I just installed the J&M camber plates with FRPP K 1.5 lowering spring and this is my question.

How do I know how to set camber on these? How much is right?

 

I have those. There's two different 'modes'. One where you can get 2.5 or more degrees (negative camber), for track days or quickly wearing out your tires (if that's your thing). This is basically the same as 'stock' when lowered. Lowering naturally increases negative camber, the plates are there to get rid of excess camber. So the other setting (180 degree rotation from the first) is getting you 0 to maybe 1.5 degrees negative camber, thus bringing you back to stock settings and reducing inner shoulder tire wear.

You can easily see which is which when you put them on top of the strut package, one way it's heavily tilted, the other more perpendicular to the vertical axis of the strut.

Hope that helps. Alignment shop should get you to where you want to be easily, or you can eyeball on the strut tower (when installed, these allow lateral movement at the top of the strut housing, so some variability even without rotating the thing 180 degrees).

 

I got those as well. Running max (top pushed all the way towards the motor)camber (and also adjusted caster to max possible on the Whiteline "anti dive" bushings I have) car turns much better for Auto-X. I keep it maxed out for the street as well but am showing some tire wear on the inside. Follow the instructions for either racing or street use depending on what you do. You can always switch before and after racing, it's very easy to do.....

 

I also have the J&M Plates...I just eyeball it

For track days, I dump them full inboard, for street use I think I set them 12-15mm from the OD of the thread to the ID of the strut hole nearest the outside of the car.

 

Ooohhhh, I've been wondering about those Whitelines. Saw the magazine article a few years back, never heard anything since.

These, right?:

http://neverenoughauto.com/index.php...oduct_id=66104

http://50mustangsuperfords.automotiv...des/index.html



What can you tell me about them? Specifically the install; I'm thinking of doing the bumpsteer kit, the ball joints, and maybe the new bushings all at once since you have to remove the control arm.

Oh and where did you get them from??

 

Chances are you don't need bushings, you need more seat time.

 

Tillman got them for me and installed them. They came directly from Whiteline I think. They are a big difference over stock when it comes to nose diving and such. They are a bear to install simply because you have to get the bushing off the A arm and unless you have a press and a torch at the house I would have a shop install them. I do highly recommend them!

 

Thanks 4 the feedback yall!

 

Wouldn't the Steeda front control arm bushing kit do the same thing?

 

There was a thread on another forum exactly about that. Everyone there said the Whiteline needs to come down in price to be competitive as the anti-dive design was minimal compared to the Steeda ones:

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-f...d-mustang.html



But that was when Whiteline wanted $325+ for them.

Now:
$227 for Steeda.

$288 for Whiteline.

 

Those Steeda ones look like a vibration nightmare. What about these? http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-f...d-mustang.html

 

This bushing replacement goes on the other A arm to frame connection point the rear one the smaller bushings above go on the front one. I would think you'd want both. The rear one is stiffer on the GT500 so i have been told and that seems like a good compromise for the street.

 

And you can get the GT500 A-arms as one piece replacements for that too:

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...p/m-3075-e.htm

 

They both are for the rear attachment point of the a-arm. One replaces it and the other just fits in the back of the stock rubber bushing.

 

I got mine as part of the SC install when Tillman did my TECHCO blower so it did not cost me any extra $$.
Looking at the Steeda ones, and I don't want to knock Steeda because they have very good products, the Whitelines are much more beefed up. The Steeda ones look like they may be a road noise / vibration nightmare..................