would also check the rail pressure. The BAP could be spiking and causing a leak at the weakest point...
P.S. I would not got too much ( if any ) higher with the timming. Those cylinder pressures get high quickly in the upper RPM ranges with a twin screw...
How is the shifting Pattern after the install?
I am curious as mine is hopfully going to get tuned on Wednesday...
On your fuel problem, you may want to check and see if any of the o-rings got nicked. Sometimes there is a little burr in the ring seat in the fuel rail.
I would also check the rail pressure. The BAP could be spiking and causing a leak at the weakest point...
P.S. I would not got too much ( if any ) higher with the timming. Those cylinder pressures get high quickly in the upper RPM ranges with a twin screw...
1/30/06, 09:34 AM
#34
Thread Starter
Thanks, all.
Jeff, the shift pattern feels pretty good for an initial base tune, but there is a little room for improvement. After I get a chance to put a few more miles on it, we'll be able to fine tune it.
Jeff, the shift pattern feels pretty good for an initial base tune, but there is a little room for improvement. After I get a chance to put a few more miles on it, we'll be able to fine tune it.
1/30/06, 02:10 PM
#38
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
Good luck with that, sounds like a lot of fun!
I just happened to catch Two Guys Garage this weekend, and they had one in their shop with bigger injectors (60# I think?) a smaller pulley, and a boost-a-pump (I'm sure there were a couple other things too) and they got a rwhp of 501.75 with someone from SCT doign the tuning for them. That''s freakin' awesome! Just wish I could afford to add a blower to mine.
I just happened to catch Two Guys Garage this weekend, and they had one in their shop with bigger injectors (60# I think?) a smaller pulley, and a boost-a-pump (I'm sure there were a couple other things too) and they got a rwhp of 501.75 with someone from SCT doign the tuning for them. That''s freakin' awesome! Just wish I could afford to add a blower to mine.
