JBA LT install recommendations
JBA LT install recommendations
A friend of mine got some JBA LTs and catted H for Xmas and he's wondering how much to install these? He's gotten a quote for $600 (no tuning) which definately seems a little high to me.
I remember on the 99-04 cars you had to lift or tilt the engine to install LTs, is it the same on S197s?
Ohh, this is in OC SoCal.
Thanks
Question is, if anybody knows of any good shops in SoCal that can install these, and how much should he be expecting.
I remember on the 99-04 cars you had to lift or tilt the engine to install LTs, is it the same on S197s?
Ohh, this is in OC SoCal.
Thanks
Question is, if anybody knows of any good shops in SoCal that can install these, and how much should he be expecting.
When I installed my JBA's I printed off Lowe's ARH install, it is similar to a tacobill-like write-up. It was probably better than the instructions that came with the headers. Here is a link. Good Luck! http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...urnal+american
I just finished a set of shorties myself, so I can give you some advice, but a good number of things will be different.
1. The following tools are all but manditory IMO:
5, 8, 10, 13, 15 mm sockets, both normal and deep as well as extentions (enough to reach maybe 9" or so)
One of those universal joint type bends for a ratchet
the same sizes in wrenches, preferably the type that the box end ratchets
jack stands
Floor Jack
2. You will be removing the steering arm, both motor mounts, and the starter. The starter is 3 bolts, and there was no need for me to disconnect the wiring. It was far enough out of the way just unbolted. The steering arm is two bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. When you remove the steering arm, make sure you do not move the steering wheel. You'll have a fun time getting the steering reset properly again if ya do
3. In your case, I would unbolt the manifolds from the heads, unbolt the mid-pipe ffrom the rear of the exhaust, and drop the manifolds and mid-pipe as one piece. You will need to have the motor mounts off of both side to do it this way. The motor mounts are nothing to remove.. one nut from the chasis, and 4 bolts from the block.
4. Take your time... It's not a hard job, but it is involved and time consuming. Make sure that you have some help doing this. 2 people is ideal, even if one of them is nothing more than a "go-fer" or to hold a part in place while you start a nut.
5. Expect to spend all day on the project. Like I said, its not a hard job, but it does take some time.
6. Get the tune updated ASAP after the install as you can. If your using mail order, I would have it there and waiting. The O2 switching speeds will be off bogtime, and the rear o2s will need to be turned off most likely.
1. The following tools are all but manditory IMO:
5, 8, 10, 13, 15 mm sockets, both normal and deep as well as extentions (enough to reach maybe 9" or so)
One of those universal joint type bends for a ratchet
the same sizes in wrenches, preferably the type that the box end ratchets
jack stands
Floor Jack
2. You will be removing the steering arm, both motor mounts, and the starter. The starter is 3 bolts, and there was no need for me to disconnect the wiring. It was far enough out of the way just unbolted. The steering arm is two bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. When you remove the steering arm, make sure you do not move the steering wheel. You'll have a fun time getting the steering reset properly again if ya do

3. In your case, I would unbolt the manifolds from the heads, unbolt the mid-pipe ffrom the rear of the exhaust, and drop the manifolds and mid-pipe as one piece. You will need to have the motor mounts off of both side to do it this way. The motor mounts are nothing to remove.. one nut from the chasis, and 4 bolts from the block.
4. Take your time... It's not a hard job, but it is involved and time consuming. Make sure that you have some help doing this. 2 people is ideal, even if one of them is nothing more than a "go-fer" or to hold a part in place while you start a nut.
5. Expect to spend all day on the project. Like I said, its not a hard job, but it does take some time.
6. Get the tune updated ASAP after the install as you can. If your using mail order, I would have it there and waiting. The O2 switching speeds will be off bogtime, and the rear o2s will need to be turned off most likely.
You can do the install at home with the tools and directions listed in this thread- I've basically done mine twice (one header install, and then later a motor mount install) and the advice mentioned here is right.
If you can find a shop you trust for under $60 an hour... good luck
i got quoted $1100.00 by a local speedshop. i was wondering what they were smoking. i just did it myself. don't follow the jba l/t instructions when it says to moved the whole steering rack!!! its much easier to listen to officespace56's write-up and remove the steering shaft!!. its a very helpful write-up!! get ready for a really loud rumble!!
$90 an hour for shop rate!?! Wow... I never realized.
I do just about everything that isn't warrenty myself, and what I do hafta pay for, I go to a guy that my family has been using for about 30 years.. We've been with him so long and sent him so much business from others that he only charges me however much the mechanic he puts on it makes, plus cost on any shop supplies and parts... I never realized exactly how much of a hook up he gives us.
All of a sudden, $600 sounds pretty reasonable...
I do just about everything that isn't warrenty myself, and what I do hafta pay for, I go to a guy that my family has been using for about 30 years.. We've been with him so long and sent him so much business from others that he only charges me however much the mechanic he puts on it makes, plus cost on any shop supplies and parts... I never realized exactly how much of a hook up he gives us.
All of a sudden, $600 sounds pretty reasonable...
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