Just ordered suspension!
#1
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Just ordered suspension!
List includes:
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
#2
Legacy TMS Member
Sweet, if you dont mind me asking, with the LCA brackets, do they have any reccomendations for settings when the car is lowered? I'm thinking about getting them to correct the altered rear geometry after my own FRPP FR3 suspension install (easily an inch lower than stock), my gut feeling is that there is some change, but is there enough to warrant installing the brackets and if I do, will the brackets fix the geometry?
#3
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Sweet, if you dont mind me asking, with the LCA brackets, do they have any reccomendations for settings when the car is lowered? I'm thinking about getting them to correct the altered rear geometry after my own FRPP FR3 suspension install (easily an inch lower than stock), my gut feeling is that there is some change, but is there enough to warrant installing the brackets and if I do, will the brackets fix the geometry?
However, if you do plan to race/launch it, you should look into these.
I got the brackets because my springs lower the car 1.25" in the front, and 1.75" in the rear. I'm sure this height will alter geometry enough.
#4
If you lower your car, you need to get a set of LCA relocation brackets. I have the early weld-ins from BMR, the newer BMR brackets are bolt-in, but can be welded for additional strength. They are also a little different in design then the ones I have.
Unless you are a drag racer, LCA's should be as close to parallel to the road surface as possible. Adding lowering springs without correcting the rear LCA attachment point will cause the rear of the LCA to be located higher than it was originally and you don't want that.
You should definately get the brackets for the FRPP Stg 3 kit.
Bobby M.
Unless you are a drag racer, LCA's should be as close to parallel to the road surface as possible. Adding lowering springs without correcting the rear LCA attachment point will cause the rear of the LCA to be located higher than it was originally and you don't want that.
You should definately get the brackets for the FRPP Stg 3 kit.
Bobby M.
#5
The LCA relocation brackets will fix your rear geometry of the lower control arms. You want to set the LCA's parallel to the ground for neutral handling.(stock set-up is parallel to ground) or even a tad lower at the rear point for better hook-up.
#6
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List includes:
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
#7
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Will I be fine for now? I go back to school on the 31st so I won't be driving it at all until the next break. I just happened to use all my allowance money
#8
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That will most likely be the second hole from the top with the BMRs. You should also get the pinion angle adjusted as well.
#10
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1.25 drop in front isnt to drastic I've ran 3 different spring set ups on my Stang, Roush, Groundforce and currently Saleen What I've found thru actual experience not just reading others posts is anything more than a 1" drop in front can experience tracking drift on bumpy road surfaces when fast hard cornering or fast breaking is applied.....So just keep that in mind! and the next time you get a spare 100.00 bucks or so get a Bumpsteer kit very easy to install!...........
#11
Legacy TMS Member
Ultimately I plan to get the LCA brackets along with the X5 Ball joints and a bumpsteer kit, I have an adjustable panhard rod and UCA already.
On another note, it'd be nice if there was a fix for the panhard rod, even with an adjustable panhard rod (like the LCAs when they are parallel), the panhard rod works best when it is parallel to the axle.
Another item on the wishlist would be some nice 4 piston front / 2 piston rear calipers that would bolt in and work with a set of factory Bullitt wheels (and by extension, properly sized for the ABS). One of the features of the previous generation that I liked were the PBR calipers, the current TRW units look like the handy work of a mentally challenged kindegarten art student ( they work well enough, but its like having a girlfriend with six toes on the beach, your always walking behind her sweeping the sand to cover up the funny footprints).
And I also meant calipers that work without having to use a wheel spacer which introduces a new set of problems with the suspension.
On another note, it'd be nice if there was a fix for the panhard rod, even with an adjustable panhard rod (like the LCAs when they are parallel), the panhard rod works best when it is parallel to the axle.
Another item on the wishlist would be some nice 4 piston front / 2 piston rear calipers that would bolt in and work with a set of factory Bullitt wheels (and by extension, properly sized for the ABS). One of the features of the previous generation that I liked were the PBR calipers, the current TRW units look like the handy work of a mentally challenged kindegarten art student ( they work well enough, but its like having a girlfriend with six toes on the beach, your always walking behind her sweeping the sand to cover up the funny footprints).
And I also meant calipers that work without having to use a wheel spacer which introduces a new set of problems with the suspension.
#12
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1.25 drop in front isnt to drastic I've ran 3 different spring set ups on my Stang, Roush, Groundforce and currently Saleen What I've found thru actual experience not just reading others posts is anything more than a 1" drop in front can experience tracking drift on bumpy road surfaces when fast hard cornering or fast breaking is applied.....So just keep that in mind! and the next time you get a spare 100.00 bucks or so get a Bumpsteer kit very easy to install!...........
#13
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IMO I think you will get more cluck for your buck doing the X5 lower ball joint set up after you lower. This will raise the front roll center back up (reduce the front moment roll couple), reduce push (understeer) and give you better camber correction geometry ... all in one modification. Then I would worry about bump steer correction. Some twitchyness (jumping left or right) is more likely attributed to insufficient toe in, than bump steer.
#14
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IMO I think you will get more cluck for your buck doing the X5 lower ball joint set up after you lower. This will raise the front roll center back up (reduce the front moment roll couple), reduce push (understeer) and give you better camber correction geometry ... all in one modification. Then I would worry about bump steer correction. Some twitchyness (jumping left or right) is more likely attributed to insufficient toe in, than bump steer.
Steeda's X5 balljoints are designed to raise the roll center of your 2005-07 Mustang which becomes lower as a result of lowering with lowering springs.
Raising the roll center eliminates the issues associated with the lower roll center, making for a great improvement in handling by reducing body roll and improving the front tire contact patch without increasing spring rate or roll bar rate.
Steeda balljoints are made in the USA by a respected name-brand supplier to Ford, GM and Daimler Chrysler. Except for their custom length, they are the same materials and construction that has been extensively tested in Panther applications, that is, police cars and other severe duty applications, where they have demonstrated durability that exceeds current production "regular" balljoints. They meet Ford's standards for friction, wear, and durability.
Steeda's X5 ball joints change the bump steer geometry. Steeda highly recommends a bump steer kit be used in conjunction with the X5 balljoints
#15
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List includes:
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
1. BMR Lowering Springs -http://www.lmperformance.com/6816/73.html
2. BMR Adj. LCA -http://www.lmperformance.com/5364/73.html
3. BMR LCA Brackets -http://www.lmperformance.com/5502/.html
4. Spohn Adj. Panhard Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/5285/.html
5. BMR Rear Sway Bar - http://www.lmperformance.com/7783/73.html
Hopefully it gets here soon. All free shipping from LMPerformance. Lets just hope I don't get what I pay for
Also, from personal experience, the car handles great with just springs, LCAs (to adjust pinion angle on rear shaft), Panhard to center rear axle, and an alignment. I'm only talking about street use. I'm sure more is necessary for a good track car (i.e. Steeda Q), but just the simple things make a huge difference on the street.
#16
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Am I missing something? I don't see Front Sway Bar? If you stiffen up the rear and not the front, won't that make the back slide out more?
Also, from personal experience, the car handles great with just springs, LCAs (to adjust pinion angle on rear shaft), Panhard to center rear axle, and an alignment. I'm only talking about street use. I'm sure more is necessary for a good track car (i.e. Steeda Q), but just the simple things make a huge difference on the street.
Also, from personal experience, the car handles great with just springs, LCAs (to adjust pinion angle on rear shaft), Panhard to center rear axle, and an alignment. I'm only talking about street use. I'm sure more is necessary for a good track car (i.e. Steeda Q), but just the simple things make a huge difference on the street.
I had a pretty in depth discussion with a suspension guru.
#17
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1.25 drop in front isnt to drastic I've ran 3 different spring set ups on my Stang, Roush, Groundforce and currently Saleen What I've found thru actual experience not just reading others posts is anything more than a 1" drop in front can experience tracking drift on bumpy road surfaces when fast hard cornering or fast breaking is applied.....So just keep that in mind! and the next time you get a spare 100.00 bucks or so get a Bumpsteer kit very easy to install!...........
#18
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Jason, when I installed the Steeda Bump Steer kit happen coincide with my last spring and damper change I set the Bump Steer by eye well enough to get it to the Alignment shop to dial everything in They tested the Bump Steer as Steeda suggests, said it was on the money. I ran lowering springs without the kit and there is a difference! The adjustable tie rod ends are far more responsive than the Factory ones. I've seen these kits for a 100.00 bucks basically the price of two tanks of gas.This mod is well worth the price........
#20
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Thats what everyone should do ! I've been working on my suspension for a year! Take your time, do the research, set the car up the way you! want it to handle that's really the fun part.....