Installing brakes, I have a couple questions
#1
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Installing brakes, I have a couple questions
I got my brakes and I am now ready to install:
-rotorpros drilled / slotted rotors front and rear
-Hawk pads front and rear
-SS brake lines
-high temp brake fluid
Questions I have are, how do know you have flushed the old brake fluid out and the new stuff is now throughout all the brake lines? How much brake fluid will it take? I assume you start at the rear brakes and then do the front. Also, I have the rear caliper piston reseting tool. Which direction do you turn the caliper piston to drive it back in, any special tricks I should know?
After these get done, the SHR louvers are next![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Thanks,
-rotorpros drilled / slotted rotors front and rear
-Hawk pads front and rear
-SS brake lines
-high temp brake fluid
Questions I have are, how do know you have flushed the old brake fluid out and the new stuff is now throughout all the brake lines? How much brake fluid will it take? I assume you start at the rear brakes and then do the front. Also, I have the rear caliper piston reseting tool. Which direction do you turn the caliper piston to drive it back in, any special tricks I should know?
After these get done, the SHR louvers are next
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Thanks,
#2
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I got my brakes and I am now ready to install:
-rotorpros drilled / slotted rotors front and rear
-Hawk pads front and rear
-SS brake lines
-high temp brake fluid
Questions I have are, how do know you have flushed the old brake fluid out and the new stuff is now throughout all the brake lines? How much brake fluid will it take? I assume you start at the rear brakes and then do the front. Also, I have the rear caliper piston reseting tool. Which direction do you turn the caliper piston to drive it back in, any special tricks I should know?
After these get done, the SHR louvers are next![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Thanks,
-rotorpros drilled / slotted rotors front and rear
-Hawk pads front and rear
-SS brake lines
-high temp brake fluid
Questions I have are, how do know you have flushed the old brake fluid out and the new stuff is now throughout all the brake lines? How much brake fluid will it take? I assume you start at the rear brakes and then do the front. Also, I have the rear caliper piston reseting tool. Which direction do you turn the caliper piston to drive it back in, any special tricks I should know?
After these get done, the SHR louvers are next
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Thanks,
I would say you will need at least 20 ounces of brake fluid. That should be enough to flush the whole system and make sure it is bleed well. More is probably better. I like to get several smaller bottles just in case I don't need it, I will still have a sealed bottle on standby. Not a good idea to use brake fluid that has been open to air for too long, it likes to absorb water.
Yes, when bleeding, always good to start from the farthest brake opening and work your way to the master cylinder, so start with the passenger rear.
The caliper tool works as righty tight, left loosey, so if you are driving it in, should be clockwise rotation. I got a Ford tool from a Pep Boys, and it didn't work, had to go back and get the "Toyota" one, which fit fine. Weird.
I would suggest getting four jack stands and take all the tires off at one time, that way you'll be able to bleed the whole system pretty easily once you're done getting everything put on. I went ahead and painted my calipers while they were off. Actuallly, I put on new rear springs, new wheels and tires, and a panhard bar while they were off.
Have fun, it's not too tough, just time consuming.
Last edited by Hatchman; 3/9/08 at 09:31 AM.
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Thanks, I am planning on doing it in the driveway with all four wheels off so that I can get under the car with a pressure washer to clean up the crap from driving it through this winter. I have the calipers already painted so that is done. Normally I would do this in the garage, warm and dry with tunes on hand, but I don't thing pressure washine is going to work well indoors!
#4
Use the "search," Luke! Seriously, I did a writeup last year on exactly what you're doing. You can find it HERE. This is not an overly difficult task, and yes, you can pretty easily tell when you get the fluid pushed through, it'll change from a dirty yellow to a pale amber. Get the Earls Solo Bleeders and a "bleeder buddy," and the flush will take you 30 minutes for all four corners, just MAKE SURE that the master cylinder reservoir does NOT go dry!
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Use the "search," Luke! Seriously, I did a writeup last year on exactly what you're doing. You can find it HERE. This is not an overly difficult task, and yes, you can pretty easily tell when you get the fluid pushed through, it'll change from a dirty yellow to a pale amber. Get the Earls Solo Bleeders and a "bleeder buddy," and the flush will take you 30 minutes for all four corners, just MAKE SURE that the master cylinder reservoir does NOT go dry!
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