got them from username subzero05 (great doing business with him, excellent seller and fast shipping).

installed them in 2hrs in my driveway.
rented a harmonic balancer puller, which was useless, so we slowly pulled it off with a prybar and by hand. install was simple really, and only confusing part was putting the belt back on cuz ford doesn have a belt map in the manual...found it in a pic online. after driving for 15min CEL came on...checked it with my predator...was a "random misfire cylinder 3", driven 50miles tonight since and hasn come back on.

car pulls like CRAZY compared to a few hours ago. made a huge diff IMO, about as much as the tune with the pred did, and bout half as much diff as 4.10s (according to seat of the pants-ometer).

worthwhile upgrade IMO. goin to track in couple wks after intake and dyno tune

 

followup. cruised all night, CEL came on 4 more times, as did some nasty sounds when it was runnin on 6cyl for a few sec. takin it into dealership monday to get it checked out.

everything installed per instructions by my buddy who works at a high end shop. donnon how the pullies would cause misfires, but ill get it checked out. any suggestions as to what is wrong?

ps: im at 120mph before i can blink, feels incredible the diff it made...and how freely it revs.

 

Try reinstalling and retorquing to specs. A few others have had an issue with improper torque--there is a sensor that seems to be *very* sensitive to even the slightest amount of wobble, causing the "cylinder misfire" code. The use of a torque wrench seems to be critical.

 

is there anywhere that lists what torque the crank bolt should be torqued to? cuz steedas instructions are like "torque to 67lb-ft, loosed half turn, torque to 37lb-ft, tighted an addition 90 degrees" which seems somewhat vague and opens the door for improper torquing. just wondering...and thanks for the input.

 

To the contrary - that method (called torque turn) is more accurate! The torque turn method measures how much the bolt is stretched which is really what is desired. Friction from the bolt head and washer is not a factor which leads to inaccurate torque of a fastener.

The first step seats the balancer
The second step releaves all stress on the bolt
The third step pre-torques the bolt before bolt to washer friction becomes an issue
The fourth step stretches the bolt to the proper tension

I would also recommend using a small quantity of lubricant (preferrably molykote paste) on the threads of the bolt and underside of the bolt head to washer contact patch to reduce friction. Do not over lubricate as this will cause the sealant not to adhere to the keyway slot and cause a path for leakage.

 

darn fine info, tm! Im gonna get mine put in next Friday and will stress they follow Steedas directions to the letter!

 

it seems i have fixed the problem, at least until i take it in. i reinstalled the stock tune on the car, then drove bout 15min. no CEL. then i installed the 91oct tune and drove it hard for 30min. no CEL. i think the fact i had the timing slightly advanced and it slightly leaned out might of caused a problem when the new pullies were installed...?

 

sounds like you got it worked out STKDIDY~..Glad you like them and thanks for the plug =)